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#21 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 09:44 PM

Wow, £250 I offered seems way cheap if that's what they're worth less duty and shipping :D

Are yours brand new mr bargi

#22 ghand

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 09:50 PM

Without under tray you would effect dynamics and rear of clam would be floppy

Bull :lol: I could get some of my old motors to 140 ish with no floor pan. ok shorten it , just leave the rear 12 inch without the pan to drag the heat out without affecting the " dynamics" to much

#23 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 09:52 PM

Without under tray you would effect dynamics and rear of clam would be floppy

Bull :lol: I could get some of my old motors to 140 ish with no floor pan. ok shorten it , just leave the rear 12 inch without the pan to drag the heat out without affecting the " dynamics" to much
We're you old cars metal body

#24 ghand

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 09:59 PM

Without under tray you would effect dynamics and rear of clam would be floppy

Bull :lol: I could get some of my old motors to 140 ish with no floor pan. ok shorten it , just leave the rear 12 inch without the pan to drag the heat out without affecting the " dynamics" to much
We're you old cars metal body
Yes but a mate had a tweaked 3.0 L Scimitar that would knock on without going floppy , I think that's crap.maybe at silly high speeds but most VX s don't see much over 140 ish for long and if old 1970s crap fibreglass cars could cope the VX will. .

Edited by ghand, 13 August 2013 - 10:05 PM.


#25 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:15 AM

Just found this statement from winstar

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]The cooling flow on the NA, with all the important hot bits at the back of the engine, works by flowing up through the NACA ducts over the engine and out of the top vents. Which is why when people space their diffuser they short circuit this and actually incrrease the temps in the exhaust and gearbox area. [/color]

 



#26 oakmere

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:38 AM

A couple of things. I don't thing you can just drop any Wiseco piston in all of them require a rebore I am not sure why? Also I think your over heating is water circuit related. Did you fit a new radiator when you fitted the CC? It may be worth flushing the whole system when you change the thermostat. Dose the CC water get very hot as well? The Ducts will be important as these provide most the cooling air for the engine.

#27 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:44 AM

Changed both rads when I did SC CC water has only ever got warm never really hot enough that I couldn't put finger in

#28 drunknmunky

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:44 AM

I ran without an undertray for a while (purely because a ham handed 'mechanic' didn't put it on right, and it came off at about 90 odd!) fortunately doing no damage. It did seem a lot more twitchy at the high end without it.

#29 oakmere

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:48 AM

The systems can trap air though I have never had this issue. Your drive is steep, have you got the car hot then with nose up then down bleed the system?

#30 D3YMO

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:51 AM

Chill...if you want to buy a set of them as per the eBay link:

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6f3be672

 

 

I will get a set at the same time, could reduce shipping costs



#31 ghand

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:55 AM

Just found this statement from winstar
 
[color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica;"]The cooling flow on the NA, with all the important hot bits at the back of the engine, works by flowing up through the NACA ducts over the engine and out of the top vents. Which is why when people space their diffuser they short circuit this and actually incrrease the temps in the exhaust and gearbox area. [/color][/font]
 

I ran without the floor pan for a few days while waiting for some parts to arrive never noticed any difference. But did not get up to high speeds 60/70 only. I can't see it being a problem. I don't think all the early Lotus had them and plenty of other rear engined plastic car don't bother but they are fitted for a reason I suppose.

#32 techieboy

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 10:57 AM

A couple of things. I don't thing you can just drop any Wiseco piston in all of them require a rebore I am not sure why?

Any existing cylinder bore wear issues aside, the Wiseco's (because they use a low silicon alloy that expands with heat) need to run larger piston to cylinder clearances than standard (as well as considerably larger ring gaps), to allow for the expansion. Part of the issue I had with my first uprated engine was down to running them with near standard clearances thanks to the engine place not reading the spec sheet (or ignoring it). That and some bore wash meant the rings never bedded-in properly and led to huge oil consumption and death at Silverstone in something like 1500 miles. Expensive lesson. On the bright side, despite some of the big end bearings resembling rizzla papers after being spun and the pistons being more oval than round by the time I'd driven home (well I figured it was fcuked, so might as well see how far I got :D ) the Eagle rods held together. Apart from some blue'ing from the heat on one of them, they were fine and went on to fight for another day in a different car.

#33 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:01 AM

The systems can trap air though I have never had this issue. Your drive is steep, have you got the car hot then with nose up then down bleed the system?

Yes im confident there is no air in the system, as you said i bled it on my drive which very steep, ive also done 2 track days since changing the header tank and think this would of bought any other air out..



#34 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:04 AM

Chill...if you want to buy a set of them as per the eBay link:

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6f3be672

 

 

I will get a set at the same time, could reduce shipping costs

 

when are you planning on getting yours



#35 Thealastair34

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:10 AM

jesus one of my rods was that much 

 

wish my engine parts were cheaper 


Edited by Thealastair34, 14 August 2013 - 11:10 AM.


#36 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:19 AM

I have just had a thought please dont shoot me down,

do you thing re introducing the PCV opening would help with cooling, because the engine would be able to breathe better.???

 

 



#37 A-F_20

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:43 AM

My temps have been steady as a rock since my conversion, in fact although the car gets hotter quicker it seems better than as an NA - I can't really understand how your car could be so different to mine - it must be connected some how to the cooling system.

 



#38 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:49 AM

My temps have been steady as a rock since my conversion, in fact although the car gets hotter quicker it seems better than as an NA - I can't really understand how your car could be so different to mine - it must be connected some how to the cooling system.

 

 

Are you running a rich courtenay map or dutch ecu software



#39 2deano5

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:50 AM

DId I read somewhere you did not have any ducts in your undertray?



#40 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 11:51 AM

DId I read somewhere you did not have any ducts in your undertray?

They will be back in this weekend




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