159 replies to this topic

[2deano5]

Good that would be my first thing to change, without them the amount of fresh 'COOL' air going into the engine bay must be minimal.

[D3YMO]

 

Chill...if you want to buy a set of them as per the eBay link:

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6f3be672

 

 

I will get a set at the same time, could reduce shipping costs

 

when are you planning on getting yours

 

 

not got a firm date in mind tbh, just want to get everything done before i put the car back on the road next year

 

im buying things as group buys, discounts etc come along rather than specific order to save me some dollar

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I want to do the rods over winter, Might be worth putting feelers out in a group buy

[2deano5]

Stop talking about rods! I am already in conversation with Neil over things like this and you are making me want to spend more money

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Stop talking about rods! I am already in conversation with Neil over things like this and you are making me want to spend more money

You should try having to turn engine down, That really gets on your wick

[D3YMO]

Winter is probably realistic to start on upgrading the internals...

 

Im looking at getting all the bits sorted so if you or anyone is looking at buying the following let me know  

Cams, Rods, Pistons, Valves and Spings, Pulleys, ProAlloy Fuel Tank, Gaskets, ARP Bolts, Injectors, CMS Clutch and Lightened Flywheel

 

O and the dutch software, but that may be Feb time

Edited by D3YMO, 14 August 2013 - 12:05 PM.

[2deano5]

Id be interested in; 

Cams, Rods, Pistons, Valves and Spings, Pulleys, ProAlloy Fuel Tank [color=#ff0000;]got[/color], Gaskets, ARP Bolts, Injectors, CMS Clutch and Lightened Flywheel

 

O and the dutch software [color=#ff0000;]got[/color], but that may be Feb time

 

[sford]

If you search on ebay you can find naca ducts in pretty much any size you can imagine. You can fit larger ones to the under tray to increase the airflow over the engine and out of the vents at the top. Just be careful on the clearance between the undertray and the bottom of the engine/gearbox.

[D3YMO]

 

Id be interested in; 

Cams, Rods, Pistons, Valves and Spings, Pulleys, ProAlloy Fuel Tank [color=#ff0000;]got[/color], Gaskets, ARP Bolts, Injectors, CMS Clutch and Lightened Flywheel

 

O and the dutch software [color=#ff0000;]got[/color], but that may be Feb time

 

 

 

i reckon we will be able to get 3-5 people interested in each of the components...so should get some discounts

 

we need a leader to organise lol

Edited by D3YMO, 14 August 2013 - 12:31 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

 [color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica;"]
Id be interested in; [/color][/font][color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica;"]
Cams, Rods, Pistons, Valves and Spings, Pulleys, [/color]ProAlloy Fuel Tank [color=#ff0000;]got[/color][/font], Gaskets, ARP Bolts, Injectors, CMS Clutch and Lightened Flywheel[color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica;"]
 [/color][/font][color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica;"]
O and the dutch software [color=#ff0000;]got[/color], but that may be Feb time[/color][/font]
 
 

 
i reckon we will be able to get 3-5 people interested in each of the components...so should get some discounts
 
we need a leader to organise lol

I vote you deymo

[D3YMO]

i dont know enough about where to get certain parts etc - if someone can send me some links and phone numbers i dont mind doing it

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

If you look at front of cars here can you see the turbulent air is massive near rads I no this isn't a vx

[Rosssco]

Get the pistons at the same time. It's false economy to only get the rods given the work involved.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6f3be672

 

 

As above, you need a rebore for these pistons.. That of course means removing the complete engine, stripping and rebuilding..

 

While your there, you "may aswell" get the head ported (limited by the head material I understand?), replace the clutch, lighten the flywheel, remove the balancers.

 

If I was going down this route (and using the OBDT upgrade), I'd rather pick up a used B207 / Z20NET (yep, that old chestnut) and stick with a standard, but stronger, lighter bottom end, improved head material with better exhaust valves, piston cooling jets, larger sump. Still remove the balancers and lighten the flywheel. You can also optimise the head porting (specifically the exhaust ports). 

 

So in summary, it would only make sense to me to rebuild a Z22SE with such a spec if you were aiming for well over 300 bhp. Oh and then you'll need cams + valve springs etc etc.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I'm only aiming for 300 ish bhp so im only doing rods, I'm only going to rev to 7000 rpm as the charger becomes more uneconomical Going to try and get there on my 2.5 tullett but will need a manifold at least

[techieboy]

I'm only aiming for 300 ish bhp so im only doing rods,

Straight from one danger zone, into another. If you're going to do it, do it properly and fit lower compression pistons suitable for forced induction, so the ignition doesn't have to be retarded as much. That'll also help your paranoia and give you the side benefit of less heat being produced as well.

[slindborg]

if thats 300bhp at the flywheel and the pistons are only good fro 300bhp then they will be seeing atlest 320bhp!!!! and therefore need replacing.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Spoil sports What about the lack of direct air flow to the front of rads

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Would the top piston be most suitable for SC cars

[fezzasus]

Spoil sports What about the lack of direct air flow to the front of rads

 

area of high pressure (front of car) to area of low pressure (top of bonnet)? doesn't sound like an issue with airflow, if anything the design encourages it. 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Spoil sports What about the lack of direct air flow to the front of rads

  area of high pressure (front of car) to area of low pressure (top of bonnet)? doesn't sound like an issue with airflow, if anything the design encourages it. 

What about pink area under rad