61 replies to this topic

[The Batman]

Gorgous colour.... Hhnmmmmmm tempting!

[Heypacha]

Petrol blue Mettalic - Petrolblau met

 

Glasurit topcoat Line 55

 

Paint code: 20M 69L/77U - Standard (Not dirtier)

 

Glasurit clearcoat HS multi clear 

 

Old-school paint baking

 

[vocky]

looks       

[Wreelybro]

Great colour good work so far keep it up!

[fezzasus]

Lovely colour, can't wait to see the rest of the progress.

[Nev]

Impressive effort dude, well done, I can't imagine how many hours are going into the project

Edited by Nev, 13 September 2013 - 02:08 PM.

[Heypacha]

Thanks guys.

[Bumblebee]

Nice colour and different too!

[Rickwoo118]

Nice to see it coming together. Can't wait to see he pics of it finished.

[Heypacha]

I took a month to repair the mechanical parts of the car. The front subframe was easily repaired, the rear subframe had to be replaced. A used black subframe was found in Kosovo from a crashed and dismantled car. 

Most of the parts were ordered from eliseparts:

Lotus wishbone bushes

Castor and camber shims and washers

Silicon radiator hoses

Vibra engine mounts.

Pagid 4-2 pads.

 

 Quaife LSD and K&N intake kit was ordered from Courtenay sport. The gearbox cables couldn't be bought from eliseparts, I think they only had them for cars with toyota engines  so in the end custom cables were made. The shift mechanism on the gearbox was sloppy and in bad shape and had to be repaired. 

We separated the engine and gearbox, took out the diff, and started putting in the new quaife diff. With the diff two new bearings were bought, but the shims that were holding the old diff were with the incorrect thickness. It took us a couple of days before correct shims for the diff were found and the diff could be finally installed. We put Motul 300v 75w-90 oil in the gearbox and 300v mk.2 5W-40 in the engine. I've used Motul 300v for more than 10 years on all my cars and was always very satisfied with that oil. The only downside is that it's shelf life is very short, after a year and a half the oil starts separating. It leaves a thick gooey substance at the bottom and the rest of the oil becomes too thin. By cooking it and shaking it it will go back to normal, but I don't think it I would want that kind of oil in my car. So before you buy Motul 300v check the date of production. Don't know if the new 300v mk.2 (ester core) has the same problem. This is only for the engine oil, the gearbox oils don't have that problem.

 

Edited by Heypacha, 16 September 2013 - 01:14 PM.

[smiley]

elise-shop.com has replacement gearcables for vx220, and ships internationally.

 

Project looking good

[fezzasus]

[color=rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Arial;font-size:medium;]I've used Motul 300v for more than 10 years on all my cars and was always very satisfied with that oil. The only downside is that it's shelf life is very short, after a year and a half the oil starts separating. It leaves a thick gooey substance at the bottom and the rest of the oil becomes too thin. By cooking it and shaking it it will go back to normal, but I don't think it I would want that kind of oil in my car. So before you buy Motul 300v check the date of production. Don't know if the new 300v mk.2 (ester core) has the same problem. [/color]

 

My company developed that oil, firstly industry practice only monitors stability for 12 months and mostly for the initial 12 weeks after blending. Using anything older than 12 months is not advised. The new 300v is completely new and uses very different additive technology, it does not have the same problem.

[Heypacha]

 

[color=rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Arial;font-size:medium;]I've used Motul 300v for more than 10 years on all my cars and was always very satisfied with that oil. The only downside is that it's shelf life is very short, after a year and a half the oil starts separating. It leaves a thick gooey substance at the bottom and the rest of the oil becomes too thin. By cooking it and shaking it it will go back to normal, but I don't think it I would want that kind of oil in my car. So before you buy Motul 300v check the date of production. Don't know if the new 300v mk.2 (ester core) has the same problem. [/color]

 

My company developed that oil, firstly industry practice only monitors stability for 12 months and mostly for the initial 12 weeks after blending. Using anything older than 12 months is not advised. The new 300v is completely new and uses very different additive technology, it does not have the same problem.

 

 

 

Cool. That's great to know. I tried extensively searching for info on the new 300v ester core oil, but there is very little info on the web. It's too new. Do you know if it will work with older engines from the 80's like the s14(m3 e30) and s38(m5) from bmw and Sierra cosworth YB  engines?

The old formula worked very good, but I don't know for certain if the new one is compatible with high horsepower engines that are made to run on leaded fuel.

[Heypacha]

elise-shop.com has replacement gearcables for vx220, and ships internationally.

 

Project looking good

 

Thanks Smiley. I'm planning to order the next batch of parts from them. Maybe I'll surprise myself with 46 Nitrons.

[Aerodynamic]

I thought about this with a LSD myself yesterday, is the LSD effecting the handeling of the corners anything? That it will improve the acceleration out of corners that I know. but what about the handeling of the car comming in to the corners, mid corners and out of the corners?! Is there any difference in this with and without LSD. Will the rear be more loose or more planted.

 

Except this, your car looks fantastic and really nice work your doing there.

 

BR, Per

 

 

 

I took a month to repair the mechanical parts of the car. The front subframe was easily repaired, the rear subframe had to be replaced. A used black subframe was found in Kosovo from a crashed and dismantled car. 

Most of the parts were ordered from eliseparts:

Lotus wishbone bushes

Castor and camber shims and washers

Silicon radiator hoses

Vibra engine mounts.

Pagid 4-2 pads.

 

 Quaife LSD and K&N intake kit was ordered from Courtenay sport. The gearbox cables couldn't be bought from eliseparts, I think they only had them for cars with toyota engines  so in the end custom cables were made. The shift mechanism on the gearbox was sloppy and in bad shape and had to be repaired. 

We separated the engine and gearbox, took out the diff, and started putting in the new quaife diff. With the diff two new bearings were bought, but the shims that were holding the old diff were with the incorrect thickness. It took us a couple of days before correct shims for the diff were found and the diff could be finally installed. We put Motul 300v 75w-90 oil in the gearbox and 300v mk.2 5W-40 in the engine. I've used Motul 300v for more than 10 years on all my cars and was always very satisfied with that oil. The only downside is that it's shelf life is very short, after a year and a half the oil starts separating. It leaves a thick gooey substance at the bottom and the rest of the oil becomes too thin. By cooking it and shaking it it will go back to normal, but I don't think it I would want that kind of oil in my car. So before you buy Motul 300v check the date of production. Don't know if the new 300v mk.2 (ester core) has the same problem. This is only for the engine oil, the gearbox oils don't have that problem.

 

 

 

[Ormes]

Nice project - great work

[fezzasus]

 

 

[color=rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Arial;font-size:medium;]I've used Motul 300v for more than 10 years on all my cars and was always very satisfied with that oil. The only downside is that it's shelf life is very short, after a year and a half the oil starts separating. It leaves a thick gooey substance at the bottom and the rest of the oil becomes too thin. By cooking it and shaking it it will go back to normal, but I don't think it I would want that kind of oil in my car. So before you buy Motul 300v check the date of production. Don't know if the new 300v mk.2 (ester core) has the same problem. [/color]

 

My company developed that oil, firstly industry practice only monitors stability for 12 months and mostly for the initial 12 weeks after blending. Using anything older than 12 months is not advised. The new 300v is completely new and uses very different additive technology, it does not have the same problem.

 

 

 

Cool. That's great to know. I tried extensively searching for info on the new 300v ester core oil, but there is very little info on the web. It's too new. Do you know if it will work with older engines from the 80's like the s14(m3 e30) and s38(m5) from bmw and Sierra cosworth YB  engines?

The old formula worked very good, but I don't know for certain if the new one is compatible with high horsepower engines that are made to run on leaded fuel.

 

It's not tested on older engines, but neither are any other oils. There's no reason why it wouldn't work. Generally newer formulations are always better than older as they are tested against more severe limits.

[Heypacha]

 

 

 

[color=rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Arial;font-size:medium;]I've used Motul 300v for more than 10 years on all my cars and was always very satisfied with that oil. The only downside is that it's shelf life is very short, after a year and a half the oil starts separating. It leaves a thick gooey substance at the bottom and the rest of the oil becomes too thin. By cooking it and shaking it it will go back to normal, but I don't think it I would want that kind of oil in my car. So before you buy Motul 300v check the date of production. Don't know if the new 300v mk.2 (ester core) has the same problem. [/color]

 

My company developed that oil, firstly industry practice only monitors stability for 12 months and mostly for the initial 12 weeks after blending. Using anything older than 12 months is not advised. The new 300v is completely new and uses very different additive technology, it does not have the same problem.

 

 

 

Cool. That's great to know. I tried extensively searching for info on the new 300v ester core oil, but there is very little info on the web. It's too new. Do you know if it will work with older engines from the 80's like the s14(m3 e30) and s38(m5) from bmw and Sierra cosworth YB  engines?

The old formula worked very good, but I don't know for certain if the new one is compatible with high horsepower engines that are made to run on leaded fuel.

 

It's not tested on older engines, but neither are any other oils. There's no reason why it wouldn't work. Generally newer formulations are always better than older as they are tested against more severe limits.

 

 

Thanks Fezzasus. Great to know that.

[Heypacha]

Thanks Aerodynamic. Sadly I drove the car for an hour before the restoration, so I'm not really the right person to compare the handling with or without an LSD. In theory if you drive the car on track perfectly there won't be any difference in lap times with or without a LSD. The handling gurus at Lotus thinks that you don't need an LSD for everyday driving and that it corrupts the handling by generating understeer, but most of the Lotus racecars have a LSD. The problem arrises when you reach the limit of adhesion of the rear tires, without an LSD the car is much more difficult to control and the oversteer is much more abrupt. Yes, with LSD it will generate more understeer in some corners, but the car should be very easy to control on the limit and be able to play with the balance of the car. You could setup the car to be more loose and more fun and still handle like an Exige.

I think it's a personal preference, if your wan't to play more with your car then get an LSD, if you want to go through perfectly every corner every time you don't need an LSD.

This is just my personal opinion and I may be wrong on this one. The speedster in my first midship car and I have very little experience with it.

I think that on this forum there are more knowledgeable drivers with much more experience than me that can help you with the LSD issue. You can also try the elise forums. 

 

Lotus and LSD link:

http://www.youtube.c...YM5oAasA#t=3587

 

 

 

I thought about this with a LSD myself yesterday, is the LSD effecting the handeling of the corners anything? That it will improve the acceleration out of corners that I know. but what about the handeling of the car comming in to the corners, mid corners and out of the corners?! Is there any difference in this with and without LSD. Will the rear be more loose or more planted.

 

Except this, your car looks fantastic and really nice work your doing there.

 

BR, Per

 

 

 

I took a month to repair the mechanical parts of the car. The front subframe was easily repaired, the rear subframe had to be replaced. A used black subframe was found in Kosovo from a crashed and dismantled car. 

Most of the parts were ordered from eliseparts:

Lotus wishbone bushes

Castor and camber shims and washers

Silicon radiator hoses

Vibra engine mounts.

Pagid 4-2 pads.

 

 Quaife LSD and K&N intake kit was ordered from Courtenay sport. The gearbox cables couldn't be bought from eliseparts, I think they only had them for cars with toyota engines  so in the end custom cables were made. The shift mechanism on the gearbox was sloppy and in bad shape and had to be repaired. 

We separated the engine and gearbox, took out the diff, and started putting in the new quaife diff. With the diff two new bearings were bought, but the shims that were holding the old diff were with the incorrect thickness. It took us a couple of days before correct shims for the diff were found and the diff could be finally installed. We put Motul 300v 75w-90 oil in the gearbox and 300v mk.2 5W-40 in the engine. I've used Motul 300v for more than 10 years on all my cars and was always very satisfied with that oil. The only downside is that it's shelf life is very short, after a year and a half the oil starts separating. It leaves a thick gooey substance at the bottom and the rest of the oil becomes too thin. By cooking it and shaking it it will go back to normal, but I don't think it I would want that kind of oil in my car. So before you buy Motul 300v check the date of production. Don't know if the new 300v mk.2 (ester core) has the same problem. This is only for the engine oil, the gearbox oils don't have that problem.

 

 

 

 

[Heypacha]

I've jet to source a windscreen for the speedster. None of the glass suppliers can source me one and the Opel dealers can't order it. They are not authorised to bring any parts for the speedster, so I'm left ordering parts from another country and that's a real pain in the ass.I was quoted 2000 euros for a lotus windshield in Athens and 250 pounds in UK from heatedwindscreen.co.uk in Tamworth UK. The problem with the heatedwindscreen is transport. It cost 350 pounds to ship it to Skopje and on top of that I have to pay around 40% customs and tax on the windshield and shipping. Thats around 950 euros(800GBP). I could arrange transport myself, but nobody will guarantee that I will get a complete windscreen. Finally I found a Opel dealer in Skopje that could get me a new windscreen for 600 euros, sadly the guy that makes the orders went on holiday the day I went to buy the screen. When he returned he told me that he was wrong and they can't order it, 3 weeks lost in total. I could also make a custom windscreen here for 300 euros (every additional one will cost me 150 euros), but I'm not sure of the quality of final product. I'll have to buy it and see.