33 replies to this topic

[vocky]

I also notice that peak power has lowered with my 2.5 engine, but maximum safe rpm is still 7525 so I really don't notice the missing 300rpm than before.

 

However the huge improvement in torque more than makes up for the slightly reduced max rpm, I still have to remind myself that it's only a NA not a SC or turbo. After driving an Audi R8 v8 I can honestly say my NA is quicker

 

So for me a bigger cc engine was the right choice, but would I do it again, probably not. The reason being it was triple the cost of a 2.2 bottom end.

[siztenboots]

 

 

anyone know about the 2.4L in the Opel Antara / Chevvy captiva ?

same engine family as the z22se, I have a crank from a chevvy 2.4 in mine

 

So no good for the z20let engine family.

 

 

There is a 2.4L cast iron used by Chevvy in their European models, ie. Malibu. 

 

I think its the 2.4l from Holden.

 

Unsure how compatible it is.

[cs_]

The Klasen 2.2 is a NA block with 6mm strong cylinder walls btw., no one really knows for sure where it's from, but we suspect it to have its origin in some engine that's been sold in australia in  Holden Vectra and some Holden SUV. It's been modified for turbo just by drilling a hole sideways at the bottom of the block and glueing a gland into it for oil return hose. In any other way it's mechanically compatible to the OEM Z20LET block. Apart from the block height, which is almost 10mm higher. Why you have to alter the downpipe and any part that reaches up to the hood e.g. the top hat.

Edited by cs_, 07 September 2013 - 10:07 AM.

[Nev]

The Klasen 2.2 is a NA block with 6mm strong cylinder walls btw., no one really knows for sure where it's from, but we suspect it to have its origin in some engine that's been sold in australia in  Holden Vectra and some Holden SUV. It's been modified for turbo just by drilling a hole sideways at the bottom of the block and glueing a gland into it for oil return hose. In any other way it's mechanically compatible to the OEM Z20LET block. Apart from the block height, which is almost 10mm higher. Why you have to alter the downpipe and any part that reaches up to the hood e.g. the top hat.

 

LOL, "don't know where the block was from", quite a bold decision to use it then

 

It's interesting to see how these parts are interchangeable. Specifically that you've used a 2.2 block with liners. Do you happen to know what power/torque the liners cans theoretically cope with please and who made them and who installed them.

Edited by Nev, 07 September 2013 - 12:04 PM.

[cs_]

Do not understand the meaning of "liners"?

 

This is NO Z22SE block. It's cast iron and almost identically to the Z20LET block, only thicker cylinder walls and no OEM oil return. So why should I bother where Klasen gets the blocks from? He uses this block in his Opel Astra dragracer. Think it will do the job.

[siztenboots]

I think there is some confusion between chain driven ally block Z22SE and the cam belt cast iron block Z22XE

 

Having looked at the head gasket, ASTRA L4 2.4 146 X24SFD 16V DOHC 2405CC 87.5MM 3.445 , this is exactly the same as a z20let

 

http://www.tfvictor....il/jc-1230.html

 

[Nev]

By liners I meant "cylinder liners". I have just re-read what you posted earlier and realise I misinterpreted what you wrote, I now understand that you are using a block with cast in "integral" cylinder bores.

 

Is the crank timing and sensor etc exactly the same on this engine block to the Z20LET? ie, are any other changes required (apart from drilling the turbo oil drain into it)? Does it have oil squirters?

 

This is an interesting topic for me as I am considering building a new bottom end for myself this winter. Would you be able to get the name/part number of the block or engine it came out of please?

 

In theory as I will have stand alone ECU soon I could build an NA engine based on this block and swap it for my turbo engine for a while. Crazy stuff. Then again I could also go down the Saab engine block route. Too many choices... arghh !

Edited by Nev, 07 September 2013 - 01:18 PM.

[cs_]

Is the crank timing and sensor etc exactly the same on this engine block to the Z20LET? ie, are any other changes required (apart from drilling the turbo oil drain into it)? Does it have oil squirters?

It's all the same. You need a longer timing belt of course, e.g. Gates Powergrip 5461XS, 171 Teeth x 24 mm.

 

The squirters are the newest from Klasen, he mounted them. The engine has been bought ready-to-run from Klasen. With forged pistons from JE, steel rods, ARP screws etc.

[siztenboots]

had a good think about this over the weekend and decided not to pursue it further as I would prefer to go with a B234R , with its 90mm stroke and bore , plus the B235R T7 much better head.

[Nev]

had a good think about this over the weekend and decided not to pursue it further as I would prefer to go with a B234R , with its 90mm stroke and bore , plus the B235R T7 much better head.

 

The extra 0.3 Ltrs of that engine will help

[siztenboots]

the 90mm stroke keeps the piston speeds to more reasonable rates but still plenty of rev headroom ( 24m/s@8000 ), its quite a tall engine so the rod ratio is okay.

 

Saab B234 32mm in /29mm exh , quite a few swap to Volvo valves 34mm in and 32mm exh , although thats more work and costs.

 

[Nev]

Hmm, 32mm diameter inlet valves is bloody small, even the OEM Z20LET ones are 35.10 mm.

 

I wonder what diameter the inlet valves on 235R head are - do you happen to know ?

[siztenboots]

I thought zlet's had 29mm inlet

[Nev]

Hmm, I just looked it up online and the big Excel sheet that I have cut and pasted it from is wrong, so disregard my comments above - sorry !

Edited by Nev, 10 September 2013 - 01:16 PM.