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Bare Racing`s Opel Speedster 2.2


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#21 BAre

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 10:12 AM

The car run well on the street as well. Little happend under 5000 rpm, so the Power band was to narrow even with 7400 rpm limit. The powercurve just kept going 45 degree up to the right :tt:

 

The rod bearings need mor clerance to og over 7000 rpm. Mabye lightwight "solid" balancer in front dont help either......Next rpm engine will have ATI super damper.

 

Still 140 HP/liter has to be very good on a orginal engine bottom (piston/rods)



#22 BAre

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Posted 06 May 2014 - 11:14 AM

The Speedster now have a new hart. Original 2.2 with 16K miles. I bought Peters OBD tuner and mounted the 252 degree Comcams with my hommade racing exhaust. The result is 170 Hp and 235 Nm in a wide powerband....over 200 Nm between 3000-6000 rpm :tt:



#23 Sticky

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Posted 06 May 2014 - 11:23 AM

Is this a different car to the one you are quoting 290bhp for in the other thread?



#24 BAre

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Posted 06 May 2014 - 07:26 PM

No. The 292 Hp engine is no more alive, so I its the same car With New "OEM" engine at this time. The ITB engine is to be rebuildt for NeXT season.

 

The goal is to make the "OEM" NA engine the moste powerful as well :happy:


Edited by BAre, 06 May 2014 - 07:29 PM.


#25 Captain Vimes

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Posted 06 May 2014 - 08:14 PM

The Speedster now have a new hart. Original 2.2 with 16K miles. I bought Peters OBD tuner and mounted the 252 degree Comcams with my hommade racing exhaust. The result is 170 Hp and 235 Nm in a wide powerband....over 200 Nm between 3000-6000 rpm :tt:

Any mods on the intake side? Still on 2.2 inlet and standard air box? Are the power figures from the obd software or a dyno? Be interested in the graph.

#26 Sticky

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Posted 06 May 2014 - 08:23 PM

No. The 292 Hp engine is no more alive, so I its the same car With New "OEM" engine at this time. The ITB engine is to be rebuildt for NeXT season.

 

The goal is to make the "OEM" NA engine the moste powerful as well :happy:

Have you solved the issues that caused the failure of the 292 hp engine?



#27 BAre

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 08:07 AM

 

The Speedster now have a new hart. Original 2.2 with 16K miles. I bought Peters OBD tuner and mounted the 252 degree Comcams with my hommade racing exhaust. The result is 170 Hp and 235 Nm in a wide powerband....over 200 Nm between 3000-6000 rpm :tt:

Any mods on the intake side? Still on 2.2 inlet and standard air box? Are the power figures from the obd software or a dyno? Be interested in the graph.

 

 

The intake side is still original except for ITG enclosed fresh air intake with very good duckting to leave hot air from engine departement out. The plan is to weld my own intake for later turbo intake usage on my other racing Speedster. I may try a LSJ throttle bodie as well.

 

I can show the graph from the OBD tuner and from the roling road/dynapack. I dont have a updated graph after changing the exhaust manifold to a racing hedder. With OEM exhaust manifold the car made 140 Hp on the hub and 159 HP (estimated flywheel) in the power tester in the OBD Tuner. With fuel learning and the racing hedder the engine made 168-173 Hp on the OBD Tuner power tester.

 

I will test and fine tune the fueltable on the Dynapack once more before the new inlet manifold is mounted.

 

I use LC-1 wide band and several power runs to fintune the AFR over 2500 rpm. Under 2500 rpm I use the transient table and throttle response to make the car run well. I tested the Speedster in X-cross last weekend, and the engine is very responsive and have a good register compared to a OEM engine.



#28 BAre

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 08:12 AM

 

No. The 292 Hp engine is no more alive, so I its the same car With New "OEM" engine at this time. The ITB engine is to be rebuildt for NeXT season.

 

The goal is to make the "OEM" NA engine the moste powerful as well :happy:

Have you solved the issues that caused the failure of the 292 hp engine?

 

 

For my next ITB build the engine (rod and crank) bearings will have 5 hundred parts of a millimeter more clerance. The SFI aproved damper in front wil ensure no damaging vibrationes.

 

Thees two things will hopefully save the engine from premature failiure.

 

The OEM engine today will be tested with the damper



#29 Sticky

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 08:24 AM

 

 

No. The 292 Hp engine is no more alive, so I its the same car With New "OEM" engine at this time. The ITB engine is to be rebuildt for NeXT season.

 

The goal is to make the "OEM" NA engine the moste powerful as well :happy:

Have you solved the issues that caused the failure of the 292 hp engine?

 

 

For my next ITB build the engine (rod and crank) bearings will have 5 hundred parts of a millimeter more clerance. The SFI aproved damper in front wil ensure no damaging vibrationes.

 

Thees two things will hopefully save the engine from premature failiure.

 

The OEM engine today will be tested with the damper

 

What is the damper? Have you got a link?



#30 oakmere

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 07:57 PM

290 bhp should not kill an engine with forged internals. Were you still running the std rods and pistons?

#31 oakmere

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 08:04 PM

On your std engine build you will need a better inlet to improve power further. The 2.4l manifold is much better but I will be interested to see how you get on with a built manifold. Will you be using a tapered plenum chamber?

#32 BAre

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 07:52 AM

The 292 Hp engine was OEM internal...

 

Little change in plans for my NA project. Before I weld my own inlet I have a good friend that will let me try out his 2.4 plenum. Before mounting this,I will fintune the engine in roling road so I can find accurat power increase between the OEM manifold and the 2.4.

 

When welding my own plenum it will be made as good as its possible with tropets/cone inlet runners and tapered plenum.



#33 BAre

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 07:54 AM

 

 

 

No. The 292 Hp engine is no more alive, so I its the same car With New "OEM" engine at this time. The ITB engine is to be rebuildt for NeXT season.

 

The goal is to make the "OEM" NA engine the moste powerful as well :happy:

Have you solved the issues that caused the failure of the 292 hp engine?

 

 

For my next ITB build the engine (rod and crank) bearings will have 5 hundred parts of a millimeter more clerance. The SFI aproved damper in front wil ensure no damaging vibrationes.

 

Thees two things will hopefully save the engine from premature failiure.

 

The OEM engine today will be tested with the damper

 

What is the damper? Have you got a link?

 

Fluid harmonic balancer. Was not able to chare a link to Ebay, but if you go to Ebay.com and seek out : "ecotec + balancer", the one I bought will appear :-)



#34 fezzasus

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 08:17 AM

This? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item417a001485



#35 ginek

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 09:25 AM

Colleagues,

on the subject of dampers - I planned the same for my (hopefully soon) ITBed build, but this explanation caught my attention:

********** http://www.cobaltss....r-damper-45550/ ATI SUPER DAMPER This is my favorite topic...my expertise per say. Some of you may have read my other posts on this topic, so bear with me. I design crank dampers for a living and yes, they are in 99.9% of todays autos. Because of the piston firing order and the cylinder pressures required to rotate the crank at each cylinders incremental amount, we have a flywheel that has a designed inertia to keep the crank in rotation. The cylinder conditions mated with the rotating flywheel causes the crank to twist torsionally at a natural frequency. This frequency is present through the entire RPM range, but the amplitudes vary. The highest amplitudes of the vibration are what will destroy the crank and main bearings. The dampers are designed to target this frequency at the highest amplitude levels and split this peak into two peaks, thus reducing the overall amplitude and reducing the stress on the crank system. Now back to the ATI dampers. We have tested many of these dampers that are on the market to compete with some of our production line. The ATI dampers are made with rubber O-rings as the elastic element (damping material) which have failed all of out durability tests that the OEM's require us to pass before start of production. So again I will state that engines are designed for a certain mass-elastic system that are optimised for engine durability. Most aftermarket dampers and billet pulleys will greatly reduce the robustness of this system; however, there are some aftermarket dampers that have gone through the durability testing to perform up to OEM standards....and no there are not any for our engines. You can believe what I say or not, this is just FYI. ********** So, anyone with enough engineering theory reasonsing to oppose on what is written above? Anyone with longer term usage experience of using such damper on z22se?  



#36 techieboy

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 09:54 AM

I've never read anything good (other than the marketing sh!t) about the ATI dampers, especially as they apparently don't fit properly on the LSJ engine. Maybe this fluid filled damper is a safer bet than the ATI mechanical/non-fluid filled version but I'd stick with the OEM damper/pulley.

#37 BAre

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 10:49 AM

I used a solid aluminium balancer on the 292 Hp engine. An OEM would be far better.......and a SFI aproved fluid balancer can`t possibly be worse than an OEM made of rubber that is old and fabicated to operat arround it`s best arround 6500 rpm.

 

The fluid balancer adapt its balance capasity to the rpm so it will have a better performance regarding to rpm range. As for all high Hp performance produckts....things get worn over time, so will the fluid balancer. I have no problem using 300£ on a fluid balancer during rebuilding of the ITB engine.



#38 vocky

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 11:55 AM

I had my engines bottom end zero balanced, thats certainly worth spending the money on, an aftermarket balancer which may or may not do anything is another matter  :wacko:



#39 oakmere

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 07:13 PM

I take it you will be fitting forged internals on the new build? If not no modifications will stop them failing. Looking forward to seeing the plenum manifold. You can purchase a flange from level zero Motorsport in the US. The 2.4 inlet starts to build vacuum at high rpm when you get the engine above 190 bhp.

#40 BAre

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Posted 23 May 2014 - 08:46 AM

I have three Z22SE engines. The one up for NA tuning have original internals.

 

I bought an aluminium flang a year ago along with several runners. I ordered 4" bends and stright tube (three mm thick) for the plenum manifold last week, so hope I can start planing the welding during July.

 

The 2.4 plenum and throttle bodie is coming soon, so hope for testing within a month. :happy:






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