74 replies to this topic

[VXT Tim]

 

[siztenboots]

can you get them with left hand threads?

[JG]

I've had to change three ends on my EP kit. I've had to replace them so often i hold stock of right and left hand thread joints. They seem to get a bit of play very quickly especially after jimmy rode the curbs at anglesey , That resulted in two of them.

 

It is most certainly not a fit and forger kit.

 

However, i've not heard of many failures.

[ghand]

can you get them with left hand threads?

Just a type of washer, split to keep pressure on the nut to stop vibration from loosening it , so not handed, I used them in the past on stuff in work, the graph looks slightly biased a test on stud lock would have been interesting. Never seen anything come loose with stud lock on in 40 years, that's what's going on mine when I replace with standard. Rust seems to work well well had on the last one I did.

Edited by ghand, 02 November 2013 - 12:32 PM.

[ee601]

Yes, I was thinking some kind of stud lock - but how do you adjust in future then? Spring loaded washer with an extra nut sounds like a good idea.. So the spring presses the threads together, and if the original nut starts to undo then the spring presses even harder on the extra nut, increasing the forces on the threads for a stronger lock.. Would that be an idea worth trying?

[ghand]

Yes, I was thinking some kind of stud lock - but how do you adjust in future then? Spring loaded washer with an extra nut sounds like a good idea.. So the spring presses the threads together, and if the original nut starts to undo then the spring presses even harder on the extra nut, increasing the forces on the threads for a stronger lock.. Would that be an idea worth trying?

If and it's a big if they ever needed re adjusting, just crack and free off, re apply stud lock, adjust and re tighten. As stated earlier some VXs have done 100 k on originals with no problems, and with sticky tyre track use. Mine had an inner get noisy at 65 k now on 72 k with the other three originals still ok, so I will replace all the lot soon with standards and a dab of stud lock

[slindborg]

Nordlocks ARE handed as they have cams in the teeth to stop light loads from releasing them. No springs involved.

[ee601]

Car is mainly for track and being developed as we go, so "geo" will need redoing as changes are made. Suspension upgrade is on the cards when funds allow.. We've pretty conclusively isolated the problem to the inner locking nut being left loose. Can't prove anything, of course, but there seems no other explanation for the way it happened. Noticing that the lock nut had been paint marked, and the shock was paint marked too - but the mark was on the lower locking ring and the spring (??) rather than the two locking rings, which is completely useless of course. Looks like someone asked the work experience boy to do it.. A degree of incompetence seems to have been at work there. Strength of the toe links isn't an issue, and probably neither is the ability of the nuts to lock in solid. Just means we have to make sure it's undertray off and spanner check down there before each outing, and between each run initially... You live and learn - if you want something doing properly....

[Crabash]

I went on track after recent fitting of Spitfire toe links by a specialist we all know, was the same track day that SteveA killed a toe link on a uprated kit, (vid of it happening to him somewhere), which turned out to be the wrong stub end for his hub.

Anyway I noticed my car starting to feel a little light at the rear under power going through the second half of the chicane, followed by big oversteer at the hairpin on applying power. Having seen what happened to SteveA I pulled off to check it out, sure enough one lock nut had come loose. I re did all of them but I have had one come loose since, I think threadlock is not such a bad idea.

Is it possible that because there are 3 or 4 different materials in close proximity or in contact that heating and cooling could loosen them enough to turn.

[Pidgeon]

Has anyone fitted an aftermarket kit that has not caused additional problems?

[fiveoclock]

Has anyone fitted an aftermarket kit that has not caused additional problems?

 

I've got the EP kit on the race car, no problems all season, not replaced any ends, not come loose and no failures

[GeorgeBC]

Not sure if I bought the Elise shop or Elise parts kit but I've had them fitted for 18 months with no issues.

[Bargi]

Has anyone fitted an aftermarket kit that has not caused additional problems?

Olly at Phoenix Motorsport does a very nice kit with brace bar, although if you want it before next winter you'll need him to for it. I've been running it for 3 years and JJJ on his old VXR

[techieboy]

and JJJ on his old VXR

 

 

And that came almost totally undone at a Snetterton trackday under TonyVXR56's stewardsip.

[Crabash]

The lock nut coming loose caused excessive wear in the threads so I now need a new rod end and the hard point that screws in the end of the tube.

Edited by Crabash, 03 December 2013 - 05:38 PM.