793 replies to this topic

[cnrandall]

 

 

At the moment ive kept the boost pressure under the limit of what the head can traditionally lift, im not chasing numbers with loads of timing or pulling fuel, im only reving to 6600-6800rpm as long as I can keep the inlet temps and water temps at an acceptable level then the only thing I can see being a potential issue is rod strength......thats something that has never really been tested with these rods(turbotechnics) so its a suck it and see type of affair.

 

 

 

Its rarely boost pressure in itself that causes turbo engine failure.  Its normally run away temps followed by rampant detonation.  Keeping things cool in the back of an Elise isn't easy.

[turbotoaster]

true, hence talking to you about chargecooling setups, changing the lines and pump when I get paid, also im making a scoop off the roof, but im not sure which would be the most important thing to cool, either the air filter or blow the air onto the turbo.

 

My turbo inlet is on the drivers side, but the oil cooler is on the drivers side so i can send the air filter down there but its compromised by sharing the air.

 

Getting it to run around to the passenger side means a 180 bend over the top of the turbo and a long air duct, seems a more sensible solution, but would block me blowing air onto turbo area properly.

 

The other option is make an air filter box above the turbo taking the air from the duct and have the bottom open, that way when moving your blowing cool air onto the air filter and some of it goes past the air filter and hits the turbo area.......the bad thing about that might be your engine sucks more air that the duct provides so you again suck some warm air from the engine bay and also when stationary the hot air in the engine bay rises to heat up the air filter.

 

Making sure the cooling is sorted is the next task, but the air filter/turbo is the bit im not sure of yet

[Scuffers]

the point is i don't believe the 250 horsepower at the flanges K series with a turbo is going to last long enough to find out if the car actually works or not the k series is not renouned on for holding together 200 horsepower with all the expensive parts in the world put in it. the point i'm really getting it pierced if you were doing the same level of preparation i'm putting a standard k20 honda in it it would not be costing you £10k, but more to the point he would give you a reliable 200 + horse power at the hubs with a gearbox capable of dealing with it, for what its worth i have seen a standard k20a with just bolt on additions make 244 horsepower at the flanges on a rotatest, yes slightly less power, but that engine still running today and that was over 6 years ago when it first it power run. Getting back to more general points though, the usual rule is to only change 1 thing at a time and work your way through a development phase, however what you seem to have done is start With a complete unknown car throw absolutely everything you can imagine at it 99 percent of which is completely and tried and tested then expected to just work. Now in time you may be right but by time i mean testing going out and actually running trying etc. Etc. and as you keep telling as you don't have the budget for even a proper map sensor i don't understand where the time effort and money is going to come from 3 years was the testing to see whether it actually hangs together, let alone be competitive. Being blunt it would seem to me you would have been better off starting with a basic standard car learning to drive it, then workout where to start improving it incrementally.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Scuffers, 19 July 2014 - 03:32 PM.

[turbotoaster]

ok so rad turned up today, so spent an hour stripping the car, ive had the clam on an off so many time since ive built it that i can have the clam off in 10mins and the rest was getting the old chargecooler rad and engine rad out, I few rusty bolts needs talking to with an angle grinder!



Now my old chargecooler rad was 300mm x 300mm in size, this new one is 465mm x 220mm so about 10% more surface area but importantly nice unrestrictive inlet/outlets so this will be my test to see if increasing the flow through the system lowers my inlet temps.

Couldnt fit the chargecooler rad with the fan in stock position so Im attaching it to the chargecooler rad which should blow through both to keep my engine temps cool, since I dont spend alot of time in traffic its going to be for those times when I come into the pit lane, pro alloy do something similar but with twin fans.



What I will do is if the chargecooler rad isnt big enough I will find another engine rad from another car suitable, running another elise rad would be good but ideally would want a twin pass so I can keep my coolant lines on the passenger side to offset the driver weight, this rad only cost £18 brand new so if the experiment fails its not cost me a fortune

 

Well i look at it, the more money I save on building it(but including all the aspects I want) then the more money I will have to be able to get it on track and enjoy it, I know things could be done 10 times better if the budget was doubled, but sometimes you just have to work with what you have or what you can make, anyway we will see how I fair after my first trackday when ill get to really lean on it as running it hard on some A roads just isnt the same.

 

well that was a horrible experience for the evening, I dont have a lift so had to do this under a jack that was only lifted the car up about 40cm so it was nearly on my chest the whole time.

Firstly having to remove the old 12mm ID chargecooler lines out, that just took some pulling and messing around for 10mins per side.

Then i hole sawed the passenger side to 38mm x 76mm so I could put both pipes through the chassis.

this is when it got really difficult, getting these 25mm ID lines through the chassis took me 2hrs, I had to take off the side skirt, and the chassis panel under the fuel tank, only then to find I had a big plastic/foam construction bonded inside the sill, so alot of screaming, crying and general wimpering was involved in trying to pull all that out.

Finally managed to get one line through and then the second line took about 20 attempts as it kept getting stuck halfway down, or folding around on itself so each time I thought it had gone in the correct amount only to climb underneath to find it nowhere to be seen, that caused alot of head scratching!

But eventually got both lines through.


Just now need to get some jubilee clips to tie all the front together and then go to the back to wire in a pump and connect it up to my chargecooler.

I hope all this extra work was worth it when we review the inlet temps

Currently my setup will be

cinquento rad with 32mm inlet/outlet - 32mm to 25mm reducer elbow - 25mm pipe - chargecooler 25mm inlet/outlet - 2500l/hr pump with 27mm inlet/outlet - 25mm pipe

Im hoping the 32mm inlets on the rad will help offset the restriction of the core slightly, we will see

[turbotoaster]

On my quest for weight saving and because it doesnt actually do anything with my remote thermostat kit, out came the heater matrix and fan, weighs 3.4kg plus the associated coolant which I would imagine will be another 2kg so thats a nice additional saving on the front end which is my aim to slowly offset the aero parts ive fitted.


really grubby in there, pulling hand fulls of dirt and muck out, im going to use the heater rivnuts to bolt on a carbon panel to block the air intake to keep the muck out

 

 

front end all plumbed in, was going to fit the pump at the back but decided to put it here because it keeps the weight on the front passenger side and also its the lowest point in the system so shouldnt get air locks in there, used a piece of carbon angle to make a bracket to hold it in place




Already mocked up the back of the car, just need to cut the pipes in the morning and connect it all back together and fill it up, fingers crossed

[Claws]

Surely you want more weight over the front to offset the aero you have going on at the rear?

[turbotoaster]

Im redesigning my aero at the front to produce more downforce at the moment so im hoping to be able to get a 35/65 aero split. Currently my static weight distribution with a 100kg driver is 42/58, ive plans to pull another 5kg off the rear end with more aluminum and carbon and another 5kg from the roof and would like to try and keep a similar static distribution to work the wider front tyres better, but not to the point where im dragging weight around with me for no reason(hence pulling the heater out)

[turbotoaster]

decided that to make best use of my splitter I would make some proper end fences to keep as much high pressure air as possible on top, so its similar to what Peugeot did with there pikes peak car, ive also added one of the canards back into to also keep the end fences from simply bending over at speed.




Tomorrow ill be adding some canards onto the end fences to again try and create a little more downforce.

Havent quite decided the shape or angle of them so thats a job to think about tonight.

Also picked up a new vice today so I will start making some front diffusers this week

 

made a pair of canards today, still not 100% about them, but 45 degree angle will produce the maximum downforce but then it will produce alot of drag, so not sure yet whether the small amount of downforce will justify the drag.

 

found a picture today from the sprint when the car was set at race ride height

 

Installed my new oil catch tank tonight, its a big old girl at 2 litres but thats what the regulations ask for, that was the last thing required for racing on the car so im hopeful for brands hatch in november



Just need to get a M14 bolt to plug my inlet manifold so I can run the second breather from the rocker cover to the oil catch can now

[fezzasus]

The [color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]canards will just stall the air on the front wing.[/color]

[smiley]

Take it out for a trackday, just to see if you need to start removing stuff instead of adding.

Seriously.

 

 

 

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

do the end fences need to be that big?

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

Hello,

 

After meeting you and having a chat with you, and watching you on track, would you mind if I make a suggestion?

 

[rob999]

Go for it...

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I think snetterton was a successful day for the elise As lee said Engine didn't blow after everyone told him it would It's first time on track for a decade And the car ran well It was definitely a successfully run out and I hope it gave you some news on what to do next with the fine tuning

[FLD]

I think snetterton was a successful day for the elise As lee said Engine didn't blow after everyone told him it would It's first time on track for a decade And the car ran well It was definitely a successfully run out and I hope it gave you some news on what to do next with the fine tuning

 

Yay!

[Nev]

Great, nice one Lee. Keep spannering

[turbotoaster]

Hello,

 

After meeting you and having a chat with you, and watching you on track, would you mind if I make a suggestion?

 

 

Im all ears, im a complete novice to track driving and it wasnt until the afternoon I actually knew about the red and yellow cones so my lines were all completely wrong.

 

If im doing something wrong and you have advice then im happy to listen

[Acidpopstar]

Watched the vid, it sounds like an animal and seems to go like one too. Oversteer - hard to know without being in the car if it's the set up or just going in to corners a bit fast or both. Good luck, I will be following your progress.

[turbotoaster]

I think snetterton was a successful day for the elise As lee said Engine didn't blow after everyone told him it would It's first time on track for a decade And the car ran well It was definitely a successfully run out and I hope it gave you some news on what to do next with the fine tuning

 

taught me quite alot of things, showed me i wasnt using any of the cars cornering capacity as i was going through some corners at 80mph when it felt really easy.

 

for example in the afternoon I was going around corum at 90-95 and even then i wasnt nowhere near the limits.

 

i just need to get ontop of the engine issues as after that first lap i never got to use full power again for the rest of the day, install a bias valve for the brakes, put on my big boy pants on so i can take the corners at the proper speeds, the instructor said the car has alot of grip but you need to learn to use all of it,  im having driver training so i should improve myself and the guy training me is also going to drive the car and help get the car dialled in so there should be improvements on both sides.

[chris_uk]

Who is your trainer?