Edited by ArticMonkey, 08 January 2014 - 10:46 PM.
Project 'cash In The Attic' - Sc Conversion
#21
Posted 08 January 2014 - 10:45 PM
#22
Posted 08 January 2014 - 10:57 PM
#23
Posted 08 January 2014 - 11:10 PM
Thanks Artic. I'll look into the rad dimensions over the next few weeks. I may just go outside and measure the size of the mesh and go from there. I read on here about someone that had one behind the other, so may go for that (or 2 but offset from each other if needed).
Tubby injectors go cheap on ebay. I paid a tenner.
That's my kind of price!
#24
Posted 08 January 2014 - 11:31 PM
#25
Posted 09 January 2014 - 08:59 AM
Nelly has a cooler in his drivers side ear I believe. Not sure if you have them fitted but just an idea. Also means shorter cc pipes though I haven't seen this set-up in the flesh.
#26
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:54 AM
Nelly has a cooler in his drivers side ear I believe. Not sure if you have them fitted but just an idea. Also means shorter cc pipes though I haven't seen this set-up in the flesh.
Thanks. I had a look at that idea but I think the front mount rad will be significantly more efficient and probably just as easy to fit given the packaging issues of squeezing it into the ear. Plus having it in the ear will add to already high engine bay temp.
The extra water capacity of running it to the front will help the system absorb spikes in temperatures more easily too (thermal capacity???)
I've been looking at something like this:
http://store.thermex...remium-32-p.asp
Any suggestions on whether 1/2" bsp fitttings are appropriate?
#27
Posted 09 January 2014 - 11:18 AM
They'll do, give you a 15mm ID rather than the 19mm used for the Pro Alloy one. Just make sure you get a big CC pump. There are still some 15L/min bosch units on ebay for £60
#29
Posted 09 January 2014 - 12:24 PM
Thanks
#30
Posted 09 January 2014 - 01:10 PM
Agreed on the additional water for heat spikes etc.
If engine bay temps are an issue, under tray modification would be a good idea. The na only has 2 naca ducts whilst the turbo has 3. Winstars diagrams showing how effective the ears/ducts are at cooling showed that the air passing in through the under trays contributed a lot. Increasing the amount of ducts or enlarging the present ones may be beneficial.
#31
Posted 09 January 2014 - 01:30 PM
The last big undertray has 5 fixings to the big middle one, and could be extended with 1 cm spacers to point downward, to create a small, but wide gap for air to be flowing in.
Not sure if this would interrupt air flow dramaticly, and when i proposed this here previously it was discarted as an airbrake that would kill both driver and car instantly , but i still feel that it should do the trick just fine.
The mounting points should be enforced somehow though.
Edited by smiley, 09 January 2014 - 01:31 PM.
#32
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:05 PM
Engine bay temps are fine at the moment but it really doesn't seem like the best place to put a charge cooler rad especially once the engine is putting out an extra 100bhp - a front mount cooler seems the best option.
#33
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:06 PM
There's a good few items that I think I can source cheaper or save on (i.e. dual pass mod £100 at courtenay's - needed? Fuel pump @ £102, Ally header tank @ £100, Injector boots @ £40, 9m water hose@£50 etc.)
All suggestions welcome!
#34
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:21 PM
#35
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:23 PM
Dual pass is optional, and only advised for trackers.
Oem fuelpump can be fine for a stage II, as long as it's healthy enough to cope.
Unfortunately you will only know after a dyno session. As mentioned before, CS can fix that on the spot with either blue injectors, or a bigger pump.
Instead of an ally header tank you could try to get your hands on this one: (some sort of lsj i believe)
As for injector boots, your oem ones are of the EV6 type, and you need to convert to EV1 for tubby or blue ones.
You could try to find a cheap EV1 loom set with cables attaches, and just snap and solder them.
The pieces or iron in which the injector themselves slide in are identical for oem, turbo and vxr, so this is all just about the EV1 plugs.
(in crowd please correct if it got this one wrong)
Edited by smiley, 09 January 2014 - 10:24 PM.
#36
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:43 PM
#37
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:49 PM
Cheap looms.
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19d77086cc
A bit far away, but you get the picture. Happy hunting.
#38
Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:52 PM
Cheap looms.
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19d77086cc
A bit far away, but you get the picture. Happy hunting.
It's just a standard JPT plug, they are much cheaper elsewhere: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a329d8ae1
#39
Posted 10 January 2014 - 08:30 AM
#40
Posted 10 January 2014 - 09:12 AM
There is a thread somewhere for alternative sources for the SC conversion it has things like the M8/6 converters can be sourced from a Motorbike cheaply etc etc
My search skills fail me thou
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