468 replies to this topic

[Captain Vimes]

Worth discussing with Peter. I suspect the throttle and injectors will be less precise at less than full operation compared to the smaller items, so you may end up with something less smooth.

 

I've got some funds now to get the ECU and a few extra bits so I'll be reaching out to Peter over the next week. Hopefully the extra granularity of the software and custom map will ensure it remains smooth enough.

[Captain Vimes]

Here's an updated clip of the regal exhaust at snetterton:-

 

[Firthy]

Hi Captain, I would be interested to see how you get on with this step two! I'm thinking of doing the same thing as well maybe getting the Dutch software as a step 1 Would be interested to hear what gains you can get of a map! If I did go SC I would only go to stage one for reliability.... Contrary to popular belief I've seen quite a few failures of stage two cars. I think if you really use them hard on track they are not quite as reliable as some believe. I would rather sacrifice some power for overall reliability..... Firthy

  I'll keep the thread updated with all progress. Ideally I'd do one thing at a time and test the difference that each makes. I expect the map will make a reasonable difference but don't really expect the injectors or TB to do anything - maybe a couple of bhp right at the VERY top of the rev range. Mark Verboom's site is good for this if you hadn't already found it - https://www.verboom....ster/index.html Mark got 4bhp from the TB when combined with some other mods: https://www.verboom....0606/index.html     With regard to reliability - like you I am a little nervous of what it's like with hard track use. What failures have you seen? My gut feel is that the issue is less to do with the amount of power and more to do with the high intake temps from the SC on extended track sessions - the Laminova's are not up to the task. My current thoughts are to either-   - Stage 1.5 - change for a larger pulley and aim for 220bhp but still running a chargecooler with dual pass mod. This should bring the charger back into it's efficiency range and allow the laminova's to keep it cool. - Stage 2 (250 bhp) and add some extra cooling - either Lee's additional cooler or water injection - plus keep the max revs down to something sensible (6500rpm?)   I'm also going to run the vxr injectors to ensure that the injectors are not at full duty cycle which should allow some headroom to add more fuel and keep detonation under control.      

I have seen three stage 2 car failures (not on the forums) low oil bottom end jobs 2 of them.... one obviously being Marks (five o'clock) if you speak to most owners they all appear to be losing oil a fairly rapid rate. Like you I think it's a good idea to keep the revs down. I'm not saying they are unreliable I just haven't seen a owner that uses their car (what I consider to be ) hard on track running a reliable standard internal stage 2 car. Keep us posted though

Edited by Firthy, 20 April 2014 - 07:12 PM.

[Captain Vimes]

Thanks. Not sure why oil consumption should be higher unless it some how pressurises the oil. Any thoughts on how to combat the issue?

[ArticMonkey]

UM, keep an eye on the oil every time you come in? High oil consumption isn't an issue if you monitor it. The car does consume more oil than an NA however.

 

Having owned a stage 2 for two years and been on several track days with other stage 2 cars, I can say there's no reliability issues. Yes the power drops off, but that's also partly the CS map dumping fuel to try and cool the car. Which intern creates more heat and knocks the power down.

 

With the dutch software you will have full control over the map. You'll be able to adapt things to help the car gain its full potential. Limiting the power, shouldn't come in to it imo. 

 

 

 

 

[dewismotorsport]

Great thread I like the idea behind raising the money, I haven't got the will power not to just buy stuff out right though. I wouldn't fit vxr injectors on a z22se na will be utterly pointless and just over fuel, I doubt the Ecu will be able to pull back enough fuel to make them work well enough and you will just be wasting fuel, certainly won't make any extra power.

[Firthy]

UM, keep an eye on the oil every time you come in? High oil consumption isn't an issue if you monitor it. The car does consume more oil than an NA however.   Having owned a stage 2 for two years and been on several track days with other stage 2 cars, I can say there's no reliability issues. Yes the power drops off, but that's also partly the CS map dumping fuel to try and cool the car. Which intern creates more heat and knocks the power down.   With the dutch software you will have full control over the map. You'll be able to adapt things to help the car gain its full potential. Limiting the power, shouldn't come in to it imo.         

Fair enough... But I don't know how hard you push your car.... It's spec or how many track days you did in the 2 years but I'll take your word for it. As long as the oil consumption doesn't get to bad as you say it shouldn't be a problem. I think max, Jimmy's and marks failures were due to the valve bounce Not sure on Sutols....

[Mr Apex]

On my car at least, revs are what affect oil consumption. I have tracked it both NA and SC. In normal, sub-5K rpm, it uses hardly any oil. If I extend it to 6.5K it starts to drink oil pretty quickly. So post-SC conversion, I use less oil in road use, because I drive with the torque most of the time, but still use lots on the track. I always top right up first thing on a track day and then check every other session. I always end up putting a half litre in at some point in the day. 

[smiley]

I thought it was allready concluded that the oil is being spit out the rocker cover breather hole under high revs, because the PCV is blocked on an SC converion in general? 

 

[Mr Apex]

Not on my car. There is a fair amount of oil vapour from that breather under load, but no real volume of oil. The Z22SE just has a tendency to burn oil at high rpm.

[oakmere]

Do not fit the large injectors and throttle body to an almost std N/A it will hurt drivability and may cause over fuelling as mentioned above. You can learn plenty regarding the OBD Software without changing any hardware.

[Captain Vimes]

Quick update on this.... I've sort of forgotten about the sell/buy principle and am starting to focus on just getting it sorted now. However, I've just bought/sold my brother-in-laws fiesta and made a small profit which pretty much brings the fund raising budget to where I needed it. I've got all the budget bits in a spreadsheet so will add a breakdown at some point... So, onto the conversion.... Having decided to go Dutch, I contacted Peter about adding the vxr injectors and LSJ TB and he thinks they'll be fine once mapped, so I'm going to make the changes in steps and see how they work. Peter received the ECU today and is now loading the software, so I hope to have it back and driving next week. So step 1 will be: - k&n cone filter on standard inlet - pre-cat removed and Regal 2.5" backbox - Dutch software Next step (after the national) - LSJ TB - courtenay air filter and 70mm alloy intake Beyond - the inlet manifold was damaged in transit from America so is with Dave H for the dual pass mod and repair - I need to get a 100amp alternator, Bosch cc pump, odds and sods... Hopefully I'll add an update next week once the ecu is back :-)

Edited by Captain Vimes, 21 May 2014 - 10:20 PM.

[Captain Vimes]

Dutch ECU is back, now fitted and the car starts but haven't had a chance to drive the car yet :-(

 

I'm now booked into the national (14th June) and also at Brands on 24th July. The plan is to get the car SC'd between these 2 dates. so I'm going to get the remaining bits and pieces.

 

So.. can anyone confirm whether I have a 120 or 100A alternator from these pics... If not I'll have another go at taking pics tomorrow or remove the ECU/inlet at the weekend:

 

[fezzasus]

https://z22se.co.uk/...c-request.6913/

 

However my 120a alternator had Torx bolts so who knows.

 

My advice to anyone supercharging is to buy a 100 a alternator, then if you discover yours is 120a you haven't lost any time, if it's 100a you can simply sell the alternator on.

[smiley]

The word 100 is shown on the plastic lid on the alternator. Just keep taking pictures untill you see it. Could take many but it can be done.

[Captain Vimes]

I can confirm that MANY pictures will eventually yield results... Mine is a 120 amp. Time to find a 100amp alternator...

 

 

Edited by Captain Vimes, 29 May 2014 - 07:08 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 29 May 2014 - 06:58 PM.

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

will ebay do? these look right if the interlocking bit is to believed? http://www.ebay.co.u...6-/310620245898 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27e46125a2 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2ed26568bd

[fezzasus]

2nd two are for the wrong engine and won't fit.

[fezzasus]

This will do, however VAUXHALL 2.2 16V PETROL Z22SE ALTERNATOR BOSCH 100 AMP / 2000-2005