1145 replies to this topic

[gingerjon]

G, Lets swap for a month.... I too have spent 3 times the original planned budget for the "quick refresh" and have got bored of it being off the road!! Maybe a few weeks working on mine will spur you on with yours! I could do with the change of scenery!! J

Edited by gingerjon, 26 June 2014 - 09:41 PM.

[Graeme Lambert]

G, Lets swap for a month.... I too have spent 3 times the original planned budget for the "quick refresh" and have got bored of it being off the road!! Maybe a few weeks working on mine will spur you on with yours! I could do with the change of scenery!! J

 

I have a window in August where I'll be on holiday for 2.5 weeks enjoying the change of scenery where you'd be very welcome to work on mine if it helps!

[Graeme Lambert]

So working the weekend, and a few nights away with work during the week, meant I haven't spent much time at MBR over the last couple of weeks. The bad news is I'm away visiting family this weekend, more family the weekend after, followed by a wknd stag do, then a wknd of the wedding, then I think I (currently) have a free weekend (start of Aug) and then I'm away for 3 weekends on holiday. Might be September before I'm back in the workshop on a sat...

 

Anyway, I have managed a couple of hours of work on it after work for a couple of nights since stripping the doors.

 

Onto the bulkhead, which I'd previously cut out and shaped.

 

 

Unfortunately we could only find one clamp, so getting it to sit in place with the required pressure for the sealer to bond properly required some blue peter style thinking... and a wishbone

 

 

Basically needed the wood to apply even(ish) pressure accross the whole width of the bulkhead, and the wishbone to add weight to stop the clamp slipping up and off the rollbar cover. Was a little worried about dinking my newly powdercoated wishbone though as I had to leave it overnight, so set up a rudimentary trampoline for it!

 

 

Of course these things take time, as you need to leave it to set for at least 24 hours

 

So a day later, after doing the top, we needed to do the sides as well. So that mean more wood, and more clamping. Oh and that wishbone again

 

 

]

 

 

 

 

[Graeme Lambert]

Which left the bottom to do, another night.

 

More wood, but not wishbones this time

 

 

 

Added some extra sealer onto the inside panel as well (you won't see it as much of this will be hidden by the speaker panel and a new trim piece will be insereted where the window normally is.)

 

 

And the good news is when we removed the wood, the bulkhead remained in place

 

 

 

Tweaked the part that butts up against the section above the fuel tank pipes. Thankfully it looks far neater in real life than it does in this picture...

 

 

Added some extra sealant to smooth the transition from metal bulkhead to original

 

 

 

And the other side

 

 

View from behind

 

 

And tonight's job, is to make lots of templates ready to duplicate in the world's most expensive gold tinfoil

 

 

 

[Graeme Lambert]

In the meantime I've also sorted the front brakes.

 

Attached the calipers to the braided hoses, and added new crossover pipes too. AP 308mm discs attached to the new hubs also, just waiting on spacers for them (shame EP don't supply these as a matter of course considering just how little it would cost them...)

 

 

And in 'other news' some work to the engine has finally started (head off ready for flow work etc)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[siztenboots]

keeping the standard oil setup , or hacking the lump off and have a remote spin on

[fezzasus]

Nothing wrong with the oil filter design, it's the oil cooler sandwich plate which causes the problems

[Nev]

Hi Graeme/et all,

 

I was looking at your installation pics of the EP bump steer arms in the pics below that you kindly posted (as I am thinking of buying them and installing them myself).

 

I have a question though, looking at the pic, if a car were running very low ground to chassis ride height, surely the comes a point where the wishbones are pointing upwards far enough that you cannot reduce the spacers between the steering arm and the ball joint? Any clarification would be helpful from someone who has installed this kit, thanks.

 

Edited by Nev, 04 July 2014 - 09:22 AM.

[Nev]

Also, I can't see from the pic, but is the retaining nut on the bottom of the main downward point bolt a nylock or is it a castle nut with pin? I ask, as it's occurred to me that the plastic in a nylock could (possibly) get a bit hot from brake heat transfer?

 

Also, just to summarise/clarify my question/point in the post above this one, am I right in thinking that the maximum amount one can lower the ball joint is dictated by the depth of the "scallop" in the ends of the EP arms ? If so, surely this only allows a drop of (guessing from the pics) about 2 or 3 CM ?

Edited by Nev, 04 July 2014 - 10:04 AM.

[Nev]

Surely someone can answer my questions please ?

[Zoobeef]

I can't remember from looking at mine as I didn't do the fitting and I only looked at the parts. I think its a nyloc though. They will be fine as the ball joints all use nylocs too.

[Scuffers]

Not sure i understand the question?

[fezzasus]

Nev, the cut away on the EP steering arm mounts simply means that the geometry when dropped 2-3 cm is equivalent to the normal arms at normal ride height, maintaining the level of bump steer. If you want to drop it more than that, the geometry changes so level of bump steer does, however because it's a eye joint it can accommodate a significant drop before reaching the limits of rotation

[Nev]

Nev, the cut away on the EP steering arm mounts simply means that the geometry when dropped 2-3 cm is equivalent to the normal arms at normal ride height, maintaining the level of bump steer.

Ah, that confirms what I thought from looking at the pics, so a geo drop of more than 2.5 cm (approx.) can't be catered for by the EP bump steer kit. I had a preliminary inspection of the OEM steering arms today (without dismantling it all). Question: Is the centre hole that the upper wishbone ball-joint points down through a tapered one?

Edited by Nev, 06 July 2014 - 04:29 PM.

[Bumblebee]

At what ride height is it when the bump steer kit is recommended?

[Scuffers]

Nev, the cut away on the EP steering arm mounts simply means that the geometry when dropped 2-3 cm is equivalent to the normal arms at normal ride height, maintaining the level of bump steer. If you want to drop it more than that, the geometry changes so level of bump steer does, however because it's a eye joint it can accommodate a significant drop before reaching the limits of rotation

Come again? More to it than that..

[Graeme Lambert]

 

Nev, the cut away on the EP steering arm mounts simply means that the geometry when dropped 2-3 cm is equivalent to the normal arms at normal ride height, maintaining the level of bump steer. If you want to drop it more than that, the geometry changes so level of bump steer does, however because it's a eye joint it can accommodate a significant drop before reaching the limits of rotation

Come again? More to it than that..

 

 

Got time to explain then Simon?  

[Graeme Lambert]

So anyway, managed to grab another couple of hours at the unit last week and this, and spent some time playing with the world's most expensive tinfoil. It is gold though, so I guess I can let DEI off...

 

No pressure not to fcuk this up then...

 

 

A bit crinkly and wrinkly, but it appears this is the finish you're going to get with this no matter how well you apply it. Plus much of it will be hidden by engine anwyay.

 

 

Both 'top' sides done

 

 

Just trying to work out the best way to get the lower panel to work properly with all the pipework etc there.

 

 

 

And last night, finishing it off

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And that's it...

 

Now I'm waiting on Mr Bentley sorting the engine, and until then nothing can happen. Need it built up and dropped in on its mounts ASAP, so I can work on it before I go on holiday in August and have any chance of getting this fcuking thing finished before 2015. I've given him one Duncan to get it done, but we all know how well that usually ends

 

 

[techieboy]

No removable panel in the bulkhead for ease of supercharger removal/refitting?

[leevx2.2]

Can't you fit rear subframe and get on with getting it back on its wheels ? Fuel pipes to fit swirl pot to fit ? Try Ironing the gold sheet might get a flatter finish ;-)