158 replies to this topic

[Chris P Duck]

Well I can't believe I'm saying this, but the car started fine again this morning. Maybe 4-5 chugs and it's caught clean, no spluttering into life etc. I'm hoping that is that so thanks for the help everyone, with a bit of luck it's the last I hear of it. Maybe it's worth trying a swap over with the front ones ChrisPD?

Glad you got it sorted with minimum cost or expense Pulled it yesterday but the contacts and connectors all looked fine. Will change it just incase but I need to wait until I'm back from holiday now

[pete-r]

Every time I try to start it I have my fingers crossed! I'll see how it fairs this week.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Thumbs up Time to start mapping

[pete-r]

Just another update, car not started since yesterday morning and again today it started within a second of pressing the starter. Definitely not obvious but worth trying if anyone else has starting issues.

[Bargi]

Throttle Body

So update to this. Purchased a second hand SC TB from fleabay to test.

Fitted it today and loaded a MAP prior to Peter's adjustments although doesn't seem to have made much of a difference although I'll give it a few more days/turnovers yet (video here )

 

The two TBs have different numbers on them (Orig 04505F0905, replacement 04505f0301)

Googling doesn't seem to bring anything related up so assuming they're serial numbers.

Anyone with a TB to hand could you check what your number is?

 

Looking at the logging the Throttle Valve Position is settling down to <14% which is what normal TBs show (was showing around 17%) so guess that can only be a "good thing"

 

Fuel Pressure

Seeing Pete-r seemed to have some success I decided to do a check myself with Nicks homemade fuel pressure gauge.

 

Video is here (held onto the starter to long me thinks)

Fuel pump primes to 3.8PSI which is right, but then just doesn't seem to hold pressure at all, is this normal?

 

I've got the Walbro 255, but would think there shouldn't be any difference between it and the OEM fuel return unless the Walbro is letting pressure back through the pump itself when powered off (OEM perhaps has some sort of one way valve?)

 

When starting, I always wait until the pump has primed and all the noises have stopped. Next time I'll try starting half second or so after turning the key on to see if it makes a difference. Not sure it will as the pressure jumps up almost immediately on starting.

[Kieran McC]

Throttle Body

So update to this. Purchased a second hand SC TB from fleabay to test.

Fitted it today and loaded a MAP prior to Peter's adjustments although doesn't seem to have made much of a difference although I'll give it a few more days/turnovers yet (video here )

 

The two TBs have different numbers on them (Orig 04505F0905, replacement 04505f0301)

Googling doesn't seem to bring anything related up so assuming they're serial numbers.

Anyone with a TB to hand could you check what your number is?

 

Looking at the logging the Throttle Valve Position is settling down to <14% which is what normal TBs show (was showing around 17%) so guess that can only be a "good thing"

 

Fuel Pressure

Seeing Pete-r seemed to have some success I decided to do a check myself with Nicks homemade fuel pressure gauge.

 

Video is here (held onto the starter to long me thinks)

Fuel pump primes to 3.8PSI which is right, but then just doesn't seem to hold pressure at all, is this normal?

 

I've got the Walbro 255, but would think there shouldn't be any difference between it and the OEM fuel return unless the Walbro is letting pressure back through the pump itself when powered off (OEM perhaps has some sort of one way valve?)

 

When starting, I always wait until the pump has primed and all the noises have stopped. Next time I'll try starting half second or so after turning the key on to see if it makes a difference. Not sure it will as the pressure jumps up almost immediately on starting.

I thought a larger fuel pump like a Aero Motive 450 was recommended with a 3" exhaust and a standard fuel tank ?

[Bargi]

 

I thought a larger fuel pump like a Aero Motive 450 was recommended with a 3" exhaust and a standard fuel tank ?

 

 

Won't make any difference at turnover

 

Walbro 255 has been the default upgrade, should be plenty for even big BHP http://www.enginelog...el-pump-sizing/

Edited by Bargi, 16 September 2014 - 03:43 PM.

[Kieran McC]

 

 

I thought a larger fuel pump like a Aero Motive 450 was recommended with a 3" exhaust and a standard fuel tank ?

 

 

Won't make any difference at turnover

 

Walbro 255 has been the default upgrade, should be plenty for even big BHP http://www.enginelog...el-pump-sizing/

 

That will save me a few pounds then LOL

[Chris P Duck]

Ok, so had a bit of time to get on this. Changed the fuel pump relay and cleaned all the contact (was just crossing my fingers after Pete-r's joy really) No difference Changed the injectors (as they were maxed out rather than in an effort to fix this) No difference I've had the SC and manifold off and checked all gaskets etc and couldn't see any potential vacuum leaks. No difference It seems to be getting worse, the last 2 or 3 times I honestly thought it wasn't going to start. Took 3 LONG crank attempts of around 10 seconds each. Caught and stalled, then push started again with a big foot of gas and all fine. As soon as it's started it runs 100% fine and doesn't seem down on power or stall once running. Got to the point where I'm scared to take it out for fear it won't start, so really need to get this sorted. I have borrowed a pressure gauge from a friend that measures both vacuum and pressure so should be able to check fuel pressure and vacuum leak. However not sure how to go about this, I assume I plumb it in with a T-piece to the brake servo line and start the car but what reading is normal? I still have a gut instinct there's something not right wit either the charger or manifold as the bypass section just won't sit tight together. Been off and back on 3 times now but I can still see a lot of the green gasket. Also I've noticed there appears to be oil being spun off the SC pulley as there's a line spread on the bulkhead here. Any advice welcome as I have a car limits day booked in and paid for next month but not sure I want to risk the journey as it is :-(

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Chris send me your map file Have you now got the blue Vxr injectors in ?

[Exmantaa]

Visible green bypass gasket is NOT normal. Something is wrong there. Oil from sc pulley is also not whst it should be....

[Chris P Duck]

Chris send me your map file Have you now got the blue Vxr injectors in ?

Yup new blue VXR injectors are in (and they really are new, good eBay steal there) House sitting tonight but will send the map across when back from work tomorrow.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

ChrisPduck If you want we can meet up and swap parts to find problem But I work every Saturday and normally have kids on Sunday as wife works but I regularly have 3 days of in the week if you can work with that

[Chris P Duck]

Mate I'd MAKE that work if you don't mind. Swap's have to be the quickest way I'd guess. Is it always the same days you have off or do you have a rota? If so can you PM me some dates you can make and I'll see what I can book off.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

When is your track day

[Chris P Duck]

October 10th

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

October 10th

Good stuff as I'm almost halve way through changing a engine in the donkey with gbc Let us get that out the way next week then I will no what days I'm working and not working

[Stocky]

Ok, so had a bit of time to get on this. Changed the fuel pump relay and cleaned all the contact (was just crossing my fingers after Pete-r's joy really) No difference Changed the injectors (as they were maxed out rather than in an effort to fix this) No difference I've had the SC and manifold off and checked all gaskets etc and couldn't see any potential vacuum leaks. No difference It seems to be getting worse, the last 2 or 3 times I honestly thought it wasn't going to start. Took 3 LONG crank attempts of around 10 seconds each. Caught and stalled, then push started again with a big foot of gas and all fine. As soon as it's started it runs 100% fine and doesn't seem down on power or stall once running. Got to the point where I'm scared to take it out for fear it won't start, so really need to get this sorted. I have borrowed a pressure gauge from a friend that measures both vacuum and pressure so should be able to check fuel pressure and vacuum leak. However not sure how to go about this, I assume I plumb it in with a T-piece to the brake servo line and start the car but what reading is normal? I still have a gut instinct there's something not right wit either the charger or manifold as the bypass section just won't sit tight together. Been off and back on 3 times now but I can still see a lot of the green gasket. Also I've noticed there appears to be oil being spun off the SC pulley as there's a line spread on the bulkhead here. Any advice welcome as I have a car limits day booked in and paid for next month but not sure I want to risk the journey as it is :-(

After all of this did you ever get this issue sorted?  or was there ever another solution from a different thread?

[Chris P Duck]

Yeah so there was 3 problems which is what made diagnosis so hard. 1 internal fuel pipe was split where it attached to the pump. Diagnosed via a fuel pressure test during start up. 2 the charger / bypass valve was warped (no idea how this happened) causing a slight boost leak (gave very few symptoms) 3 the pulley shaft was damaged causing it to leak charger oil All sorted now and been running fine for the couple of years since Pressure test with split hose https://youtu.be/icDfhqe897o And with fixed hose https://youtu.be/RuADxDCAN9o