Pcv And Cam Cover Breather Options
#181
Posted 29 July 2015 - 09:45 AM
#182
Posted 29 July 2015 - 04:04 PM
#183
Posted 29 July 2015 - 04:54 PM
martin you have a pm
the tight saab engine seems to breath very heavy
if you have the valve open you should really run a full pcv system (oem)
when you introduce the vacuum you dont get the crank case build up which eventually comes out very heavily if you introduce the vacuum to the inlet then there isnt any build up of crank pressure so next to know oil comes out ( you will always get some but in theory it should be burnt off but in reality it ends up clogging the laminoavas and charger and TB
this can be reduced by adding a catch tank/ seperator
i have taken it one step further by adding a bypass to allow air to come back in with one way valves
after croft at tge weekend i was still getting a little bit of oil passing but no where near as much as i had without the vacuum
#184
Posted 31 July 2015 - 07:08 AM
Can someone send me a clear diagram of what I need and maybe a link to bits I need?
(Please remember I am no mechanic).
Martin
#185
Posted 31 July 2015 - 09:42 AM
the yellow circles are the two ends of the LSJ breather hose, one connects to the Saab cam cover the other end goes into the inlet pipe from the air filter.
You need two M8 x 15mm bolts and washers to hold the metal pipe to the cylinder head. The cam cover just slides on and use the OEM clip or jubilee clip.
The air filter end is the hardest part, you need to make a hole and connect the two hoses together, I used the OEM air intake sensor grommet and a brass fitting on this car.
#186
Posted 31 July 2015 - 11:19 AM
This seems a bit crude, doesn't it just throw oil into the sc and effect the laminovas??
Why does the SAAB intake no longer have the sensor going into it?
Martin S
#187
Posted 31 July 2015 - 01:16 PM
it's how GM designed it to be.
You now run a TMAP, so no inlet temp sensor.
#188
Posted 31 July 2015 - 01:55 PM
GM also designed the Vectra and surely they didn't know we were going to stick superchargers on their saab engines??
Is there a maybe a better way (inline filters etc) if so, what parts do I need.
There seems to be many theories and methods, I need a simple, easy, solution.
Martin S
#189
Posted 31 July 2015 - 02:17 PM
Just leave what you had before, you didn't get much previously did you?
I'd also wait until the AFR results from a Dyno and see if it's not running rich rather than oil from your breather
#190
Posted 31 July 2015 - 02:23 PM
Or get yourself a Pro Vent 200
If Lingenfelter use them on modified ye olde pushrod GM V8s then they must be good!
#191
Posted 31 July 2015 - 04:56 PM
i did look at putting it straight in the exhaust but the chance of the exhaust setting the oil on fire was to high for me to do it
if you leave it as it is you will still have a build up of pressure which is bad for the piston rings etc etc
the safest option is to go oem and install some kind of catch tank seperator in between
the oil will be very much reduced if you put the vacuum on to the crank by putting just a filter on it the vacuum does not pull the crank gasses out
#192
Posted 31 July 2015 - 07:05 PM
Venting to atmosphere is always the best solution. The only reason modern cars vent back into the inlet is due to legal/emissions restrictions, however this conflict with good combustion because feeding oxygen starved oily air into the inlet track is obviously a bad thing to do.
Please read above again. Venting to atmosphere is what all cars since the year dot have done, until emissions laws came in. All you need to do is simply vent the crank case or cam cover via a flexi pipe and gauze filter. If you have very heavy breathing then you can put a catch tank in the middle of the flexi pipe.
BTW, if your brand new engine is breathing heavily then you need to put mineral oil in and rev it up and down the rev range (accelerate and down coast). This will make the pistons bed both side of the bores. After 500 miles you should be ragging it IMO to get the rings to bed in fully. Vocky may know some more exact details, but that's what I'd do if nobody could give me an official run in procedure.
#193
Posted 31 July 2015 - 07:07 PM
With it open to atmosphere and your inlet valve blocked of means you can't replace the fresh air that is needed in the crank area?Venting to atmosphere is always the best solution. The only reason modern cars vent back into the inlet is due to legal/emissions restrictions, however this conflict with good combustion because feeding oxygen starved oily air into the inlet track is obviously a bad thing to do.
Why do you need fresh air in the crank case? There is no reason that I can think of. Unless your engine has perfectly sealed rings it will always get exhaust gas leaking into the crankcase to some degree I would imagine.
Edited by Nev, 31 July 2015 - 07:19 PM.
#194
Posted 31 July 2015 - 07:07 PM
.
Edited by Nev, 31 July 2015 - 07:16 PM.
#195
Posted 01 August 2015 - 06:51 AM
Ask fiveoclock what happened to his vent hose on the VX a while backi did look at putting it straight in the exhaust but the chance of the exhaust setting the oil on fire was to high for me to do it if you leave it as it is you will still have a build up of pressure which is bad for the piston rings etc etc the safest option is to go oem and install some kind of catch tank seperator in between the oil will be very much reduced if you put the vacuum on to the crank by putting just a filter on it the vacuum does not pull the crank gasses out
#196
Posted 01 August 2015 - 07:59 AM
originally the PCV had to be modified because Courtenay could not map a SC with it connected - it caused a high tickover.
Now the Dutch mapping is available it can be reconnected as OEM, however some owners prefer it to vent to air to keep their inlet clean.
What I found on my own car was a little bit of oil vapour coming from the filter venting it to air, when I connected the hose to the air filter I now get none whatsoever
Edited by vocky, 01 August 2015 - 08:00 AM.
#197
Posted 01 August 2015 - 10:43 AM
With it open to atmosphere and your inlet valve blocked of means you can't replace the fresh air that is needed in the crank area?Venting to atmosphere is always the best solution. The only reason modern cars vent back into the inlet is due to legal/emissions restrictions, however this conflict with good combustion because feeding oxygen starved oily air into the inlet track is obviously a bad thing to do.
Why do you need fresh air in the crank case? There is no reason that I can think of. Unless your engine has perfectly sealed rings it will always get exhaust gas leaking into the crankcase to some degree I would imagine.
They do that to preserve the oil quality and flush all the water from your crank case. Combustion gasses contain a lot of water, which is not so good for engine internals...
#198
Posted 27 January 2016 - 01:24 PM
#199
Posted 14 February 2016 - 08:14 AM
#200
Posted 14 February 2016 - 05:16 PM
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