
Bump Steer
#1
Posted 31 May 2014 - 07:06 PM
#2
Posted 31 May 2014 - 07:13 PM
I'll be following this as i'm in the exact same position, 120/130 and on the local roads it can be quite a handful sometimes. Mostly only under heavy braking on bumpy roads for me though.
#3
Posted 31 May 2014 - 07:22 PM
#4
Posted 31 May 2014 - 07:30 PM
Hmm its been awhile since I drove the vx but after fitting ntr's last year I noticed similar problems. Just assumed it was down to harder springs. Will keep an eye on this and see how I feel when I get to drive the blasted thing again.
#5
Posted 01 June 2014 - 09:28 AM
#6
Posted 01 June 2014 - 09:36 AM
#7
Posted 01 June 2014 - 12:15 PM
These are my next fix , where I had my geo they were recomended , If these donot correct it he said the Eliese parts kit.My problem is mainly on the smaller back roads.
Is this in your VX or your tractor
#8
Posted 01 June 2014 - 12:45 PM
#9
Posted 01 June 2014 - 01:06 PM
City boy LOLIs this in your VX or your tractorThese are my next fix , where I had my geo they were recomended , If these donot correct it he said the Eliese parts kit.My problem is mainly on the smaller back roads.
#10
Posted 01 June 2014 - 01:33 PM
#11
Posted 01 June 2014 - 03:15 PM
1. Fit the raiser plates to get the rack up as high as possible.
2. Make sure your car is at the correct ride height. I actually struggled with this quite a lot, as I don't have a very flat floor in the garage. Only measure on a real flat floor
3. Only when you're sure the car is at the correct ride height, do a geo. Take special care with the toe, as the car is very sensitive to this. I set mine at 0.5 mm per side toe out front and 2.5 mm per side toe in at the back (340R). For me that works
The above got rid of a 'darty' feel that I always had. I still like to get rid of some bumpsteer, but more for sake of feeling how that drives. As I still don't know how bumpsteer feels. And that after spending quite some time measuring things and trying out different things.
There is actually quite a lot of bumpsteer at the front, a lot more than at the back. It has been designed in, as it's not hard to get rid of it. I just don't know what the reason was. Also beware that when you hit a bump and both sides compress and react the same way, you will hardly feel that as the wheels will change toe at the same time. It's only when you hit a bump on one side that you will really feel an effect. The effect is much larger in roll steer, as cornering, one side will be in bump and the other in droop. The side in bump will go toe out, while the side in droop goes toe in. So you get a steering effect.
And going lower, at least to something like 120/130, doesn't mean you increase bumpsteer significantly. That part of the bumpsteer curve is pretty linear. On top of that, most people who lower their cars have height adjustable dampers and as they change the damper, they also get higher rate springs. That effectively means that under the same conditions, you use less bump and droop. That means that the effect of bumpsteer is also less. It might be that you actually have less bumpsteer than standard.
My bet is on the geo, but do the raiser plates and the ride height first. Nothing more frustrating than doing a geo then finding out you want to change the ride height, doing a geo again etc (I did that about 10 times)
And if you want to get less bumpsteer, after the raiser plates, the next option is lowering the pivot point of the steering arm. Be careful with that, as lowering with about 3-4 mm will get you zero bumpsteer and going lower will change the bumpsteer curve in the wrong direction. Not a good idea.
#12
Posted 01 June 2014 - 03:43 PM
Good topic at the right time.
thinking about the lowering brackets (15mm) and 10mm raiserplates to compensate. had a bumpsteer nightmare on my last car.... wont go there again..
#13
Posted 01 June 2014 - 11:15 PM
#14
Posted 03 June 2014 - 06:57 AM
Running 215 RS-R's on the front and no issues at all.
#15
Posted 05 June 2014 - 12:04 PM
Need to favourite this thread so when the vx is back on the road I can go over it again.
All I remember from last year was that the car felt very 'lively' on back roads at anything other than gentle driving. It's on 125/135 with standard wheels, suspension refresh too so nothings worn except maybe the rack but not noticed any play in it. Something I'm very keen to get sorted out as the back roads in Suffolk are lovely
Kieran, where did you get your geo done?
#16
Posted 05 June 2014 - 04:20 PM
Now that you mention the rack, I checked that some weeks ago, because I suspected some play or knocking. Took it out, nothing, no play no knocking. Only thing I immediately noticed that there was almost no resistance. Not very strange for a 12 years+ rack. So I set the thrust pad such that it has the specified pull through of somewhere between 6.4 and 8.2 kgs. That made some difference in how lively it feels. Less so. How much less is hard to say, as I did the very unscientific thing of changing loads of things at the same time
#17
Posted 05 June 2014 - 04:50 PM
Optimum height for wishbone angles and ensuring that CV boots have a chance of a normal ish life120/130 is monster truck ride height at least for me Could be totally wrong.... Kindly, Paul
#18
Posted 07 June 2014 - 07:53 PM
The bump steer kit will only remedy some of the problem from lowering your ride height, as it wont improve the key issue of the roll angles having dropped. There are 2 solutions to fix that though:
1. Install a spacer under the upright to push the outboard lower wishbone down (cf TurboToasters thread, as (to my knowledge) he is the only person ingenious enough on here to have done this).
2. Design (or buy expensive) new uprights with the hub pack centre lowered.
HTH.
Edited by Nev, 07 June 2014 - 08:11 PM.
#19
Posted 08 June 2014 - 12:13 AM
we have also tested the bump steer kit from ep on my car at the equivalent of 83mm front ride height, then put the car under compression and checked bump steer and the toe didnt move at all.
Will hopefully measure it at 75mm height(effective to 59mm height because im running larger radius tyres)
So if you are actually experiencing bump steer then the EP kits works, my advice would be before you start spending money is to take it a a hawker geo machine and have them test how much bump steer your getting, if its alot then getting a kit is worth it.
As Nev says, there are 2 issues with running a car low, bump steer is only one of them, but for most vx220 drivers on the road wont run it low enough that roll centre becomes a massive issue I wouldnt have thought
Edited by turbotoaster, 08 June 2014 - 12:15 AM.
#20
Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:08 AM
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