21 replies to this topic

[Moschops]

When I bought my car it had both the engine management light and the abs lights on. I was under the impression that the ABS disconnect switch was the cause of both lights being on. Then, a couple of weeks ago the airbag light came on.   MOT due later this month, so time to sort things out.

 

I fixed the airbag light fairly easily - it turned out to be a loose connector on the pax side pre-tensioner. 1 down...

 

I switched the ABS back on - light off. 2 down, one to go.

 

I hoped that the EML would turn itself off after driving around with the ABS enabled, but no such luck.

 

I've connected the PLX Kiwi OBD Wifi reader that came with the car to my phone using the Dash Command app . IT connects OK and shows me all the engine parameters, but doesn't show any error codes.

 

I also tried my USB ELM 327 OBD connecter but it won't connect, though I think this is due to it being wired to suit an Alfa.

 

So, questions:

1) Should the EML come on when the ABS is switched off (switch under bonnet)? If so, how do I reset it?!

2) Assuming the answer to the first question is "no", is there any good reason why DashCommand isn't showing any errors?

3) Is it worth buying an OPCOM or a U480 code reader - am I likely to learn anything new?

4) Is there anyone local (Hinckley, East Mids) that might be able to help diagnose this EML?

 

Thanks in advance!

Neil

[slindborg]

Does it drive like crap once warmed up?

[Goosenka]

anyone with a scanguage as well can at least scan for codes.

[Moschops]

Does it drive like crap once warmed up?

No, it drives fine. Idle is a bit lumpy when cold, but other than that it's great!

 

It does have a weird habit of blipping the throttle a few times when I start her up from cold, but that's more embaressing than worrying as I look like a bit of a chav when I set off!

[Goosenka]

Supercharged?

[Moschops]

Supercharged?

Yes 

[deano01]

anyone with a scanguage as well can at least scan for codes.

 

I do, and I am local too buy the looks of it. I will be about sunday so I could pop over or you to me. Drop me a pm.  

[Moschops]

Sunday sounds good, I think I'm free in the afternoon. I'll check with the boss then PM you. Thanks for the offer.

[deano01]

Sunday sounds good, I think I'm free in the afternoon. I'll check with the boss then PM you. Thanks for the offer.

 

 

You live with your boss! 

 

My missis lives with her boss too.  

[Moschops]

So, thanks to Deano, we managed to pinpoint the fault code as [color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]P0405 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage. Only.... the EGR has already been deleted as part of the SC conversion![/color]

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]I guessed that it might be a loose connection on the EGR c[/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]heater, but I can't find one! I've pulled a load of the conduit apart and fumbled around for it, but can't find the damn thing anywhere. I'm assuming that it must have one fitted, so any pointers to where about on this picture I should be looking?![/color]

 photo 3.JPG   254.94KB   15 downloads

 

Thanks

[vocky]

usually the plug is just down the loom from the coilpack plug.

 

I fit them out of sight inside the loom, but thats not one of my sc looms, so it could be anywhere 

Edited by vocky, 10 June 2014 - 07:32 AM.

[Moschops]

I found it. I was taped up and buried away. Looks like part of the solder has failed, so I'll resolder it tomorrow and see if I can clear the EML.

[ArticMonkey]

Only just seen this thread. The EML will be the EGR cheater. I fitted a new one before selling the car to norplex but the light still didnt go out. He was happy if I got an MOT done, so I did...... As you can see, the wiring is shocking (blame the dumb Irishman I bought it off). So it could be a number of problems in the loom. At least you're learning the car for when it gose wrong again.

Edited by ArticMonkey, 11 June 2014 - 10:06 PM.

[Moschops]

I'm pretty sure it's just a failed bit of solder on the cheater. I can see a mark where the leg of one of the resistors was attached but now isn't.

 

You're right though, I was unpleasantly surprised at how untidy the wiring was. It looks like there is more insulation tape than wire!

[deano01]

Hi Neil, if you want to borrow my scangauge your more than welcome. I am working away however your more than welcome to go and help your self the car should be open. the missis is in most days too. Pm me

[Moschops]

Thanks for the off, but I've fixed it! I got one of the sparkies at work to resolder the failed joint then refitted the cheater before driving home. I managed to reset the EML with the Dash Command app (it won't read the code, but seems to reset it OK). Drove all the way home and the light stayed off.  

 

Just the pax window to fix now...

[ArticMonkey]

Now that won't be so easy..... hence why i never got round to it.

[Moschops]

I've spent about two hours over the past 2 night fiddling with the window - very frustrating. I've had the door trim out, the outer seal off and various tools plus a steel ruler poked around inside the door, still can't shift the bloody thing.   I can see that the upper front window mount is jamming on something around the runner, and I know it's probably the top runner mounting screw, but as yet I've not figured out how to get enough access to free up the sticking bit.

 

I won't be beaten. Hopefully.

[ArticMonkey]

Might be getting stuck on the mirror plinth bolts as when I changed them it stopped working once done up. Only problem is you need the window down to get at them.

[Moschops]

Window now sorted too. It was the cap head bolt you used in the mirror. I removed the 2 bolts I could get to, then wiggled the window and mirror around until the window dropped. Bolt replaced. Job done.