Just pmed my email address can you forward log to me please Chris
thanks Chris
email sent
Posted 22 August 2014 - 03:51 PM
Just pmed my email address can you forward log to me please Chris
thanks Chris
email sent
Posted 22 August 2014 - 03:52 PM
Posted 22 August 2014 - 03:56 PM
I gave you a bogus email address pmed you the correct onethanks Chris email sentJust pmed my email address can you forward log to me please Chris
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:03 PM
Chris
thanks for taking a look , can you explain that graph to a numpty please. and also some idea of the how big a leak I would need to give that graph and the symptoms I'm getting.
tomorrow, I'm planing on checking the brake servo pipework and the fuel carbon canister pipes as those are the only two ways I can see I have a leak, everything else seems tight??
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:05 PM
have you got gaskets between all the 4 options
1. throttle bodie - charger (normally green gasket)
2.charger - manifold (metal square gasket )
3.manifold - head (metal gasket)
4. charger dump gasket (small green gasket)
5. injector rubbers not present
6. brake vacuume on throttle bodie
7. on back of throttle bodie there is a other outlet normally to fuel breather system
8. also could be the actual valve in the charger dump (should be completely closed when you remove charger)
Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 22 August 2014 - 07:12 PM.
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:14 PM
red line shows throttle body opening position in % should be 10%ish
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:28 PM
gaskets all present and correct.
might have a check of the bypass valve! any ideas how I can confirm either good or bad?
the throttle butterfly does appear to be slightly open at all times , with just the ignition on it opens fully when the pedal is pressed , but with the engine running it opens for a fraction of a second and then closes again (not fully)
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:36 PM
the dump valve/ bypass should be closed
you can see it if you look from under the supercharger down the small hole
you adjust it from the outside of charger the black thing with pipes on them
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:48 PM
going back to the red graph line .
my reading is
the throttle is open 32(ish)% I then started the engine and it closes to about 15% for about 15 seconds and then open up again to 30%.
this would match the engine behaviour , starts well sounds good for 15 seconds (and the pedal works) and then starts misfiring (and the pedal stops working)
Now is the throttle position causing the misfire or is the misfire the cause of the throttle position .
also to confirm
this was the throttle rewire i used
Original
DCBA
HGFE
repinned
DGHA
BCEF
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:52 PM
D C B A ..... ==> ....... D G H A H G F E ..... ==> ....... B C E F
seems right
im only guessing here but i think the TB is reacting to somthing else
Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:59 PM
Could you post a current photo of the engine bay?
Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:00 PM
really frustrating as I am sure I have done all correctly , but now getting to the point where I am doubting my work and that way madness lies.
what could be faulty? (other than the fitter)
how often do TB crap out? or bypass valves? or MAP sensors?
Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:02 PM
Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:03 PM
Could you post a current photo of the engine bay?
can do tomorrow, the car is at my Folks Place (bigger garage)
what are you looking for , I will be able to tell you what is connected to what, I would expect (it all came out again today to be double checked)
chris
yup thats blocked off
Edited by TIP, 22 August 2014 - 08:04 PM.
Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:08 PM
loving your paint skills ,
yup turned a bung up on the lathe and then remembered I had paid CMS for their vastly overpriced one
Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:13 PM
did you modify the map sensor rubber to seal correctly ??
no painting skills for this idea
Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:23 PM
did you modify the map sensor rubber to seal correctly ??
no painting skills for this idea
yup used the patented "joe" mod with some insulting tape
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