176 replies to this topic

[fezzasus]

so it's fuel or spark, and with the fuel pressure being okay they both come down to a electrical problem.

 

Matt's suggestion of looking at the immobiliser is a good one, however I don't know where to go from there. Before you get to that point I would unplug everything that has anything to do with ignition, spray it with contact cleaner and put it back. Loom of doom plugs, injector plugs, coil pack plugs. Has it been stored inside or out, the latter would have me checking the plugs very carefully for corrosion.

 

Also check the relays and fuses, again spray with contact cleaner and replace. It's usually moisture that kills stationary cars.

[TIP]

thanks mate 

 

its been inside so its all dry in there, but certainly worth a good poke around the entire electrical system (BAH! I hate electrickery) 

 

any advice on checking for a spark?

 

[fezzasus]

Pull the coil pack off and check the contacts with a bulb?

 

 

[Arno]

the engine itself cranks over really fast,

 

Very fast crank speed can mean no or low compression in the engine.  Bores washed out with fuel?

 

Could try pulling the sparkplugs and squirting a little oil in each cylinder to restore the compression. Refit plugs and retry. It should crank at a normal speed then.

 

Edit: no other noises? (cam chain issue? )

 

Bye, Arno.

Edited by Arno, 01 January 2015 - 10:41 AM.

[TIP]

Hi Arno

 

sorry bad description, engine cranks over at the right speed, I meant that the battery is good and is cranking it over properly.

 

no other 'expensive' noises

 

pretty sure its an electrickery problem (and I don't like finding those !!!!)

 

 

 

[TIP]

latest findings

 

• no error codes showing on ECU
• all boot relays cleaned up and refitted 
• all the various connectors pulled apart wiggled and reconnected 
• its too cold to work on cars 
• it still does not start.

 

 

bloody cars 

Edited by TIP, 11 January 2015 - 01:09 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Have you got your lap top connected yet ?? If so read ECU to PC, Save file And email it to me along with your spec could be something simple in there

[TIP]

after much faffing about, the status is still cant connect to the ecu

I have had it connected (using my Dad's laptop so I know the cable works)

 

but so far I have tried 

1. Samsung N150 netbook. (win7)

2 relocated desktop to the garage (win7)

3 My main Laptop (win8)

 

all nothing

the following are screen shots from the win 8 attempt, do they point at any obvious mistakes.

 

for each computer I tried just connecting the cable and letting windoze work out the installation when that failed I followed the following instructions http://www.totalcard...ware#changeport.

 

I then uninstalled all available drivers and restarted and tried again, and again , Grrrrrr

then tried changing port numbers still nothing.

 

will get hold of my Dad's laptop next week and see if that still works 

 

 

edited because I thought it was bad form to publish the license key on a public forum

and just found this that points to the code 10 error (fake cable???)

http://www.prolific...._id=225&pcid=41

 

Edited by TIP, 11 January 2015 - 04:22 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Give me 5 and I will screen shot my settings

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

[TIP]

can you check what it shows in the device manager please 

 

thanks for all the help

 

and what cable you have 

 

this is what I have http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3cbe165600

Edited by TIP, 11 January 2015 - 04:35 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

[TIP]

all looks the same , other than I have the code 10 error in the device manager tree.

 

other than the port 3/port 5 difference , but cant see how that would make a difference as long as OBD2 is looking at the correct port????

 

my guess is the cable is fecked , will check with the one laptop that it has worked on before buying another.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

try it just with the cable not connecte[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]d to car[/color]

 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]do you have a [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]driver on [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]disc for cable ??[/color]

[haggi961]

Has anyone got the EGR input rates for the software using a Aem wideband ?

[TIP]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]do you have a [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]driver on [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]disc for cable ??[/color]

 

I cant find the discs that came with the cable (been some major decorating going on at home since last time I saw the disc) but have used the drivers listed here to no avail

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Try to set bit rate to 9600 I think it is in device manager and software