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Noisy Evap Valve


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#1 Sutol

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 06:23 AM

The evap valve has got really noisy. Has anyone changed one? Is it a clam off job or can you get to it via the wheel arch? How much are they? etc etc TIA

#2 techieboy

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 06:30 AM

I've changed one and you can do it through the wheelarch, Chris. It's a bit awkward as it has those horrible hose clips designed by the devil, so be prepared for a scrape or two. No idea what the cost of the solenoid on it's own is as I got a secondhand one complete with the charcoal canister.

#3 Sutol

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 07:40 AM

Thanks Matt, I won't do it I'll get BOT to do it if there's a risk of injury. Was yours making a horrible clattering noise at startup and then disappearing after a while?



#4 siztenboots

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 08:12 AM

how do you plumb in your EVAP with vacuum , on the SC setup

#5 Sutol

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 08:44 AM

how do you plumb in your EVAP with vacuum , on the SC setup

err there were no alterations made over the NA setup. This system is a mystery to me. This clattering noise comes from the area of the evap valve ie over the right shoulder. It's always been there but it's much worse now. Should alterations been made when SCing?



#6 P11 COV

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 08:46 AM

whats an EVAP valve and whats does it do?



#7 siztenboots

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 08:46 AM

bleeds fumes from the fuel tank / filler via a carbon canister , using vacuum in the manifold and then burnt

#8 Sutol

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:02 AM

so how does this system get the fumes into the intake?



#9 p13

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:12 AM

so how does this system get the fumes into the intake?

 

It gets sucked in to the intake through vacuum.  The valve opens periodically.



#10 p13

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:13 AM

how do you plumb in your EVAP with vacuum , on the SC setup

 

I've simply removed mine, and plan to bridge the connector with a resistor.



#11 techieboy

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:20 AM

Was yours making a horrible clattering noise at startup and then disappearing after a while?

No, no noises or anything from mine. I was just trying to solve a persistent P0440 EML code that I get every start up. Didn't make a difference so I think it's probably a wiring fault with the cable that gets extended for the SC conversion.

#12 Sutol

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:47 AM

 

so how does this system get the fumes into the intake?

 

It gets sucked in to the intake through vacuum.  The valve opens periodically.

 

before the TB or after it? the valve opens relative to the engine speed, is this right?



#13 p13

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:53 AM

 

 

so how does this system get the fumes into the intake?

 

It gets sucked in to the intake through vacuum.  The valve opens periodically.

 

before the TB or after it? the valve opens relative to the engine speed, is this right?

 

 

After it.  There is no vacuum before the TB.

I think it just opens and closes fully.  It probably pulses open and shut.

The plug for it is just two wires.  Electrically, it's very simple.



#14 rickyzero

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 05:04 PM

Thanks Matt, I won't do it I'll get BOT to do it if there's a risk of injury. Was yours making a horrible clattering noise at startup and then disappearing after a while?

Could it be described as a loud ticking noise from over your right shoulder? I'm wondering if the evap valve could be my issue. I've changed everything else!

#15 Sutol

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 08:16 PM

 

Thanks Matt, I won't do it I'll get BOT to do it if there's a risk of injury. Was yours making a horrible clattering noise at startup and then disappearing after a while?

Could it be described as a loud ticking noise from over your right shoulder? I'm wondering if the evap valve could be my issue. I've changed everything else!

 

sounds like it, changes with engine speed. The noise is only at startup and goes after a few miles but its got worse and sounds like the lltte  ends have gone,



#16 siztenboots

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Posted 07 August 2014 - 07:23 AM

if you could find the vacuum pipe that feeds it , and pinch it off to block it, then see if ticking is still there from cold.

#17 rickyzero

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Posted 07 August 2014 - 03:44 PM

if you could find the vacuum pipe that feeds it , and pinch it off to block it, then see if ticking is still there from cold.

 

Ah will give this a try. Is the vacuum pipe accessible from the engine bay do you know?

 

Also, if it is the valve, what part am I looking for. Is it number 34 on this diagram?



#18 siztenboots

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Posted 08 August 2014 - 07:45 AM

Posted Image



#19 siztenboots

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Posted 08 August 2014 - 07:51 AM

while trying to eliminate vacuum leaks at high vacuum , low engine load , ie. fuel economy cruising.

 

I blanked off the vacuum feed to my EVAP system ( just by the manifold ) , and I get noticeably better mpg. 280miles from a tank is not unusual, with a 32L fill up brimmed.

 



#20 sammyt

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Posted 08 August 2014 - 01:51 PM

I changed mine was easy to do and access through the wheel arch. My symptoms were the same as yours plus I had a uneven tick over due to the leaking vacuum caused by the valve passing. Changed this valve out for a new OEM one at 25 quid and it fixed all my problems in 10 minutes




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