36 replies to this topic

[Pipo]

Oops, I forgot to attach the circuit diagram . Here it is.

[Pipo]

And oh yes, before I forget. The transistors I used are old types. I just used them because I had them on stock. But any electronic store can deliver you similar but modern types.

[Jim_Cross]

The only catted exhaust that I know which had MIL light problems was one of the Janspeed ones, and that was put down to a dodgy sensor. I think what you're doing is probably perfectly safe, as long as it's done correctly. Sinclaire told me that they could provide a simple solution to get round the MIL light problem if running without a cat. I guess they do this on Elises

[clipping_point]

Oops, I forgot to attach the circuit diagram . Here it is.

Nice engineered! To really benefit from eliminating the cat I guess u should have a stand-alone injection system. Then u can start running the engine rich and gain 5-10 % only by that. U have seen those race and rally cross cars with flaming exhaust pipes, thats what I´m talking about

[Pipo]

Allthough an Opel-engineer had told me the 2nd probe produced a signal of 0,700 Volt, the last 200 km I had been driving with the signal-strenght set on 0,500 Volt. Today after a very racy drive, the EML-light suddenly came on again. So I will be adjusting the signal back to the 700 millivolt like it originally was. (The possibility exists of course that the warning light is coming on for a whole different reason ) We'll see.

[Pipo]

IMPORTANT! Via TIS I found out why the EML is coming on again despite my little electronic probesignal producer. The ECU is not only monitoring if the 2nd probesignal is present, he also checks if the probe heating works properly!!! And because I disconnected the 2nd probe completely and used the ECU heating wires as powersupply for my electronic device, the ECU detects the missing probeheater! Reconnecting only the probe heating wires (the 2 white ones) so the heater works, and use my simulator to produce a probe signal, should cure the problem of the EML coming on again. I'll keep you updated of the result as soon as I can get my left-rear wheel off, because I lost that damned key to loosen the security-wheelbolts

Edited by Pipo, 22 September 2004 - 08:22 PM.

[skogshuggarn]

Got the same problem....
http://www.vx220.org...=0

[cicastol]

Look here:
http://www.zx2racing...rticles/mil.htm


This circuit need only 2 component to make the mil eliminators!!!

[cicastol]

Look here:
http://www.zx2racing...rticles/mil.htm


This circuit need only 2 component to make the mil eliminators!!!

ZX2racing tips don't work!!!!

Now i've done over 1000km without cat (decatted) with this

http://www.o2sim.com/

And no MIL light on again!!

[Pipo]

Of course there is a simple way to produce the 450 mv signal. You can bring down the 12Vdc with a resistor and a condensor. But I wouldn't recommand it. My circuit will provide a stable output voltage, even it the supply voltage varies between 5Volt and 30 Volts! This means that when the voltage stabilizer of your car breaks down and the on-board voltage shoot up, there is no way your ECU will get an input voltage that is to high. And this is very important, because the ECU is protected against a general supply voltage that is to high (in certain limites); but the input port of the probe signal is not! Meaning that if the artificial probe signal goes up to let's say 25 Volts, you can say goodbye to your ECU and dig up some heavy cash to replace it! I admit it doesn't happen a lot that the powerregulator of a car breaks down, but it happened 2 months ago on my wifes Opel Astra. So I don't consider myself as paranoid Also if in the circuit I developed a component breakes down, it still won't get the output voltage up! (Theoretacly of course everything is possible, but then you can win the lotto also 3 times on a row ) When I removed my maincat, I had a problem with the EML light coming on. And because no one could help me, I made my own solution. And I presented it on this board. You don't have to follow it. Everyone is free to do what he wants. And with this I rest my case If someones interested, I made a file with all info included in english. I'll can simply mail it in a blink of an eye. Bye the way. I drove about 1500 km with my circuit like it is now, and it worked perfectly. But you have to leave the heater wires of the probe connected, or also simulate a heater working. Because the ECU also checkes the probes heater function, not only the oxygen analysing function. Happy Newyear to you all, people. Pipo

[speedster]

Hi Pipo. Is this O2 sim device of yours still connected? If so could you please email me the details, in English please

[Muncher]

Hi Pipo. Is this O2 sim device of yours still connected? If so could you please email me the details, in English please

www.o2sim.com


I have one and it seems to be working.

[The Knobs]

I just took the dash bulb out, hey presto, no engine management light.

[JayK]

Excellent work Pipo. Im now a over a year on and with my Second VX with a De-cat.

[Muncher]

I just took the dash bulb out, hey presto, no engine management light.

How will you know if you have any real problems?

[Pipo]

Hi Pipo. Is this O2 sim device of yours still connected?

No it's not. It performed fine, untill I crashed my NA last september
My new Turbo still has the original exhaust under it, so no need to mount my o²-sim for now.

PS What more details do you need then those mentionned in this topic?

Edited by Pipo, 07 January 2006 - 12:07 AM.

[christurbo]

The Elise S2 has a MIL eliminator available from Eliseparts....... resistor tecnology