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Niggle | Potential Engine Mounts/suspension Issue

engine mounts suspension

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#21 909

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 08:14 PM

Another potential knock noise at the rear left side, is caused by the aircleaner housing rubber isolator mountings breaking allowing the housing to contact the rear subframe.


Edited by 909, 09 December 2014 - 08:15 PM.


#22 Potatoes

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 08:20 PM

My word... This is becoming a long list of things to check! Thank you for all the pieces to check, I'm sure I'm going to find a few of these points that need fixing...

#23 SteveA

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 04:33 PM

Start by swapping the rear shocks left to right, if the problem swaps sides it's your shocks. A free way of ruling them out.



#24 FLD

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 04:55 PM

Start by swapping the rear shocks left to right, if the problem swaps sides it's your shocks. A free way of ruling them out.

:yeahthat:



#25 Potatoes

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 11:25 AM

Rather than prat around trying to find the issue with my very limited knowledge I popped over to see jonnyboy to get his input. He took it for a quick spin and had a look around.

 

The good:

  • Suspension seems good (although ridiculously low) - phew

The bad:

  • Nearside engine mount is perished
  • Slight radiator leak - it's still on it's original 12 year old OEM radiator

Based on this, I'm going to replace the near and offside mounts, get a new OEM radiator, fit a new header tank and get the suspension geo'd when I fit my TD's...

 

When I say "I'm going" What I mean is I'm going to have to pay someone to as I'm not that mechanically skilled yet and want to make sure it's done right.

 

So Jon, as long as you're happy, there's some business coming your way in the NY!



#26 siztenboots

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 11:29 AM

engine mounts are easy , especially the gearbox side



#27 Potatoes

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 11:40 AM

Yeah, they look relatively easy looking at the guides and threads I've seen. I won't have anywhere to do the work on it until March so will take it in to get a few jobs done at once.



#28 vocky

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 12:49 PM

 

Based on this, I'm going to get a new OEM radiator 

whatever you do, DO NOT fit another OEM rad, they are shite.

 

Get an alloy rad £216 inc vat from eliseparts  thumbsup

 

http://www.elisepart...ssure-radiator/



#29 fezzasus

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 12:53 PM

and replace the NS radiator hose when it is done with a silicon one too.



#30 Potatoes

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 01:52 PM

 

 

Based on this, I'm going to get a new OEM radiator 

whatever you do, DO NOT fit another OEM rad, they are shite.

 

Get an alloy rad £216 inc vat from eliseparts  thumbsup

 

http://www.elisepart...ssure-radiator/

 

 

There's no way I'd scoff at any advice from you Vocky, you clearly know you shizzle! I read and hear differing views on this, some say that the alloys are better but others say they're too flimsy/weak and not worth the extra money for what they deliver... this is a confusing world for a newbie sometimes!

 

Will look at that rad and appreciate the very clear guidance :)


Edited by Potatoes, 15 December 2014 - 01:52 PM.


#31 slindborg

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 04:24 PM

OEM rad will last anywhere between 0 and 12years, Ali rad will do the same BUT much less likely to sh*t its load when you are the furthest away from society with no mobile phone coverage.



#32 Frosty34

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 08:45 PM

seriously the engine mount is probably one of the easiest jobs you can do! its best way to learn. I did mine on the drive, in the rain with a tarp over the top of me lol



#33 jonnyboy

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 09:29 PM

Just give me a shout as and when. :D

 

Can fit either rad. I see a lot of cars and the OEM ones tend to be better than people think. Loads going strong at 8/9/10 and more years old.  If you want to spend more money its no problem to me lol

 

The replacement hose is a good idea though. Eliseparts and Elise shop both do good replacements. 



#34 slindborg

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 09:51 PM

How long do you warranty an oem plastic rad including the labour to remove it if it let's go in that time? :lol: The problem with the oem rads is that they are randomly lifed

#35 jonnyboy

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 09:59 PM

Same as an alloy one :D

 

Maybe they improved the alloy ones but when they first sprung up (no pun intended) people were having 2/3 replacements in as many years with leaks. Ever since then I've just used standard ones. 



#36 vocky

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 09:40 AM

I purchased my vx220 when it was just 3.5 years old, it was on it's THIRD oem rad  :mellow:

 

I fitted an alloy rad eight years ago and stopped worrying  :P



#37 Tony H

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 09:55 AM

I fitted an alloy rad eight years ago and stopped driving  :P



#38 fezzasus

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:23 AM

Same as an alloy one :D

 

Maybe they improved the alloy ones but when they first sprung up (no pun intended) people were having 2/3 replacements in as many years with leaks. Ever since then I've just used standard ones. 

 

I've been using an elise parts one since 2010 without issue.

 

The simple fact is, the expansion rates of plastic and aluminium are different, so you will always have a point of failure with a plastic capped radiator. Put heat through it, the aluminium expands and the plastic stays the same size, this is where you spring a leak.

 

The other comment I would make Jon, is the time you own a car for relative to others on this forum is very short, so the likelihood of actually experiencing an issue in that time is low.


Edited by fezzasus, 16 December 2014 - 10:25 AM.


#39 jonnyboy

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 03:59 PM

Thats fair comment but I do get a lot of Lotus cars coming in with black rads which were phased out in about 2003 and dont very often see anything in the histories for replaced rads so the majority of them I would say are trooping on for 10+ years. 







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