55 replies to this topic

[Dollon]

So since buying my VX220 I've planned a good few mods and started a few already.

 

A little run down of the car where it was when I got it, where it is now, and what I have planned short term and long term.

I will update this periodically with pictures and details on what I've done,

 

 

This is how I've picked it up

• 127k miles 2.2 N/A
• Reasonable service history, brilliant up to last owner change really.
• Awful painted standard white wheels
• New disks and pads.
• Spax Suspension.
• Turbo spoiler
• A few other little bits and pieces 

 

So upon picking the car up (Saturday afternoon), I noticed a few problems instantly. Before puchasing I'd noticed a slight bit water in the floor, the owner claimed it was from washing the car the night before (Have since resealed and no leaks)

 

After setting off I found out the heater did not work AT ALL.

Driving 5 hours from Birmingham to the north was chilly and my feet were freezing.

There is also an annoying rattle coming from the front. About 1/3rd of the way home The EML light came on, as well as the ABS light. Which prompted a stop on the hard shoulder, joined 30 seconds later by motorway police.

After a short conversation, and digging out the code reader we found that the car had had the EGR removed and the ABS seems to be from a bad connection to one of the sensors on the wheels. - More to come on that.

 

Eventually made it home and warmed up, feet eventually recovered feeling.

 

Sunday morning came and the first jobs were made

• Fix that damn heater
• Clear the water out of the inside
• Wash
• Good suspension and bearing check

So after finding the problem with the heater. The link pipe from the heater, to the inlet was almost non existent. Basically was a corrugated metal pipe with more holes and splits then anything else. Not sealed on either end and cold air blowing straight into the cabin.

With it being a Sunday, and me needing the car for work 6am Monday, I had to improvise.

This is the result

 

[Insert picture of heater "fix" here]

 

After measuring the Inside diameter of the heater outlet, and the cabin inlet, I realised that common drainpipe would fit snugly inside. So a full length of drainpipe and some bends later, the above was made, sealed together with some plastic cement, pushed tidily inside and just overly covered with tape for now. A better fix will be implemented in the future, but for now, works lovely.

 

Whilst waiting for the drainpipe to return, I had a helper strip the interior out and clean the inside. Below the seats we found some soggy chew sweets, a McDonalds chip in surprising condition given the amount of time it looks to have been there. And a CD. The wiring for the aftermarket speakers and sub was also raggy and badly done, so they got tidied up and run with the cars harness neatly and out of sight.

 

The crap got scraped up and cleaned, and the interior replaced.

 

The rest of the interior will be lined with Dynamat and carpet at some point in time to make the journey back and forward to work (some 50 miles a day) much more bearable. Shouldn't add much weight by the time its done, but will be a fair bit insulation. 

 

This was followed with an inspection of the roof/door seal, to which several problems were noted, and some suitable cleaner and then glue were applied to return the seal to factory. 

 

The evening finished with a very quick car wash, and an inspection of the paint and body work. All marks noted and checked against any work previously carried out. The decision has been made to re-paint the car in the not to distant future, rather than spend any time with the machine polisher cutting the paint and bringing back up a good finish. 

 

Along with the rebuild will come an engine rebuild, full suspension overhaul and near enough a full nut and bolt rebuild of the entire car. Depending on funds at the time, some sort of forced induction will be added to the engine. 

 

Anyway, back to the short term.

 

The headlights were deemed, for want of a better word, SH*T, and HID's were ordered for the low and main beam. 55W AC H7's and H1's should sort that problem out.

 

 

I pulled out the drivers side headlights, and managed to sort the HID's in no time. Passenger side wasn't as easy, pulled the light out to see no plug, only push together crimp connectors, and terrible ones at that.

So began the snowy re wiring of the plug. 

Maplins provided for once and I purchased this to replace the plug.

I cut it down to a 6 pin plug once all the wires were in and done.

Female

Male

 

These will at least allow me to unplug the lights as and when I want.

Anyway, after an hour or so, the HID's were fitted, with the lights up and running

 

 

Some headlight covers will be sourced in the near future, I believe Fez's set available on eBay will be the most likely fix. I plan on painting the cluster anthracite, to match the wheels which will be painted shortly, before new lenses added.

 

So 2 weeks in, the car is slowly going through the changes required to bring it back to the standard it deserves. With many more "fixes" and modifications planned in the near future. 

 

Next on the list, Order an Exige wing for it to hopefully stop that pesky back end sliding as much. 

Hopefully the snow will stop so I can get to work in the morning. 

 

thanks for reading the wall of text, pictures will be added in the next day or two where required, apologies for the size of the images, will re size soon, and the quality.

 

 

Edited by Dollon, 13 January 2015 - 08:03 PM.

[GiGo]

Looks like a nice neat job on the head lights, you do realise you have no head light lenses right?

[fezzasus]

Don't add dynamat to the interior. It will trap water between the dynamat and aluminium, leading to corrosion. Most people add carpet for a bit of sound insulation, as it's at least breathable.

[Claws]

If the back end is sliding about so much, I would recommend getting decent fresh rear tyres and an alignment check, before spending money on non functioning aero placebos.

[Lou_m]

 

It's all about the geo on these cars. Oh and good luck with the rest of your project.

[siztenboots]

even for road use, I would put on a splitter and the 1" arb first

 

replace the spax with something else , which is part of a much bigger decision on setup.

[Judderman]

Nice fire, might copy that

[Arno]

 you do realise you have no head light lenses right?

 

Ding!

 

I'd get new lenses from the initiative on here pronto as the headlights are not a sealed design at all and the (rain)water now has full access to the headlight insides and will corrode/rust everything and perhaps even cause shorts.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Dollon]

Looks like a nice neat job on the head lights, you do realise you have no head light lenses right?

 

Yeah Its quite obvious from the picture, I have One upstairs but will need to order a fresh pair. Apparently been like that for several years.

 

Don't add dynamat to the interior. It will trap water between the dynamat and aluminium, leading to corrosion. Most people add carpet for a bit of sound insulation, as it's at least breathable.

 

Thanks for the heads up

 

If the back end is sliding about so much, I would recommend getting decent fresh rear tyres and an alignment check, before spending money on non functioning aero placebos.

 

Going to be putting the original suspension back on once it arrives from the last owner, Will do a quick rebuild of them first. But it looks like the standard stuff was swapped out quite low miles. So should still be reasonable condition.

Tyres are near enough new on the back. and with the weather being the way it is, it's understandable the back end slides a bit. That and I occasionally do it on purpose

[siztenboots]

if its going to be track only, then take off the lights

[Dollon]

if its going to be track only, then take off the lights

 

Long term its going to be track. But for the next year its going to be a daily. I'm going to make it comfortable and usable for now. The the full rebuild will focus on weight saving and track prep

[Claws]

On a side note, I really have to push my NA to make it step out, even in the wet. (Bilsteins, Bridgestones and a tweak to the setup) Are they Bridgestones on the back?

[Dollon]

On a side note, I really have to push my NA to make it step out, even in the wet. (Bilsteins, Bridgestones and a tweak to the setup)
Are they Bridgestones on the back?

 

Yeah Bridgestones, 6mm on them. no uneven wear. 

 

Not had the tracking checked, as going to stick stock suspension back on first.

 

Takes a little bit to get it to slide, but I am conscious of how easy it can go, hence driving it very carefully in the wet.

 

 

When I had the RX8 I spun it out on a roundabout so I've been careful ever since.

 

Result

 

[Mangham54]

How old are the tyres? Tread may be good, but if they are more than 2yrs old you might aswell spread them with butter.

[Dollon]

How old are the tyres? Tread may be good, but if they are more than 2yrs old you might aswell spread them with butter.

 

No idea, will look into it. No history on the tyre change date. 

[Mangham54]

Have a look at the codes on the tyres... They give the week and year of manufacture

[Dollon]

So having been browsing various engine options, from turbo's to ITB's and superchargers I found this

 

an M112 Eaton Supercharger

 

It's a second hand unit, but from a low mileage vehicle.

 

Would this be suitable for use on the Z22SE engine or would it provide too much boost? I can adapt an intake to make it fit and it comes with a TB already attached.

 

Could this be avoided by running a larger pulley or would this then result in lag or not enough boost at all?

 

Any supercharger Guru's???

[Dollon]

Have a look at the codes on the tyres... They give the week and year of manufacture

 

Tyres are 6 months old by manufacture date. so I think suspension setup is in order.

 

Once the standard suspension arrives I'll be sticking that on. And going for full allignment

[smiley]

 

Could this be avoided by running a larger pulley or would this then result in lag or not enough boost at all?

 

 

The M62 is a 1.0 liter supercharger, the harrop TVS a 1.3 liter, and the M112 is a 1.8 liter.

I think it´s a bit big for our brave little 2.2 engine.

 

Edited by smiley, 18 January 2015 - 09:33 PM.

[Dollon]

 

 

Could this be avoided by running a larger pulley or would this then result in lag or not enough boost at all?

 

 

The M62 is a 1.0 liter supercharger, the harrop TVS a 1.3 liter, and the M112 is a 1.8 liter.

I think it´s a bit big for our brave little 2.2 engine.

 

 

Yes but the M62 is running its nuts off to provide the airflow.

 

Maybe an m90 could be the right size if geared right I think.

 

Forging the engine may be required and run a little more boost than originally intended.

But picking up an M90 supercharger seems easier and cheaper than the M62, just the supporting mods that go with it.

 

So for M62 prices supplied by known distributors. £3500 +

 

I can have an M90

• M90 supercharger + TB 2nd hand £300-500 depending
• Intake Manifold £unsure of fit yet, will make
• Forged internals £1300
• VXR Injectors - £140
• Fuel pump - £50ish
• Intake - sub £100 Home made
• Exhaust - Getting custom Quote this Week from local specialists who did my old mans 46 Fordson, Expected sub £500

Total a little over £2k