2139 replies to this topic

[FLD]

Floating liners just like the z22. Wonder how stable they are?

[Aerodynamic]

No block guards?

[The Batman]

Floating liners just like the z22. Wonder how stable they are?

The standard bottom end of a k20 can handle 400bhp!

[Aerodynamic]

For how long? I had bad luck with my old block so I safed on this one.

Edited by Aerodynamic, 13 January 2016 - 08:24 PM.

[The Batman]

Not sure but meant to be pretty reliable. No idea on true figures on a accurate rolling road though

[Baron Von Scubadaddy]

......starts to worry ..............

[Baron Von Scubadaddy]

fcuk it get the dremel out !!!!!

 

[Arno]

Floating liners just like the z22. Wonder how stable they are?

 

Not floating. They are iron/steel liners that the block is basically cast around. They are ridged on the outside and permanentlly fixed in the block.

 

To exchange the liners/cylinders for bigger ones (eg. Darton sleeves) you need to do stuff like this to the block:

 

 

And then press new liners into the base of the block for really big bores or a closed-deck construction for increased upper cylinder strenghth with very high boost applications.

 

Bye, Arno.

Edited by Arno, 14 January 2016 - 07:44 AM.

[The Batman]

Chassis is clean.

Hopefully only have to do that once every 19 years

Few more parts come for my Vx header tank conversion!



Manifold titanium wrapped

Edited by The Batman, 14 January 2016 - 02:34 PM.

[FLD]

Floating liners just like the z22. Wonder how stable they are?

  Not floating. They are iron/steel liners that the block is basically cast around. They are ridged on the outside and permanentlly fixed in the block.   To exchange the liners/cylinders for bigger ones (eg. Darton sleeves) you need to do stuff like this to the block:     And then press new liners into the base of the block for really big bores or a closed-deck construction for increased upper cylinder strenghth with very high boost applications.   Bye, Arno.

Do these blocks break in half with all that material removed? Heard of a few darton Lsj blocks failing this way.

[The Batman]

New alli driveshaft guard, the one fitted was stainless steel and had cracked around all of the mounting holes.

Used a bit of metal from work, already had lightweight race holes in it

[Exmantaa]

 

 

Floating liners just like the z22. Wonder how stable they are?  

  Not floating. They are iron/steel liners that the block is basically cast around. They are ridged on the outside and permanentlly fixed in the block.   To exchange the liners/cylinders for bigger ones (eg. Darton sleeves) you need to do stuff like this to the block:     And then press new liners into the base of the block for really big bores or a closed-deck construction for increased upper cylinder strenghth with very high boost applications.   Bye, Arno.

 

Do these blocks break in half with all that material removed? Heard of a few darton Lsj blocks failing this way.

 

 

And not to mention the lesser cylinder cooling the Darton blocks seem to have. According ZZP they run hotter and are more phrone to knock... (Not really a problem on the drag strip, more so when you track it... )  

[The Batman]

Finally my oil pump chain arrived

[Arno]

 

Do these blocks break in half with all that material removed? Heard of a few darton Lsj blocks failing this way.

 

 

Never heard of that issue with the Honda K20/K24 blocks that got this treatment (other stuff though like coolant leaks and bad headgasket seals.. yes...). I guess the wall thickness of the block itself and at the bottom is still sufficient to keep it in check.

 

Some of the girdles used to make closed decks are pressed and welded into the block too although that does carry the risk of the block warping too much to ever work again.

 

Converting from open to closed deck blocks usually need a careful tradeoff between strength and cooling as indeed the flow to the cylinder head can become compromised if the openings get too small while you do get more upper cylinder strength to resist high pressures. Balancing act...

 

But as with much US based stuff it's important to remember that many, many of their high power/boost/nitrous builds (irrespective of brand/engine/type) are built for drag-race or similar use, so these engines see max power only about 10 seconds at a time and are called 'reliable' if they do 50 or so 'pulls' before needing work.

 

We, on this side of the pond, have this funny idea of wanting to drive cars fast in circles on tracks for loooooong times and a number of bits that work great on a drag engine are ummm.. not that great on a track car

 

Bye, Arno.

[The Batman]

A few more pics:

[The Batman]

Engine is back together and bolted to the gesrbox

Fixed a water leak aswell and blanked off the pipe work that runs coolant through the intake manifold.

Had a nice painted cam cover until greasy mits kept touching it :lol. Will give it a light paint again still better than the gay red though!

[Aerodynamic]

You got PM? Where does any water on the k20a2 head pass the intake manifold? Any picture?

[r2mlb]

Look at that lovely cream carpet... Ruined. The missus is gonna kill you, could have built that in the garage!

[The Batman]

Apologies for the late reply

The throttle body and intake manifold have a flow of hot coolant through them so I suggest you blank them off.

Here is a couple of photos of the intake manifold





Not the best as I was in a hurry!

[Aerodynamic]

Dont have that on my engine. But have water thru the intake into the head where you have a separate water port. Br, Per