706 replies to this topic

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

What does that look like on the outside It never went like that at zandy It got a burst in it

[fezzasus]

Apparently it doesn't look any different.

[siztenboots]

there should be a tubed bellows , with the braided reinforment on the outside

[MartinS]

Took the exhaust apart this morning (lucky I work for myself) and it all looked fine.

Took it to a local guy who makes race exhausts and using a camera everything looked fine including the cat and the flexi joint area, it had not blown apart. 

The problem was where it bolts onto the manifold, that had thin cracks around 60% of its circumference and also cracked vertically in 3 places where the welds were and would have fallen apart totally within the next few hundred miles, glad back on track spotted that.  Either way, the exhaust system is not being pressurised. Inside all looked good.

All fixed now and going back on tomorrow. The previous exhaust system coped with 260 bhp, this pile of s%*t engine is at best producing the same or less and my exhaust system is better than it was before.

My next thing is to fit another throttle body. The one that was fitted when the engine went in has been hit hard at some point and the butterfly does not fit the opening properly compared with the other one I here that I borrowed off Bargi.

 

My oil was changed 3 times in the first 1000 miles with the correct oils for the running in procedure and now runs on mobil 1 0-40 fully synthetic.

All coolant looks clear and clean.

 

Martin

Edited by MartinS, 16 November 2015 - 03:12 PM.

[The Batman]

Would grab a leak down test or bore scope it at some point

[Exmantaa]

The US LSJ engine specs a 5W30 oil type, but I cannot imagine your 0W40 making a massive difference.

(Was the Z22SE not 10W40?)

 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I personally use 5w 40 Just for your info

[fezzasus]

Vauxhall/Opel Factory Fill is 5W-30 - meaning this is what they trust, lubricant viscosity really doesn't have much of an impact on performance. We've seen 0W-20 oils perform much better than 20W-50 grad oils. 

[MartinS]

ecotec was 10-40 Valvoline.

I run this engine with the oil depth at the 2nd marker on the stick and this is the point at which I base oil loss or not.

 

Martin

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Second notch is good 👍 I'm running out of ideas Martin engine inspection looks like is on the cards

[Exmantaa]

Also a bout of background info Martin was aiming for around 280-300 hp on m62 I personally don't think his exhaust system with a CAT is capable of this I'm not 100% sure of the size of it as its a hybrid of exhaust bits If it was a 2.5" exhaust all the way through I think it would need to have a de- cat to achieve the desired power levels. This does not explain the oil usage but I don't think it's helping with back pressure Is it possible all the oil is clogging the CAT up causing increased back pressure

 

I run a full Tullett 2.5 system with the same cat Martin has and that measured 330HP on the rollers. Only difference he has is the 2.25" downpipe section, but it should be fine for his power levels. (That same downpipe ran 310+HP for some time with a Harrop...)

 

Anyhow, his exhaust and cat was inspected fine, so we can move on to the massive oil consumption issues, And to rule out any PCV problems playing up, I suggest to just temporary block the channel inside the valve cover and see what that brings. Otherwise it's internal engine bore inspection etc. :-/

[stu8v]

Should the oil grade not be 10-30 or 10-40?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Fezz will tell me if I'm wrong but the first number is to do with weather conditions

[stu8v]

Yeah. But I know of other engines that just ate mobil 1. Try another oil. I would use some cheapo grade that is reccomended for that engine, you may be surprised.

[The Batman]

I doubt that will change drinking 1L of oil per 100miles

[stu8v]

Mobil 1 is like p*ss tho

[fezzasus]

Should the oil grade not be 10-30 or 10-40?

 

Why? All that means is lower quality oil and worse cold temperature performance

[fezzasus]

Yeah. But I know of other engines that just ate mobil 1. Try another oil. I would use some cheapo grade that is reccomended for that engine, you may be surprised.

 

 

Mobil 1 is like p*ss tho

 

there's absolutely no constant difference between Mobil 1 oils.  Some will be identical to other branded oils, others will be slightly modified to other brands.

[stu8v]

 

Should the oil grade not be 10-30 or 10-40?

 

Why? All that means is lower quality oil and worse cold temperature performance

 

Cheaper for a test for one,

 

As soon as we changed grade/brand its made a difference on my mates new engine.....

 

How else can you explain it going from being a user to using barely anything? Nothing else was touched.

 

As a trial its certainly cheaper than tearing down an engine!!!

[fezzasus]

 

 

Should the oil grade not be 10-30 or 10-40?

 

Why? All that means is lower quality oil and worse cold temperature performance

 

Cheaper for a test for one,

 

As soon as we changed grade/brand its made a difference on my mates new engine.....

 

How else can you explain it going from being a user to using barely anything? Nothing else was touched.

 

As a trial its certainly cheaper than tearing down an engine!!!

 

 

Your mate had a gasket leak. Simple. it's why they make thick oil for vintage cars. Martin isn't seeing any leaks, so there's no point trying to cure external leaks with higher viscosity oils. This only helps gaps when the gaskets are cold, if it leaks when it's hot, it'll come out at exactly the same rate.

Edited by fezzasus, 16 November 2015 - 08:31 PM.