307 replies to this topic

[ciderbooze]

My bolt has arrived, all ready to go. As the brackets are painted I assume this negates the need for duralac?

Put duralac between the chassis and brackets surfaces. Can't hurt and some paint can't inhibit corrosion between two different materials (galvanic corrosion). And that way water won't get in between chassis and bracket surfaces.

But that's exactly what paint will do. Galvanic corrosion is all about the electrical circuit formed between the two metals add an insulator (paint in this case) and the circuit is no more and consequently corrosion does not take place.

[GaryK]

My package arrived today and contained the same items as you guys describe (mine is LHD though)..   4 shocks 1 adjuster 2 brackets  1 long bolts with stuff 1 set of spacers   So... we're all missing something right?  

I noticed in your pic like mine the bolt shipped with the kit had no o-rings while the one they sent after did... I'm guessing they should both have o-rings?

[ciderbooze]

There are o rings already fitted to the small spacers or at least mine had them.

[DaveyC]

Pic. 120 front 130 rear (with load in the car). Massive arch gap at the front due to 205/45 R16 tyres. Unfortunately the fronts are as low as they will go so if I switch to a 205/55 R16 to get closer to stock overall diameter it'll raise the front to 140mm but close up the arch gap by 20mm all around.

 

[Mazzy]

I was expecting them to go lower than that... 

 

Pic. 120 front 130 rear (with load in the car). Massive arch gap at the front due to 205/45 R16 tyres. Unfortunately the fronts are as low as they will go so if I switch to a 205/55 R16 to get closer to stock overall diameter it'll raise the front to 140mm but close up the arch gap by 20mm all around.

 

 

[stu8v]

Yeah got my fronts fitted last night. Mines similar, I reckon I'll throw on my spare set of helper springs, that way I'll lower it another 10-15mm

[Haston]

surely they go lower than that :/ have you screw'd them down as far as they will go?

[DaveyC]

surely they go lower than that :/ have you screw'd them down as far as they will go?

 You screw the collars up to lower the car.

 

I've got the fronts set so that at full droop the spring is still just held captive. I could lower it more but then the spring will be rattling around when at full droop.

 

The problem is very much exaggerated by the size of my front tyres.

[Haston]

Ah Sorry that's what I meant forgot they're upside down compared to normal coilovers.

 

Has anyone had any problems with them being loose on full droop. I know we have had MX5 race cars that were loose on full droop and not had any problems.

 

 

 

[DaveyC]

For about £30 you can get some helper springs off eBay as a work around if it bothers you anyway.

[DaveyC]

If I was on a 205/50 tyre, that would take 10mm off the arch gap and add 10mm to the ride height, taking that additional 10mm ride height off with helper springs would then look fairly balanced arch gap front to back I reckon and still result in a 120F/130R ride height.

[BigD]

So if Faulkner (the ones Nitron use) springs are only £25 would it not work with slightly longer springs meaning you can get a bit of preload on them and still be lower? Or is that stupid?

[thejoaoserra]

So if Faulkner (the ones Nitron use) springs are only £25 would it not work with slightly longer springs meaning you can get a bit of preload on them and still be lower? Or is that stupid?

   I was just thinking the same, would a 1 in longer spring with the same spring rate work different? Would it allow to give the car OEM ride height (140 front and rear)?

My bolt has arrived, all ready to go. As the brackets are painted I assume this negates the need for duralac?

Put duralac between the chassis and brackets surfaces. Can't hurt and some paint can't inhibit corrosion between two different materials (galvanic corrosion). And that way water won't get in between chassis and bracket surfaces.

But that's exactly what paint will do. Galvanic corrosion is all about the electrical circuit formed between the two metals add an insulator (paint in this case) and the circuit is no more and consequently corrosion does not take place.

Some paint has particles that are capable of conducting electricity. It is also very common to use some type of sealant to prevent water ingress between two surfaces (even if they are painted). For example, in aviation, between a bracket and the aircraft's structure pr1773 or pr1440 are used to prevent water from getting between both surfaces and also to bond them together.

Edited by thejoaoserra, 21 December 2015 - 09:58 PM.

[DaveyC]

You already can do 140/140 with the current springs.

[stu8v]

Got mine on tonight, hopefully i'll give it a blast in the next day or 2.

 

Anyone got any guidance regarding number of clicks front and back for damping?

 

 

[DaveyC]

Got mine on tonight, hopefully i'll give it a blast in the next day or 2.   Anyone got any guidance regarding number of clicks front and back for damping?    

Had mine set to 20 (which is how they came), seemed a little softer than the billies and a good starting point.

[thejoaoserra]

You already can do 140/140 with the current springs.

Yes, with the current springs. But with a longer spring it could either be impossible or it would need to compress the spring to a force that the damper or the spring colars can't take the stress and get damaged or the force from the spring being too high and causing the pre load to lighten up with vibration.

[stu8v]

My rears where 16 from full -,

 

The fronts where 10 from full -.

 

Tried my helpers on the front but they where a no go, not enough clearance around the top brackets, (they hit the collar) so took them off.

 

 

[DaveyC]

 

You already can do 140/140 with the current springs.

Yes, with the current springs. But with a longer spring it could either be impossible or it would need to compress the spring to a force that the damper or the spring colars can't take the stress and get damaged or the force from the spring being too high and causing the pre load to lighten up with vibration.

 

Sorry, I misread what you had written.

 

From my set it seems that the rears give the right amount of adjustment, allowing pretty much as high as standard ride height down to quite a low height. The fronts seem to limit you to really really high or just quite high. If I had standard 17" wheels on the front then I'd only be able to go as low as 135mm.

[stu8v]

 

You already can do 140/140 with the current springs.

Yes, with the current springs. But with a longer spring it could either be impossible or it would need to compress the spring to a force that the damper or the spring colars can't take the stress and get damaged or the force from the spring being too high and causing the pre load to lighten up with vibration.  

Sorry, I misread what you had written.   From my set it seems that the rears give the right amount of adjustment, allowing pretty much as high as standard ride height down to quite a low height. The fronts seem to limit you to really really high or just quite high. If I had standard 17" wheels on the front then I'd only be able to go as low as 135mm.

Shorter front springs and helpers is the only option if you don't want them rattling about. I'll give the std setup a go and see how I get on. I suppose running it much lower will ruin the handling anyway without buying other supporting parts...