1268 replies to this topic

[Nev]

Can't wait to see this engine in and see it running, it will be a real step forward for a VX220

Edited by Nev, 21 April 2016 - 12:56 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

[fezzasus]

That looks like a monster. 

[Exmantaa]

Looks like that one is for a turbo model. Does that fit on the Tesla uprights?

And yo have the protective rubber covers for the joints?

[Doctor Ed]

Yup, the tesla uprights have the same taper as the s2/s3 toyo's I didn't ask them if ssc had a boot themselves (two kids baking in the parked car whilst dad dribbles on stuff in the ssc workshop!), but do plan on fitting something.

[fezzasus]

I think you can get separate boots from Elise Shop

[Doctor Ed]

Figured as much, it's a simple, common part, and I was pushed for time. I did get fistful of SSC stickers though

[smiley]

I did get fistful of SSC stickers though

 

If mounted correctly, each can add up to 10 bhp.

 

[Doctor Ed]

10hp tool wagons are fcuking cool as

[Doctor Ed]

Was pondering today how I'll jig up the w2a... So the vx has alu water lines from the engine bay to the front for the heater. Repurpose these heater lines for the front heat exchanger (bonus cooling along the length of the alu pipe). Loop the heater output on the motor directly back to the thermostat housing, and, now the trickyish bit, run T fittings on the radiator pipes at the front to feed the heater core in parallel with the rad. Rip the stupid flap mechanism out of the heater box, and regulate the heater core temp directly through flow regulation with a valve (conveniently cable operated, exactly like the flap) http://www.ebay.com....7cAAOSwcdBWSY1F Thoughts, suggestions, criticism?

[Nev]

Whats the ID of the bores that currently lead to the heater matrix? I think the Pro-Alloy pipes are 19mm ID.

 

[Doctor Ed]

Just guessing, but prob 5/8" / 16mm I'm not sure what water flow rate is needed, but it know generally speaking that any improvement in efficiency with increasing flow flattens out. Pretty sure 5/8" with a decent water pump would flow 'a lot', would have to see if that's 'enough' though I guess

Edited by ed.oates, 02 May 2016 - 12:33 AM.

[Nev]

I agree, I think the flow rate wont be effected too much, what is more important it as big and efficient radiator as possible at the front. Some people even put extra little rads in series behind the fog light holes to get the water temps down even more.

[smiley]

A sample of that design Nev is mentioning can be seen here: (need to register to see)

http://www.speedster...hwarz/&page=257

[Arno]

Thoughts, suggestions, criticism?

 

Just that Randy runs 32mm diameter pipes for his chargecooler circuit on his endurance Europa with something like an 150L/min electric waterpump. He arrived at that setup after many hours of track work and testing. That does keep his intake air temperatures stable at a little over ambient on his (I think ) 500HP setup. The Pro-alloy 19mm is already marginal in many higher power setups for longer power durations.

 

You really need to calculate the kg/min airflow that goes through the cooler, the desired temperature drop and then see how much coolant/water flow you need to move the heat out. I suspect the 16mm pipes won't really do

 

Of course it also depends on what you want to do. Are you OK with a setup that can tolerate short bursts of (full) power but will heat-soak after longer duration like on many roads or will cope with a sustained full power use and never hit heat soak?

 

Bye, Arno.

[Exmantaa]

I remember that Chris Randall spend serious time on improving his intercooler system. One of his improvements was to use big hoses and a mighty pump to increase the waterflow...

 

I would simply stick to the proven method of using 19mm waterhose through the sill and don't mess wity the heater pipes.

 

(Edit: Arrghh, to slow I see..)

Edited by Exmantaa, 02 May 2016 - 10:27 AM.

[Nev]

If you flow the coolant too fast what happens is that you get "echos" of hot water going back to the IC before it gets a chance to cool enough. I already get this on my modified Pro-Alloy setup and have seen it many times after a hard shortish engine squirt and then pottering along - sometimes I even see 2 echo/cycles.

 

The ideal solution to fix this is very high volume, but low flow rate, obviously with good rad cooling. I still think the plentiful rad cooling is the key point to concentrate on myself.

 

Also I would (based on personal experience) try increase the bore of the pipes into and out of the IC. This had a noticable effect on my modified Pro-Alloy setup, helping bring IATs down a noticable amount. I think my inlet to the I/C is 2.5" and outlet is 3" for reference, this allows the inlet charge "fan out" through the matrix and collect at the outlet pipe more easily (ie with less turbulence) and might even slightly reduce the pressure drop delta accross the matrix (at a guess).

 

Edited by Nev, 02 May 2016 - 11:03 AM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Are you sure this isn't down to the standalone reading the measurement quicker than oem nev

[Nev]

Are you sure this isn't down to the standalone reading the measurement quicker than oem nev

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean by that, but to clarify the matter, I have an independant digital IAT measurement (lowest significat figure of 0.1) in the cabin that is connected to a sensor just after the intercooler. So it is this reading that reveals the cycles of heat.

[Doctor Ed]

I've also seen plots of heat echoes through w2a setups Thing is, it's not meant to be an instantaneous 1:1 transfer process. The principle is to have an instant heatsink (water), and the front heat exchanger is designed to then shed this over an extended period. Having echoes circulating after a single big heat spikes is entirely normal 'Extended period' is of course a bit subjective. For eg, if you require a system that sheds heat on an unrelenting / constant basis, you don't have time off load for the front exchanger to 'catch up'... but that's pretty rare (boats etc running at constant rpm/load) 150L /min is enormous! My reckon on repurposing the heater lines was twofold: 1- save weight of 2 complete water circuits (?10kg) 2- I wanted to ditch the 'flap' heater control and run the core on a valve (can't do that if the heater core flow is a part of the thermostat circuit)

Edited by ed.oates, 02 May 2016 - 02:55 PM.