1268 replies to this topic

[Exmantaa]

@ badcop; any price indication of a Delphi E39A ecu with your stand-alone software?

 

and you run this now with the stock (K04?) turbo, or an uprated one?

 

Edited by Exmantaa, 17 May 2016 - 02:07 PM.

[BadCop]

Don't want to hijack Ed's thread with details of my car

 

http://www.vx220.org...ndalone-a20nft/

 

Yes still the stock turbo - twin scroll Stainless K04 - really nice quick spool.

[Doctor Ed]

man maths = half the real ticket price anyway

[Doctor Ed]

Heater resistors replaxed

[Doctor Ed]

and an overview of 'progress' at the end of last night
 

[Doctor Ed]

*facepalm*

 

[ChrisS1]

Didn't know you'd been scavenging things from the bottom of the sea.

[garyk220]

Looks like you are making good progress, but that bearing is going to need some oil to ease it up again

 

I think a lot of us are watching your progress with the engine and gearbox install very closely. My car is sitting with an empty engine bay at the moment, with a Z20LET that needs a rebuild/refresh before re-installing and no gearbox.

 

PS. Is that a turbo you are using as a donor vehicle? If you are looking to sell on some of the engine bits to fund your build bear me in mind. I need to source an ECU, engine loom and a few other bits and pieces to get my engine running again.

[Doctor Ed]

WD40, blow torch, breaker bar, angle grinder + cutoff disc = Job done Those uprights and hubs aren't going back on. I've got a complete set of the tesla bits which are in near new condition. I will strip these and keep them for spares though (although the hubs themselves are toast). Nitron brackets turned up today (thanks to Alex at nitron!), whilst the wishbones themselves get packed up into a box for blast/powdercoat and new joints/bushes Fwiw ... After a bit of stewing in things, decided to go with OEM exige bushes Yup, the donor is a turbo. For the time being though, the plan is to try and sell the complete engine/gearbox/loom/ecu/intake/exhaust/driveshafts etc as a single unit. Bolt in, drive away. If that doesn't happen, then I'll split it up

Edited by ed.oates, 18 May 2016 - 03:45 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

2 week break as i travel for work...

...these pics of the 46mm nitron mounts thrown together should hold me over

[Doctor Ed]

annnddd... Finally disassembled (read: blowtorch, sledge hammer, angle grinder) the wishbones for blasting, powder coating, new bushes and balljoints. Got them boxed and sent on Friday, so hopefully that'll be close to done by the time I get back, which means the front end will be approaching finished.

[Nev]

Good to see steady progress.

[Doctor Ed]

Another rather self explanatory update

2mm off the front
1mm off the back

[D-DAWG83]

Had a similar thing done at MBR the other week to gain extra camber

[Doctor Ed]

been stewing on the best compromise, setting up the W2A lines.

 

so far ive got the following bits:

 

PWR 6" barrel with 19mm fittings

PWR heat exchanger (only about 35x300x350mm) with 19mm fittings

EWP115 nylon pump with 38mm fittings

 

I figure a lot of the circuit resistance comes from the long runs front-to-back, so maximising flow here seems to be worth the effort (and theres space for good chunks of pipe), and after doing the maths and seeing whats available in terms of off -the-shelf tubing, I think ive settled on the following:

- lightweight 32x1.6mm HDPE pipe for the long runs front to back, including formed hardpipe radius bends, and proper diameter transitions. so basically that's a 29mm ID for 50-75% of the circuit length in smooth-walled, constant-diameter hardpipe, which doesn't weigh that much.

 

whats im a bit undecided on is whether to step down to 19mm ID from the 29 hard pipe (as that's the size of the core and exchanger fittings, and would be simpler) or wether I should bite the inconvenience and step down to a bigger 25mm hose, with a simple 25-19 reducer immediately at the fittings.

 

Either way the 32mm HDPE pipe is a fixed variable.

 

Im tempted to try the 19mm ID hose, and just get good hose to avoid diameter loss around bends etc. if its not good enough, ive got both the exchanger core size which could be an issue, plus I can upgrade the 19 to 25mm hose if required.

 

the 19mm is certainly easier to handle

[Doctor Ed]

Balljoint mounts all finished

Wishbones should be back from the powdercoaters this week, bushes and joints all ordered ready to go in.

Only thing left is to see what hub carrier bolts they decided to put in the tesla, and if needed swap in some 10.9s. Hopefully the teslas got them from the factory though. Maybe a lick of paint, and then it's all back together

[Nev]

I used to use 10.9 HCBs too but had one snap on me (possibly due to a bad pothole, but it's hard to be sure). I now use 12.9 bolts and really torque them up (to about 50 or 60 ft/lb) and they have been fine for at least 3 years (with very wide tyres and lots of torque), hence I'd recommend them in a car that will likely see some abuse.

Edited by Nev, 29 May 2016 - 02:11 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

bolts arent simple things

 

basically, high tensile bolts do what the name would suggest - they can withstand higher tensile loads before stretch, or deformity + failure. this allows a higher tensile bolt to be tourqued higher, increasing the clamping force between the two things being bolted. this reduces slip movement and lift between the assembled parts, which could lead to failure of the assembly (the perfect example is high tensile bolts, made from ARP unobtainium, for head bolts + studs, and conrods etc).

 

Im not sold on the need to put super high tensile bolts in the hub carriers. do they really need to be torqued up so hard? is the problem that the hub isnt held in the upright, and increasing the clamping load of the hub fixes something?

 

bolts snapping often has nothing to do with the tensile strength of the bolt, per se, rather they almost always fail at the junction of the thread and bolt shoulder (as most normal bolts have cut threads = grain structure interrupted). if you wanted to guard against bolt snappage, best to use fasteners with rolled thread. bolts with a cut thread, if shock loaded hard enough, will fail regardless of tensile strength.

[Doctor Ed]

lol, i just googled this topic. much paranoia and misinformation within lotus circles about bolts. 12.9 bolts are brittle and will explode? the bolts are in shear? really? ok...

 

the only rational argument against 12.9 is a- overkill, and b- corrosion

Edited by ed.oates, 30 May 2016 - 03:35 PM.

[Crabash]

Never had a prob with 10.9, torqued up to what my 30 odd years of tightening bolts day in day out tells me. My bolts don't come loose at work with much more severe applications.