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Project Fracas - 6Sp A20Nft


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#581 oakmere

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 02:17 PM

I think the big advantage of these new turbo engines is their boost range. No waiting for 4000 - 5000 rpm before the turbo can be arsed. I drive a modern 1.6 turbo which boosts from 1500 rpm but I have to say it can't compare to my N/A with regards to throttle response. Though much better than previous turbo cars driven.

#582 Doctor Ed

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 09:11 AM

 

if i can just flip the actuation lever orientation at the gearbox end...
 
grinder and paint makes you the welder you aint
 
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and for the real keen beans... the linkage 'roller' (which is originally a plastic bit, that wears and makes the gate movement sloppy) i remade using the cut-off end of a tapered gudgeon pin from a dead 125cc 2 stroke piston, inserted a M10 rod through it, hammer-flared the end of the  shank so it engaged the taper, passed the rod through the plate and welded it to the plate from the backside. so now have a flush-mount freely rotating hardened steel linkage roller :)

 


Edited by Doctor Ed, 06 July 2017 - 09:16 AM.


#583 Doctor Ed

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 02:16 PM

DHL man didn't muck about... oh how rapidly ideas unfold...

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#584 Rosssco

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 02:28 PM

 

 flush-mount freely rotating hardened steel linkage roller :)

 

 

 

Should we start a list?



#585 Doctor Ed

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 02:46 PM

...of?

#586 2-20

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 07:48 PM



 

if i can just flip the actuation lever orientation at the gearbox end...

 
grinder and paint makes you the welder you aint
 
Posted Image
 

 
and for the real keen beans... the linkage 'roller' (which is originally a plastic bit, that wears and makes the gate movement sloppy) i remade using the cut-off end of a tapered gudgeon pin from a dead 125cc 2 stroke piston, inserted a M10 rod through it, hammer-flared the end of the  shank so it engaged the taper, passed the rod through the plate and welded it to the plate from the backside. so now have a flush-mount freely rotating hardened steel linkage roller :)
 
Any photos ?
I cannot figure out what you did....
Thanks

#587 Doctor Ed

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 08:23 PM

ill take a pic tomorrow of it installed :)



#588 Hopegreen

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:47 AM

...of?

 

People interested in this mod, I guess.

 

Waiting for the photos :popcorn: 



#589 Doctor Ed

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 03:05 PM

original vs flipped L-R gate selector mechanism. original pulls from the top (turns clockwise) the new one pulls from the bottom (pulls anticlockwise)

i think thats a little easier than replicating the entire Europa S mirrored shifter assembly :)

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#590 Doctor Ed

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 03:07 PM

and the whole short-shifter assembly nearing completing. provisionally hooked it up, and the throw is sure shhort and crisp :)

Need to make a proper anchoring bracket for the box-side cable ends, shifter side all lines up and works fine

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#591 fezzasus

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 03:19 PM

Good knob choice, it's nylon, right? 

 

Are you happy with the level of flex from the original shifter assembly?


Edited by fezzasus, 07 July 2017 - 03:21 PM.


#592 Doctor Ed

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:03 PM

yep, some random nylon rally knob :) Ive still got to make a reverse-lockout doohicky, and was planning to look at flex in the shifter body when i get around to that

#593 Doctor Ed

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 06:57 PM

so sleep deprivation post night shift, a lack of patience, idle hands and a plugged-in angle grinder, what could go wrong.
 
i have no idea how the S2 door skin is supposed to sit, but there were a few key areas which i used as a rough guide. the front A pillar triangle is identical, so theres a fixed starting point. I assume the window weather strip runs basically parallel to the inner skin edge, and in a leap of faith i assumed the door release button was mounted in basically the same place (line up with the other 2 above, so not a dangerous guess, i hope!). I erred on the side of caution, so didnt take a heap off. theres scope to sink the skin further in as required, but ive got it sitting basically 'right*' for now (*based on essentially nothing). itll be interesting to see how I can make this blend/transition with the flat/square sill of the vx body. (the vx sill needs to be transitioned anyway into the front and rear arches/quarters anyway, so theres scope to fudge a few lines to get it flowing decently).
 
i should probably hold back a bit now till i actually have the other body parts, and the chassis back in front of me. nice to see its not impossible to line it all up in the semi-correct ballpark though
 
but as it is... started with this (de-outerskinned vx door and new s2 outerskin)
 
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turned into this....
 
pre:
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mid:
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post:
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and from the rear edge
 
pre:
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post:
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an idea of the depth of the cut:
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Edited by Doctor Ed, 10 July 2017 - 07:00 PM.


#594 Doctor Ed

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 07:19 PM

Oh yeah, and from the top (side?!)

You can see the front square corner of the original vx leading edge poking out. The bottom edge of the std vx door isn't much lower than that, so that's kinda where the s2 door would need to be amputated to close into the vx sill. Also, the door release button you can see doesn't stick out into the door recess very much. Position seems good, but offset could be better. Not sure. Having an s2 door to compare would sure be convenient... but alas, where's the fun in that. It all needs to be chop-suey'd to play with the vx anyway.

Fun and games

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#595 ChrisS1

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 07:02 AM

Great work as always.

 

I'll be interested to see how the Elise door modification goes together with the VX bodywork (assuming you're not changing the original bodywork??!)



#596 Doctor Ed

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 08:16 AM

im skeptical tbh. the elise/exige sill is much narrower, and cuts under quick quickly from the lower door edge. in comparison the vx sill is quite wide to start with and Drops basically vertically away, so with the massive cut-in for the vent and the generally slim contour of the door panel, ive got a funny feeling its going to look like ass. well see though.

 

i dont want to modify the sill if possible... thats next level fuckingaround, and i want to Keep the 'basis' of the car original vx (so i can remount oem doors etc as required)



#597 Rosssco

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 08:46 AM

The VX wide sills provide better aero down the sides anyway, and get away from the less ideal 'coke bottle' shape of the Elige.



#598 Doctor Ed

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 09:07 AM

oh, i agree! no, no, dont get me wrong, i like the vx sill, just getting the doors to play with it is going to be fun (i need the sweeping countour of the upper door-line so it meets with front and rear clam). rear vent, door profile, and transition from the sills to quarters is simple a challenge.

 

edit, i cant paste links into Explorer (ughhh) but yeah, think widebody exige GT3 clams

 

 


Edited by Doctor Ed, 11 July 2017 - 09:09 AM.


#599 Doctor Ed

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 05:37 PM

see how it works out blending this into the VX

 

 

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#600 Doctor Ed

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 06:23 PM

stupid BW turbine flange. have to make it from scratch. will include a receiver groove for the oem compression ring.-
 
for a relatively small turbo, impressive to see it'll take a 3.5" (89mm) dup pipe straight up to the housing
 
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