1268 replies to this topic

[Doctor Ed]

for anyone interested, CAD .dxf of the BW EFR flange
 
plain old 2D .dxf file for water/laser cutting. you can then machine the setp yourself if you want
 
http://www.v-eight.c...flange_v2.0.dxf
 

[Nev]

Uh oh, 4 bolt turbo to downpipe connection. GL with that.

 

I would never ever use a bolted system again, always V-band, as I've had a lot of bother with stretched/snapped bolts. Hopefully your experience will be better than mine.

Edited by Nev, 15 July 2017 - 08:24 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

Yep, I'm already lamenting it, but no other choice

[BadCop]

I used the flange from Friedrich Motorsport.

Their welding is   but the flange is good.

 

The "ears" for the bolts are bent forward so you set the whole flange under tension.

 

Just hand tighten the bolts (30-35 Nm), the seal will do the rest.

 

 

Never had a problem with leaks or broken bolts.

 

Edited by BadCop, 15 July 2017 - 09:30 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

Yup, I'm impressed with the seal assembly, it removes a great deal of the issues with bolted flanges. Whacky bloody bolt pattern though. 3.5" v-band would be ideal! Edit, prob worthwhile mentioning the Fredrick Motorsport flange has to be bought as part of their complete downpipe, and then cut off. Expensive flange!

Edited by Doctor Ed, 15 July 2017 - 09:35 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

so paint is taking longer than expected i suppose its cheap, so i can wait, but still, was expecting to have it in my hands this weekend, ive got a heap of stuff ready to go for when it gets back

so, occupational therapy in the meantime, make a reverse lockout mechanism for the 6sp box out of the 5sp shifter mech

basically welded in a new stopper-post on the L-R gate throw arm. then after 20x different patterns, made up a stepper-motor (boot release) activated locking arm that engages/disengages the stopper-post holding it out of reverse gate territory until activated. ive got a dash switch that would be the easy way to activate things, but would prefer something on the stick itself. most options end up looking/functioning dumb though, and the last thing i need is a go-baby-go button. we'll see

[Doctor Ed]

i also shimmed the spring return post so theres no slop in the stick around dead centre (that was really annoying!)

[Duncan VXR]

Great work! Progressing well 😎 DG

[Arno]

Could always go high-tech ''Ferrari' reverse lockout solution...

 

 

 

 

Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

Actually wanted to do some gates like that, but with the short shifter the gates are no longer far enough apart to allow a proper metal divider to exist between them. Well, no enough to rely upon anyway. I might make a dress plate for use instead of a gaiter

Edited by Doctor Ed, 30 July 2017 - 12:48 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

WE also used to do the Ferrari thing on reliant robins to drive them on a motor bike license In the uk

[Arno]

AFAIK the earlier Toyota Elises used a 'lift ring' style lockout on the gear lever under the gear knob that used a short cable to pull on a spring loaded detent/block to free the reverse.

 

Might be an intermediate option between an electrical and a pure mechanical block.

 

 

Visible here in the parts diagram:

 

Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

Yeah I looked at that. Honestly the solenoid/stepper was the simple way out. Trying to retrofit a cable assembly with lift-ring on the stick etc... doable, but overly complicated to make from scratch and have it looking/working well. A lift-ring with a microswitch would be ideal, but that's in the 'maybe later' box as an extension of what's there.

[Arno]

At least with the solenoid you could theoretically go with a Honda K20 gearbox style speed-triggered lockout. It has a similar solenoid in the gearbox that gets actuated by the ECU at >5km/h to block the reverse gate.

 

A little circuitry or even an (overkill )  Arduino linked to the speed signal in the dash and a trigger output would probably be enough to emulate that in your case.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

Went past the spray painters to give them a gentle kick in the ass...

[Doctor Ed]

[Doctor Ed]

chop-suey'd an OEM cat

3.5" in, 3" out

[Tony H]

Sorry if I missed it but what are you doing with the bodywork? Elise doors but VX sills, what is happening?

[Doctor Ed]

modding an exige gt3 lightweight body to interchangeably swap with the vx body (including swapping doors)

[Exmantaa]

What model is that kat from? An HJS?