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Project Fracas - 6Sp A20Nft


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#681 Aerodynamic

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 05:26 PM

I use the one I got with my car. If I upgrade my brake with biggee calipers. I heard a porsche 911 GT3 should fit with som mods. But I need to look this up a bit deeper. Br, Per

#682 Doctor Ed

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 07:02 PM

New page, new list... Small fiddly stuff to do first: - retrace the ABS (FL) and DRB (RR) cutout wires, and mark the switches (memory is failing) - rerun thermostat sensor wire down the sill to the back of the car - rewire new relay and rerun run fan control wires down the sill to the back of the car - rewire a new rad fan override switch/relay/loom - replace one dodgy dash switch - refit the heater control panel and heater piping/valve assembly. set the cable in final position - wire up and finish installing the 6sp reverse lockout mechanism - pull the shifter and handbrake cables through the chassis in preperation for the engine/gearbox install - replace the airbag and pretensioner control module (bought a new one as itll suck to find the one ive got doesnt work once other sh*t is finished) - mount new driver seat mounts and enjoy the newfound legroom - set rivnuts in the floor for the shifter assembly and reinforce the fcuking flex thing Medium sized fuckaround stuff: - Swap the ABS control module for the 4chan Deawoo one I got (S108196010 C) - Bend up new brake cross-over hardlines and fit to the ABS pump - mount the brake fluid reservoir and hoses to the master cyl - Finish the fueltank/pump wiring and speedflow hose assembly, and remount the tank - Finish the speedflow lines to the 044 and surgetank Large stuff that i need to do properly: - Fit and bond new crashbox - Fit and bond new windscreen surround - Jig up and reweld the hardtop mounts to the rollbar - design and make a new rear Firewall section to enclose the W2A intercooler core - design and make the W2A core mounting brackets - reweld the W2A core water fittings to suit 25mm ID hose - design and make new rear roll-hoop support stays / rear clam support - design and make new harness bar when thats done... get the goddamn motor in... - flywheel is in production at TTV and due for completion on the 4-5/09 - need to mount a new clutch slave cyl to avoid that sinking feeling of a leaking clutch once all assembled - i busted the reverse switch on the box off. oops - need to get me some reinforced motor mount bushes - intake pipework - exhaust pipework

Edited by Doctor Ed, 09 September 2017 - 07:05 PM.


#683 Doctor Ed

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 07:02 PM

I also kept the old one. No indication it was leaking or misbehaving. Can replace if it fucks up in the future

#684 Doctor Ed

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 05:49 PM

So, my fix for the wobbly, flexy fcuker of a shifter assembly. Basically I had a look at the way the frame flexes and it comes down to 3 things, the body itself is a flimsy box section, secondly the box is secured in awkward positions with no though taken to fixing the unit as far away from the rotational/flex centreline, and thirdly, its mounted on tiny little stilts/spacers so even the flat mounting surfaces aren't used adequately for what they are, and bow and flex around the stilts.

Fixing the box section is a PITA so I left that alone. What I figured I could do was bang in some rivnuts to maximise the width of the fastener base (or in case of the middle mounting, add a rivnut so there's actually 2 fasteners rather than only one, so atleast there's a faint hope of countering some torque as opposed to a single bolt acting as a simple pivot). Then... and this is where I got all fancy-pants, rather than use stilts/spacers I made one big fuckoff spacer out of 20mm nylon. Every flat surface would thereby be supported, and if bonded properly would be loaded in sheer during twist, and would be rigid as fcuk. To ensure it sat properly on the floorpan (due to rivnut shoulders, and the corrugations in the extrusion etc) I heated up the nylon surface to semi melting with a blowtorch and pressed it onto the floorpan, torqued up the fasteners and let it cool down... hey presto solid as a rock, even without fasteners it's keyed into the floor and has zero waggle. Anyway, so that then got sika'd to the shifter assembly, and it's all fastened up and currently resting over night to cure. First impressions... it's pretty stout and doesn't move :)

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#685 ultimate

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 09:39 PM

Wow. Great idea!

#686 Doctor Ed

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 09:09 PM

A bit of domestic upholstery work on the shifter console to make it work with the altered shifter throw and higher cable pivot location

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#687 Nev

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:21 AM

Nothing beats using the kitchen to do car stuff. My personal favourite is putting greasy/dirty car parts in the dishwasher for cleaning!

 

Apparently my granddad once stripped an entire engine in the bath tub - made my granny furious for years!


Edited by Nev, 12 September 2017 - 07:22 AM.


#688 Doctor Ed

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 06:33 PM

high tech carbon composite bonding technique

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#689 Doctor Ed

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 09:28 PM

so dove into the fuel system today. Got the oem pump assembly back into the tank, traced and spliced into the fuel pump power supply, and pulled some cable through a grommet from the tank area into the engine bay where the 044 lives. The OEM relay and wiring loom is made from some pretty light gauge stuff that will release magical smoke if connected directly up to the 044, so I've got a new fused relay on order and I'll make up a small sub circuit/loom for the 044.

So that's inconvenience one, on to number two... hooked up the last of the $peedflow 200series and GM quick connect adapters to the OEM pump (thanks Dale!), and got the tank mounted back into place. Had to bastardise some existing grommets with a blowtorch to pull the 6AN lines through into the engine bay, but got them through eventually... then as I was sorting them out to hook them up to the surgetank fittings, it dawned on me that I trashed 2x olives last time I made some hose, and I'd been meaning to order some replacements... doh! So a couple ordered, just annoying.

So everything is kindve in place, but nothing is really hooked up. Well at least the tank is back in.

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#690 Doctor Ed

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 09:41 PM

Also been playing 'where to mount the reservoirs' and think I've settled on here. Low, forward, and in semi reachable position for adjustment without pulling things apart.

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#691 Acidpopstar

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 03:07 AM

Very tasty suspension Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#692 chris_uk

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 06:38 AM

the rad surround will need modifying if your going to leave them there, also consider the clam bolts which go upwards right underneath the reservoir they could interfere.

 

Lotus have attached them onto the cross bar on the wishbone. 



#693 Doctor Ed

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 06:51 AM

rad surround has already lost its 'ears' so no fouling there. ive got a ply undertray that'll come right forward supported by tension shafts to the front bulkhead. (you can see the eyelets already in the pic) ill mount them a touch higher than in the pic though, theyre just lying there at present

Edited by Doctor Ed, 18 September 2017 - 06:51 AM.


#694 Doctor Ed

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 05:36 PM

Farken...

TTV got me my custom flywheel today. Not happy :(

1 - it's a 7.4kg Nugget without a hint of attempt at weight relief
2 - the clutch disc it's design for doesn't even fit on the friction surface. Inside dia of the disc 165mm. Inside dia of flywheel 168mm (inside dia of pressure plate 163mm). So 1.5mm of clutch disc doesn't have contact with the flywheel.
3 - the spigot bearing is 15.00mm ID as opposed to the 5/7" (18.14mm) specified

So 3 fuckups before even trying to look hard. To be fair, I got near insta-response via email, and without much hoo-haa they're making me another from scratch post haste.


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#695 vocky

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 07:08 PM

are you going to use that flywheel with a M32 gearbox ?

 

If you are then it's not going to work too well, unless I'm missing something. My custom z22se M32 flywheel is totally different.



#696 Doctor Ed

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 07:18 PM

It's based on the dimensions I provided to them of the input shaft position of the m32, along with the compressed and extended positions of the concentric slave cyl. Supposedly they took this and figured out the pressure plate finger position/throw etc all on their own. I'm going to go mock it up tomorrow and see if it's basically correct. I'm a bit disappointed with the attention to detail so far, so I'm a bit skeptical. We'll see. Edit, just had a quick look at the stacked height, and it seems to be in the ballpark (on paper compared to my measurements). Obviously different clutches/pressure plates etc will have specific installed heights. So not unexpected that it looks different to another combination

Edited by Doctor Ed, 21 September 2017 - 07:23 PM.


#697 Doctor Ed

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 07:33 PM

M32 input shaft and concentric slave positions relative to the a20nft crank position
Dug up from several pages back...
 
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#698 vocky

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Posted 22 September 2017 - 07:27 AM

your measurements are okay, so hopefully the different clutch is the reason why it looked odd



#699 Doctor Ed

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 11:46 AM

yup, dummy fit everything up, and it all works, so the basic dimensions are fine. thrown on the slave cyl is a little shirt, so seeing as theyre making a new one anyway, ive asked them to increase the depth a few mm to give the slave a little more play room

meanwhile... just because the other camera was with me

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#700 Arno

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 11:59 AM

Photoshop the stands away and claim to have filled the tyres with Helium :P

 

Bye, Arno.






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