1268 replies to this topic

[Doctor Ed]

yep, i wont use a proper pressure bleeder, probably just gravity feed most of the line, spend a while burping the slave manually, then get it all together and bleed it manually.

[Doctor Ed]

The updated to do list

 

Small fiddly stuff:

- finish routing the front wiring harness

- mount new radiator, and front cooler circuit hoses.

- Need a new Spal fan, the old one sounds like a helicopter

- make undertray air deflector panel with small vortex generators 

- maybe source some 997 gt3 brake cooling deflectors - so close! dont quite sit right, need better mounting solution

- run wire from a dash pot to the exhaust for 'loud valve' control

- tidy up center console area, tuck the wiring away, finish it off.

- route rear heater circuit hoses

 

 

Medium sized fuckaround stuff:

- mount the gearbox and get it definitively hooked up

- mount the brake fluid reservoir and hoses to the master cyl- need to sort some fcuking Fittings (fcuk you!)

- modify/make new exhaust/muffler hanging Mounts (so close!)

- sort out the heat exchanger piping and fittings

- sort out heat exchanger thermostat and fans

- fix small crack I just caused in the rear wheel arch, bugger

- make rearview mirror indicator lights?

- sort out main coolant hoses in the engine bay (needs T-fittings for expansion tank circuit etc)

 

Large stuff that i need to do properly:

- bond the rear Firewall back to the rollhoop 

- design and make a new rear Firewall section to enclose the W2A intercooler core

- design and make the W2A core mounting brackets

- reweld the W2A core water fittings to suit 25mm ID hose

- reweld the inlet fittings for the heat-exchanger 

- design and make new rear roll-hoop support stays / rear clam support

- design and make new harness bar

- design and make rear toe link support bar

 

Random bits down the immediate priority list 

- flywheel Version 2 is in the works due to stuff-up with Version 1

- intake pipework

- exhaust pipework (working on it!)

- put engine in!

 

Things to buy

- new portable soldering iron

 

The updated done stuff

 

Small fiddly stuff to do first:

- retrace the ABS (FL) and DRB (RR) cutout wires, and mark the switches (memory is failing)

- rerun thermostat sensor wire down the sill to the back of the car

- rewire new relay and rerun run fan control wires down the sill to the back of the car

- rewire a new rad fan override switch/relay/loom

- replace one dodgy dash switch

- refit the heater control panel and heater piping/valve assembly. set the cable in final position

- wire up and finish installing the 6sp reverse lockout mechanism

- pull the shifter and handbrake cables through the chassis in preperation for the engine/gearbox install

- replace the airbag and pretensioner control module (bought a new one as itll suck to find the one ive got doesnt work once other sh*t is finished)

- mount new driver seat mounts and enjoy the newfound legroom

- set rivnuts in the floor for the shifter assembly and reinforce the fcuking flex thing

- fit pk5-880 alternator belt

 

Medium sized fcuk around stuff:

- Swap the ABS control module for the 4chan Deawoo one I got (S108196010 C)

- Bend up new brake cross-over hardlines and fit to the ABS pump

- Finish the fueltank/pump wiring and speedflow hose assembly, and remount the tank

- Finish the speedflow lines to the 044 and surgetank

 

Large stuff I need to do properly:

- Fit and bond new crashbox

- Fit and bond new windscreen surround

- Jig up and reweld the hardtop mounts to the rollbar

 

Random bits down the immediate priority list :

- need to get me some reinforced motor mount bushes

- i busted the reverse switch on the box off. oops

- need to mount a new clutch slave cyl to avoid that sinking feeling of a leaking clutch once all assembled

- Need to make up slave cyl hoses including a bleeder port for the single hosed concentric slave

- figure out the layout of this goddamn coolant circuit

 

Bought

- clutch lines/splitter/bleeder

- more loom tape

- stainless bar stock

 

 

 

Edited by Doctor Ed, 12 October 2017 - 08:53 AM.

[Doctor Ed]

I really should be having a study day... ughhh... but...

 

chopped the W2A core to prep it for 25mm fittings. orginally has 18mm fittings with a 14mm hole. yeah, nah. but how to open up the holes? intercooler core is right there. ha! sacrificial step drill to the rescue. id actually already fcuked this drill around the 8-12mm range, so it was perfect. basically just used the angle grinder to progressively chop the steps off, meaning there wasnt any 'plunge' depth to the bit. ream to required size, chop off that shoulder, ream up the next size. went from 14-22mm pretty damn quick actually.

 

 

 

 

 

[vocky]

yep, i wont use a proper pressure bleeder, probably just gravity feed most of the line, spend a while burping the slave manually, then get it all together and bleed it manually.

 

reverse bleed it

 

ps: push the slave cylinder inwards as you release the bleed nipple, tighten the nipple when it is fully depressed, repeat until no air comes out

[Doctor Ed]

Smart!

[Doctor Ed]

had enough with head in a book, so left the missus with the latest episode of Outlander, and went to the shed at like 10pm... great idea. got home at 4am, but managed to strike a bunch of stuff off the list
 
first up, the heartache that is the brake reservoir and fittings finally had an ending. found a guy wrecking a LHD on gumtree, and although cost more than it shoudve (LHD tax) finally got the required bits to put things together. i modified the way some things run in order to neaten it all up a little. also repurposed some unused coolant hose for the clutch reservoir line. its EPDM so should be brake fluid resistant. hope so!
 

 
then moved back along the chassis, and got the fuel tank shear panel and the rear control arm mounts /gearbox torque mounts in properly. done
 


pulled the slave cyl off in mild paranoia that id buggered the backing plate/seal, confirmed everything is where its supposed to be and slides freely, then in a delirious haze of '2:30am i should probably go home now' with the back of the car jacked up to get to the shear panel, i looked at the gearbox and was like... well why not. so dragged the gearbox in under the chassis on the jack. offloaded it, dropped the chassis, and then manually heaved the box into position. slipped the jack back in for fine positioning, slipped the bolts in. voila! gearbox is kindve in. went home in a delirious haze of satisfaction
 

Edited by Doctor Ed, 15 October 2017 - 09:00 AM.

[vocky]

when you fit the engine remove the crank pulley and oil pump, it will then go in very easily

[Doctor Ed]

will it going in (albiet with swearing) without disassembly? eyeball-o-meter says it should, just getting the clutch lined up could prove to be painful

[vocky]

you would need to remove one bolt from the water pump access panel - it will be obvious which one

 

it's a pain to get the clutch past the bellhousing, a crowbar helps, but it can be done

[Doctor Ed]

So TTV came through with flywheel version 2. need to go double check the dimensions, but it's looking good

Revised friction surface, revised spigot bush, revised weight...

Comes in at 5.4kg (2kg reduction over v1)

[Doctor Ed]

So compare v1 against v2

2kg lighter, 5mm smaller friction surface ID (168mm vs 163mm), maybe 0.2mm thicker from crank mounting face to friction surface. 13mm mounting flange thickness (for M10x1.25 fasteners) and obviously the bronze spigot bush rather than the bearing. Everything else the same, so everything should like up nice

Obvious difference is the 2kg of extra scollaping out of the back of the thing. V2 actually feels 'right' in the hand. V1 feels like a fcuking nugget!

Edited by Doctor Ed, 16 October 2017 - 01:25 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

Dominik from Kopp Racing (same bloke doing the A20NFT ecu software etc) stepped in and took some alloy welding off my hands. mostly because i cant weld alloy for sh*t. Intercooler core now finished. pressure tested it to 3bar as well... all good!

[Doctor Ed]

slight side-project, but i find the idea pretty cool... Data-logging with an Arduino.

Im not sure how i got sidetracked down this avenue, but ultimately stumbled up the video below, and convinced me i should try something similar. The idea of being able to log suspension movement along with tyre temp in real time is pretty amazing. not that ive done it often, but the times i have ive always found temp gunning the tyres with a clipboard messy and stressful. as a single person 'team', jumping out of the car in the pits and, half rooted and sweaty, trying to quickly do meaningful measurments of things is a bit of a joke. same with gokarting. and particularly with Karting im pretty skeptical that after rolling the whole way back through the pits area that any meaningly temp info is left in the tyres.



So... I know absolutley fcuking nothing about digital circuits, nor programming. I find the idea of the arduino interesting, and theres certainly some cool projects being run with the things. so, enthusiatically i dived in and did some reading.

yeah, nah... learning C++ from scratch for this as a one-off is a bit of a joke. SO... i headed over to Fiverr and spammed a bunch of ardunio programmers with my idea. lots of bites, and slowly honed in on 2 People who coild do it, understood the idea, and reckon they could sucesfully implement it. ended up booking a chick from Pakistan to do the coding/proofing etc for $150. current materials estimate is also ~ $150 so looking at a $300 total project cost. cut-and-paste from another thread below...

Basic layout as follows

Temp sensors:
- 3x 35deg FOV IR temp sensors for each wheel (MLX90614ESF-ACC) running on the i2c bus
- left and right wheels grouped into a bundle of 6 sensors managed by a local i2c multiplexer
- one multiplexer front and rear to give a total of 2 groups of 6 sensors (12 i2c IR sensors in total)

Suspension position sensors:
- 4x Analogue Bosch 0280122001 3 -Pin TPS sensors. Basically a 2kohm variable pot giving 0-5V output over 90deg sweep

Accelerometer/Gyro:
- again on the i2c, digital MEMS/Gyro from https://www.sparkfun.../products/11977

GPS
- haven't settled in this yet, but fairly standard 10Hz GPS

The i2c bus and the ADC channels can be logged at 100Hz, the GPS also logged at 100Hz but data only gets updated at 10Hz.

Possible issue is going to be running cable for the i2c temp sensors. As they're likely going to be 2m from the arduino, there's potential for signal loss, cross talk etc etc. need to get some good shielded twist Strand cable, and then there's weird sh*t about adding caps, different pull-up resistors, playing with baud rate and god know what that I don't understand. Plus... does having a multiplexer half way along the line essentially act as a relay post and reconditions the signal? Cuts the the wire distance effectively in half, so I assume there's less likelihood of signal issues?

Def worth having a crack though!

Edited by Doctor Ed, 20 October 2017 - 05:54 PM.

[Mattias]

Nice side project

Everybody should have a play with arduino, it's quite easy to learn once you get going. I whipped up a shiftlight in the first days, most time spent on reading the rpm signal and adding light sensor for auto brightness

 

[Doctor Ed]

im getting to old to learn new tricks. or rather, im getting old enough to have too many other responsibilities to have the freedom to sit down and learn a programing language from scratch just for shits-n-giggles if i can learn enough about the capabilities and Limits, and outsource the actual programming bit to someone who can, that makes more sense to me

[Arno]

If you are using I2C for the communication between the parts and throughout the car then you probably have to make very, very sure it's extremely well shielded cable. I2C was never designed to work in 'noisy' conditions like cars (eg. ignition noise) and most transmission styles used on the bus have little to no error detection/correction so it's easy to get garbeld data or lose the packet sync.

 

As a proof of concept or initial version, I'd say go for it!

 

But you may in a second revision want to move the physical data transmission to something like a CAN connection that was designed to work in such conditions and may be more robust in the long run. No need to implement the whole data suite on top of it, just (ab)use the basic CAN transmission technique of using balanced wires and error control

 

Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

Yup, my crash course on data transmission has picked up on that. Been looking at this cable: http://www.helukabel...ctKey=STD_21135 60nF/km = 18pF/ft so quite low

[Doctor Ed]

Agh, edit time lockout. This ones even better 15pF/ft https://www.quabbin....t1-e1-xdsl/9720 Both around 22awg wire size

Edited by Doctor Ed, 21 October 2017 - 11:57 AM.

[Doctor Ed]

And too slow again for the edit lockout

15pF/ft - https://www.distrele..._24_1PR_eng.pdf

[Doctor Ed]

Pretty boring update.. but dotting the is and crossing the ts time - small mod to the engine mount bracket necessary to properly locate anti-rotation pin of the mount





And the M32 inverted RWD selector assembly all finished. Lubed up the cables with graphite spray (evil stuff). Slippery fuckers now