1268 replies to this topic

[Nev]

Looks good, have put their company website in my favourites. Ta.

[Doctor Ed]

in dont have anything to do with those blokes but they seriously deserve the kudos. really top work, top service. benchmark stuff.

[Doctor Ed]

[Doctor Ed]

got the firewall installed for good...



sits in pretty well actually, quite happy how it worked out, and didnt get sikafelx absolutely everywhere

[leevx2.2]

What clutch is that ?

 

ARPs lubed, loctited, and torqued

 

[Doctor Ed]

TTV 230mm single plate paddle ceramic good for 450ftlb

[Doctor Ed]

firewall and intercooler now all back together with some fiberglass heatshield/deadender sheeting. itchy fcuking stuff to work with

 

 

[Nev]

Good work as always and fair progress.

 

Great place for the intercooler, I bet your charged air run is nice and short.

 

Everything looks so clean and orderly in these new/rebuild threads, looking into my engine bay isn't like that any more - that's for sure.

Edited by Nev, 25 January 2018 - 11:47 AM.

[Doctor Ed]

so, -3degC in the shed, and i still cant feel my feet, but this happened...

 

 

 

and in the process of that, this happened. fcuking stud fouled the rear subframe. so out with the stud, cut down a diff crownwheel bolt and continued

 

 

then this became obvious (in retrospect you can see it in the pic above) - the wastgate actuator also decided to foul on the subframe. 

 

 

so loosened the compressor housing, and rotated it a poofteenth. 2mm to spare now

 

[Doctor Ed]

and how its looking as i walked out

 

 

 

 

 

[BadCop]

Ed, the 2mm space won't clear the engine movement. There are three ways to correct it: 1) Tilt the engine forward 1-2 cm. Will give massive clearence and you only need to slightly modify the lower torque supports. This Mod has the second benefit of raising the driveshafts a bit. So if you lower the car the shaft angles dont get too weird. 2) Bend the actuator support and then the actuator rod. 3) buy the Forge FMACVXRJ It is slightly smaller in diameter and you can insert harder springs for operating at higher boost levels.

[Doctor Ed]

Yeah, shitty little corner there. At least its in for now and the fasteners can all be done up Tilting the engine 1-2cn wont do much I think. Tilting will make that part move on an arc, and it doesnt actually get away from the subframe, it remains damn close until you rotate the engine so far that the actuator sits well above the level of the cross member, and thats got to be atleast 4cm shift in position. Sliding/translating the engine forward would work. Need to slot all the mounts though. Dont like that idea. Ill have a look though. Ill take out the lower mount bolts and try levering stuff around a bit and see what happens. If it works itd be an easy answer. I just dont like slotting mounts. Might need to weld in some large washers to relocate the holes. Bending the bracket is an option. Might win another 2mm or so. Bracket is a PITA tho. To get it off will require disassembly of the turbo as one of the fasteners is in a bullshit location and cant be got at. Will need to see whats doable in terms of bending it insitu. Im pretty sure a bit more compressor housing rotation along with a bit of a adjustment of the bracket will get me 5mm. The mounts are solid as fcuk too, Im not sure how much movement is likely. Worst case, massage the subframe with a hammer

Edited by Doctor Ed, 10 February 2018 - 08:46 AM.

[vocky]

You should try and rotate it or fit a smaller actuator, using a hammer is not advised

[The Batman]

Ive seen a couple of photos in the lotus world from a very recommended tuner where he has cut the subframe edge to fit an exhaust I wouldnt recommend this

[leevx2.2]

Looking good i can't see a problem with a little  hammering  myself  .Sorry if its been asked what power are you going for ?

[Doctor Ed]

320-340ish Hammer will work, but obviously a last resort when everything else has been exhausted (plus to properly hammer it, the engine has to come out. fcuk that!)

Edited by Doctor Ed, 10 February 2018 - 09:55 AM.

[Doctor Ed]

Had a look at what degrees of freedom were available in the mounts to free up some space. Tilting the motor unfortunately doesn't achieve anything where needed. as mentioned previously the edge near the subframe tends to rotate on an arc tangential to the subframe, so there's no win in terms of absolute clearance. What would be needed is a forward shift of the upper mounts, as well as a rotation of the lower mounts. To do that I'd need to slot the upper mounts about 5mm, and yeah, nah. Dominik was talking about bending the actuator mount, but be fcuked if I can get to one of the mounting bolts without disassembling the whole turbo assembly. Apparently I need to be a small double jointed female Asian to do this. Anyway, after a lot of jacking the motor and shifting mounts around with a crowbar, I bolted it all back down again without changing anything. Soo... Went back to the compressor housing, backed it off and rotated it a bees dick further. I uncoupled the shaft from the wastegate and tried to line things up better, ended up bending a kink in the shaft so everything operates straight, adjusted a few hardlines, and it's all now sitting with 4-5mm clearance. Not heaps, but I suspect enough. Hopefully the mounts are stiff enough, and the motion of the motor is so constrained that it doesn't try and bang things together

[Doctor Ed]

And one more pic... Europa S driveshafts looking pretty:



So, to quickly summarise the bits making this work
- A20NFT 2L DI Turbo (Ecotech/B207 family)
- M32 6Sp Box from some 2.2L Opel/Vauxhall
- Europa S left/right motor mounts
- Europa S front/rear torque mounts
- Europa S driveshafts
- Tesla Roadster uprights (first car in space!)
- SKF Hubs

[piwo]

In my car with b207r And the serial td04 20t turbo it was close. http://www.mazdaspee...42650&mode=view http://www.mazdaspee...?f=320&t=115720 where are you planning to mount the intercooler and what?

Edited by piwo, 11 February 2018 - 03:19 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

yep, looks similarly tight!

 

intercooler is a PWR W2A - i cut and moved the firewall to fit it in front of the motor. see pics at the top of the page, or heres one: