1268 replies to this topic

[alexb]

Well organized machine room. You're clearly trying to copy the OEM look   That 180 degree silicone bend from the chargecooler to the TB has enough play to allow for the rocking of the engine I assume. I copied you're idea with the firewall and it even looks like I'm using the same chargecooler (6x6 inch PWR) and as I have to be concerned about something, my latest concern is about finding some play in the charge cooling tubing (more correctly: hosing) to allow for the rocking of the engine. Here it looks like the material itself provides more than enough flexibility.

[Doctor Ed]

Yep, exactly. The silicone bends to/from the intercooler core serve as the flex joints for engine movement. Did you get the firewall cut already? Howd it fit up?

[Arno]

If you're worried about the movement you could always install something like:

 

 

https://www.autospor...low-143641.html

 

That takes up the movement. Reinforcement means it doesn't inflate.

 

Bye, Arno.

[alexb]

Yep, exactly. The silicone bends to/from the intercooler core serve as the flex joints for engine movement. Did you get the firewall cut already? Howd it fit up?

 

Yes, it's in. There was a gap on the top. Issue was that the topside is a bit curved, so there was a gap in the middle, with the corners fitting perfectly. I used an aluminum L-profile and kit to close that gap. And I had to make a small hatch as the -enlarged- access to the fuel pump got partly covered. In general I great idea to add some space in a critical area however.

 

@Arno, I was planning to use a bump hose (looks like a python that swallowed a sheep) instead of a bellows. The bump hose allows for 20 degrees of rotation in all directions. But it may be that the material itself has enough flexibility. In my case the outlet of the SC may be very close to the inlet of the chargecooler, in which case I have to get creative  

[Doctor Ed]

Curved? Mine was straight... was a bit buckled, so knocked 2 rivets into the top along with sika, and it all held and bonded straight...

Can see the rivets at the top
 

 

Edited by Doctor Ed, 06 April 2018 - 04:49 PM.

[alexb]

I should have looked a bit better before using the angle grinder. I removed more material at the top, essentially followed the edge just above where your rivets are. The other difference is that I used a local company selling construction material. They happened to have alu sheets and a folding machine. I cut the sheet myself and went back for the folding. That was a bit of a challenge, as all they ever do on that machine is 90 degree folds in something like 10 mm steel. Pretty impressive machine, but bit of a challenge to fold my tiny piece of alu. In the end I simplified the shape by deleting that upturned lip where your rivets are. Im not complaining though, still have all my fingers, the part fits and does the job. Now have to make it look better on the inside

[Doctor Ed]

for my own sanity, i just checked, and i did mention the line of the top cut in a PM: "[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Bulkhead you can basically cut out flush to the edges at the sides, and from the upper corners cut it out in a straight horizontal line across the top"[/color]

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]all good though, sounds like it all went in and fit up well [/color]

[alexb]

Only one to blame is me. I can get overly enthusiastic with an angle grinder. Love the things so much that I have four of them. Your drawing saved me a lot of time though, thanks again for that.

[ditonics]

Fit decent engine mounts to control the engine movement!

[Doctor Ed]

You need a flexible joint in the pipe work regardless

[Doctor Ed]

Solution to the coolant steam-line circuit issue - double banjo with pipe with upper hose fitting.

[vocky]

that is a neat solution

[Doctor Ed]

To get the motor running:

- sort out main coolant hoses in the engine bay (plus T-fittings, expansion tank circuit etc)
- intake pipework inc dodgy hummer filter
- intercooler pipework
- exhaust pipework
- hook up fr and rr brake lines
- fill and bleed brakes and clutch
- make new gearbox cable mount (5mm too short!)
- make new header tank bracket

Small fiddly stuff:
- finish routing the front wiring loom
- make front undertray air deflector panel with small vortex generators
- finish fitting 997 gt3 brake cooling deflectors
- run wire from a dash switch to the exhaust for 'loud valve' control
- tidy up center console area, tuck the wiring away, finish it off.

Medium sized fuckaround stuff:
- sort out the heat exchanger water piping, pump and fittings
- sort out heat exchanger thermostat and fan(s)
- fix small crack I just caused in the rear wheel arch, bugger
- make rearview mirror indicator lights?

Large stuff that i need to do properly:
- bond the rear Firewall back to the rollhoop (need rear stays finished for this tho)
- reweld the fittings for the heat-exchanger Core

For the rollcage guy:
- design and make new rear roll-hoop support stays / rear clam support
- design and make new harness bar
- design and make rear toe link support bar

Random bits down the immediate priority list
- bodywork!
- exhaust loud valve

Things to buy
- new portable soldering iron
- aerocatches/body fasteners

The updated done stuff


To get the motor running:
- mount new radiator, box, and front cooler circuit
- route rear heater circuit hoses
- hook up handbrake cables

Small fiddly stuff to do first:
- retrace the ABS (FL) and DRB (RR) cutout wires, and mark the switches (memory is failing)
- rerun thermostat sensor wire down the sill to the back of the car
- rewire new relay and rerun run fan control wires down the sill to the back of the car
- rewire a new rad fan override switch/relay/loom
- replace one dodgy dash switch
- refit the heater control panel and heater piping/valve assembly. set the cable in final position
- wire up and finish installing the 6sp reverse lockout mechanism
- pull the shifter and handbrake cables through the chassis in preperation for the engine/gearbox install
- replace the airbag and pretensioner control module (bought a new one as itll suck to find the one ive got doesnt work once other sh*t is finished)
- mount new driver seat mounts and enjoy the newfound legroom
- set rivnuts in the floor for the shifter assembly and reinforce the fcuking flex thing
- fit pk5-880 alternator belt
- Need a new Spal fan, the old one sounds like a helicopter

Medium sized fcuk around stuff:
- Swap the ABS control module for the 4chan Deawoo one I got (S108196010 C)
- Bend up new brake cross-over hardlines and fit to the ABS pump
- Finish the fueltank/pump wiring and speedflow hose assembly, and remount the tank
- Finish the speedflow lines to the 044 and surgetank
- mount the brake fluid reservoir and hoses to the master cyl- need to sort some fcuking Fittings (fcuk you!)
- mount the gearbox and get it definitively hooked up
- modify/make new exhaust/muffler hanging Mounts

Large stuff I need to do properly:
- Fit and bond new crashbox
- Fit and bond new windscreen surround
- Jig up and reweld the hardtop mounts to the rollbar
- design and make the W2A core mounting brackets
- design and make a new rear Firewall section to enclose the W2A intercooler core
- reweld the W2A core water fittings to suit 25mm ID hose (in progress)

Random bits down the immediate priority list :
- need to get me some reinforced motor mount bushes
- i busted the reverse switch on the box off. oops
- need to mount a new clutch slave cyl to avoid that sinking feeling of a leaking clutch once all assembled
- Need to make up slave cyl hoses including a bleeder port for the single hosed concentric slave
- figure out the layout of this goddamn coolant circuit
- flywheel Version 2 is in the works due to stuff-up with Version 1
- put engine in!

Bought
- clutch lines/splitter/bleeder
- more loom tape
- stainless bar stock

[Doctor Ed]

so what's the saying? measure 100 times, cut 20?

 

pipe layout idea evolved a bit whilst cutting and mocking up. couldve done myself a favour and started with this idea first and save a couple of hours of fcuking around, but whos counting.

 

 

 

also decided its time to 'finish' things up the front. aside from a bleed, front left corner is now complete, all loose ends tied up, everything torqued and ready to roll. 

 

front right tomorrow

 

[Nev]

 

... couldve done myself a favour and started with this idea first and save a couple of hours of fcuking around, but whos counting.

 

Don't forget the forces of entropy are always at work on every man!

 

Any idea when this thing will be ready to roll?

[Doctor Ed]

Actually the opposite of entropy, becoming simpler and more organised in time. Running... god knows, can't be too long now

[Arno]

so what's the saying? measure 100 times, cut 20?   pipe layout idea evolved a bit whilst cutting and mocking up. couldve done myself a favour and started with this idea first and save a couple of hours of fcuking around, but whos counting.

Ah.. The joys of 'figuring stuff out' instead of just being able to bolt-on-and-tweak some bits Can be frustrating to spend a whole day on a car and at the end be left with a few measely brackets or pipes that should really have taken 5 minutes to make.. But took about a zillion tries to find the best and neatest solution. And once you have something that you're happy with.. In about 3 months you'll realise there was another option that's better!!

 

Oh well.. Part of doing stuff outside the envelope of 'regular' solutions I guess

 

Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

Ah.. The joys of 'figuring stuff out'

pretty much describes building this car - but thats the point really - i need the mental chewing-gum outside of work

[The Batman]

Did I read you needed one of these bud

[Doctor Ed]

Hey joe, yeah! I've just sent the bloke a message saying you've got it... feel free to send me a PM with a price