1268 replies to this topic

[Doctor Ed]

Continuing my trend of finding things to do that don’t bring the car closer to actually driving.... I made a spring loaded window net release, taking advantage of the oem Hardtops fixation points.

[Doctor Ed]

Photo dump time...

Part 1 - went and got the front clam out of storage, and am starting to rough out the needy to get it mounted.

[Doctor Ed]

Part 2 - got uprights and sundry other parts back from laser cutters, and got Dominik from Kopp Racing to do the welding (needed it done properly, not some of my birdshit splatter)

[Doctor Ed]

Part 3 - drilled and tapped the core endplate supports, and made everything fit together. The core endplate supports I also grooved along the outside with a grinder so the bond with the carbonfibre there is mechanically keyed, and will never rip apart

[Doctor Ed]

Part 4 - bonded some flanged captured nuts into the wing core (specifically for laminates with big perforated flanges) and did a first reinforcing layer of 245gsm over the mounts

[Doctor Ed]

Part 5 - not many pics here as being covered in resin and having hands like a negro Chewbacca isn’t conducive to taking photos. Summarized... with the core out of the mould (the female halves of the cut foam core) hand laid 2 layers of 245gsm twill up wet directly onto the core. Then with the mould (as I knew this was going to be a one off, so wanted to minimize my time investment) i simply laid a shiny 0.5mm PVC sheet into the mould, and laid the core directly onto this without any further prep. I then wrapped the pvc over the leading edge of the core, and draped it over the top in one smooth move (first pic below. pvc is shiny side to the carbon, textured side up). Gently squeegeed the pvc smooth and laid the top half of the female mould directly on top. So foam core, wrapped in carbon, wrapped in pvc sandwiched into the female halves of the cut foam (according to the foam cutter guy the cutting wire takes about 0.8mm of material away, so my 0.5mm pvc sheet left 0.4mm of space for my laminate, which was about right). This all then went into a vac bag and got parked and ignored for 48hrs

[Doctor Ed]

Part 6 - the reveal. Did I fcuk it up or not?! I did not! Released from the pvc perfectly. Some pinholing and a couple of air inclusions, but nothing heart breaking. 99% fcuking unreal result for a first crack. Post cured it for about 4hrs (2/side) under a IR light. Managed to hold it at 80degC. (the post cure recommendation is 120degC. Couldn’t get it that hot in my foyer) *shrugs* also managed to find my fasteners again without much drama (measure thrice!) and only needed a gentle thread chase

[Doctor Ed]

Part 7 - standardized internet measure of wing strength, tested according to ISO norms at 20degC

[Doctor Ed]

Part 8 - mounted. Mental hi fives

[Doctor Ed]

[Doctor Ed]

And the obligatory ‘it’s too hard to convey this in 2D so here’s a quick vid’ video

[FLD]

Lovely job!

[Rosssco]

Nice job Ed.! Well, the design and machining, I know nothing about compsites

 

Side ECU / electrical question - what did you do for the VSS (vehicle speed signal) on your motor? Take the original one from the ABS controller, or tap into the ABS sensor direct?

[BadCop]

  swan neck style and really wide wing 

 

 

Nice job Ed.! Well, the design and machining, I know nothing about compsites

 

Side ECU / electrical question - what did you do for the VSS (vehicle speed signal) on your motor? Take the original one from the ABS controller, or tap into the ABS sensor direct?

 

That's not that easy with the original ECU.

It needs the VSS signal via HS-CAN Bus.

If no signal is present your ECU will limit the Power to about 80 bhp and the Revs to about 3000.

 

On the "kopp racing" ECU I implemented a digital pulse input pin and changed the software to accept a physical input on the ECU.

You can directly use the VSS wire that goes to the original ECU.

 

Then I adjusted a calculation parameter to match the output VSS of the ABS Controller.

 

[Rosssco]

  swan neck style and really wide wing 

 

 

Nice job Ed.! Well, the design and machining, I know nothing about compsites

 

Side ECU / electrical question - what did you do for the VSS (vehicle speed signal) on your motor? Take the original one from the ABS controller, or tap into the ABS sensor direct?

 

That's not that easy with the original ECU.

It needs the VSS signal via HS-CAN Bus.

If no signal is present your ECU will limit the Power to about 80 bhp and the Revs to about 3000.

 

On the "kopp racing" ECU I implemented a digital pulse input pin and changed the software to accept a physical input on the ECU.

You can directly use the VSS wire that goes to the original ECU.

 

Then I adjusted a calculation parameter to match the output VSS of the ABS Controller.

 

Thanks Dominik - This sounds like the correct way to do it.

 

I know in HP Tuners you can change the scaling to calibrate for different wheel speed inputs or tyre rolling radius, if you have a separate VSS sensor (like the older E39, I think). 

[BadCop]

Exactly that is the Value I mapped my new DI-Pulse to.

 

So any chiptuner or even GM / Opel can match the wheelspeed if you change the tyre size.

Or of course you can use Efilive / HP Tuners or similar to change that value.

 

 

Well I was looking for another way first.

I wanted to emulate the Astra ABS on the CAN Bus.

Turned out it was not possible even with the secret DBC File

The problem was there are three CAN-Bus Systems on the Astra VXR.

ABS-ECU uses two of them simultanously... nightmare.

 

 

The direct link from VX220 ABS via an existing VSS wire to A20NFT ECU was a lot of work for me but the easiest way for the user to replicate it now

Just take the VX220 VSS Wire, solder or crimp on a pin, then insert the pin into the OE A20NFT Loom - done.

 

 

 

[Rosssco]

So the VX ABS does that produce a simple pulse, or is it in some other form? Presumably not CAN as its not used on the VX I think?

 

I wasn't sure if you reused the X2 / X3 connectors on your swaps, or bypassed these all together (with good reason!)

[Exmantaa]

Vx ABS signal is a 0-5v square wave from memory.

 

(For the LSJ ecu we needed a +/- sin signal, but the square wave through a capacitor was enough.)

[Rosssco]

Vx ABS signal is a 0-5v square wave from memory.
 
(For the LSJ ecu we needed a +/- sin signal, but the square wave through a capacitor was enough.)

 
Was that the ABS signal from the controller (through loom connector) or direct from a hub sensor?

 

Makes sense for the LSJ ECU - think that originally uses a F35 gearbox which has a physical speed sensor / sender (rather than an ABS signal)

[BadCop]

Yep, 5V Pulse Signal. Frequency = Speed.

It is the same Signal (same wire) that goes to the Dash.

 

On the VX220 it is Pin 11 on X3. A Yellow wire with grey stripe.

 

You can delete X2 and X3 as they often cause trouble because of the poor sealing.

 

Almost all wires (like VSS, the 6 Acc-Pedal wires, supply voltage, etc.) that come from the car harness go to the new A20NFT Connector X1 (blue).

 

So that blue connector becomes the new vehicle harness termination.

 

That means you only disconnect the new X2 (black) and new X3 (grey) from the A20NFT ECU and you can take out the engine.

 

Apart from 3-4 wires which still come from the engine loom.

Those wires I always connect through a small AMP connector like that: