243 replies to this topic

[Exmantaa]

You can "bypass" the bypass by removing the hose from the actuator (and block the tube). This will have it closed all the time, also during cruising. (normally a ruptured actuator will have the valve not open conpletely during vacuum/low load conditions)

Spring pressure should close the valve without vacuum and the pressure can be easily tested by hand.

[Jocke_D]

So me and the beloved Speedster are just about waking from our winter hibernation. Every winter all funny cars and most bikes in Sweden go into a deep rest but somewhere around this time the sun comes out, the roads are sweeped and you start seeing the "summer rides" coming out on to the streets. I love it

 

So, what's new then?

Nothing. Absolutely nothing at all has happened over winter!

My goal was to build a new exhaust but no. Nothing. The car was stil dirty from last year when the first start of the year was pulled of a couple of weeks ago. But planning has been going on and last weekend I went to pick up some stuff that hopefully will get me started on building a second, stronger engine.

What I so far has brought home is an empty Z22SE block, a Z22SE crank and a B207 head. Some minor misc stuff as well.

 

The plan, in step A, is to build a pretty basic engine with forged rods and pistons and the head untouched (haven't decided about cams [Z22SE/B207/LSJ?] yet). Step A lets me build the engine in peace, with the car still on track. Hopefully I'll do the swap during next winter.

 

Later steps include porting, valve springs, exhaust, more cooling, perhaps WI etc but for now I will just get the engine working.

 

The first stuff to buy is rods/pistons. Any pointers where to look that I don't know of? I'm leaning towards this...

Next step is to decide if I should hone or bore or change the liners. I'm thinking changing the liners would be best regarding price/effort/result. Why should I do one of the other alternatives? How much work is involved in changing the liners?

 

The engine build will be really slow as my life is filled with so much other stuff (kids, house, wife, bikes etc) that costs time and money.

 

Oh, and I passed this years MOT earlier today as well

[OneYet]

Läckert!

[Jocke_D]

Like a bleak Indiana Jones copycat I'm digging up this old thread now

 

To make a long story short, kind of...

Started racing Supermoto again in 2017 after the kids had grown up a bit. The Speedster did get less and less love but was never gonna sell it. Did buy a set of Eltech CF seats and a GT4 (was blue, now repainted black) wing that have been mounted. Need some spacers still to change the angle of the seats but that's a small job. Also bought a diffuser from Jon which is still sleeping in the box it came in.

 

My last posts in this thread was about buying parts to build a new engine for more boost and power. All that stuff is up for sale since I have bought an already finished engine (wohooo) which I hope will find its new home during winter (more to come about that later on)

Bought the engine and lots of stuff from a guy who wanted to sell a car together with all the stuff he had. We'll get back to what all this stuff is was later on (some things are actually pretty cool). The first thing I need help with is the new dampers.

They are from GAZ and since I have never before worked on a cars suspension I am sort of lost even though I understand how most of it work from my bikes.

 

I got one set of rear dampers and two fronts. Two main questions arise. Which pair to mount on the front and how do I know how much pre load to use? There were helper springs in the box that have been used but don't know if I really need them. I have kind of access to scales for corner weight.

 

These are the rear ones

 

 

The slightly longer front ones. They are something like 4-5mm longer.

 

 

 

The shorter front ones

Edited by Jocke_D, 13 December 2020 - 12:25 PM.