243 replies to this topic

[smiley]

Stop teasing chill

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

The problem with using E85 is that the intake temps are measured at manifold before the fuel is injected so a Tmap will be giving manifold temps

[Exmantaa]

I keep forgetting the OP is still on a stock block tht is limited by conrod strength to ~260HP. So doesn't really make sense to go E85 for more power, as that will probably break the Z22SE block...

 

As said, put a big oilcooler rad vertical in the crashbox and use a 3.35 pulley; done.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

i didnt realise that lol

 

[Jocke_D]

Thanks again for all the interest

 

E85 is absolutely no problem, every gas station that sells gas also sell E85. The main reason why I'm thinking E85 is to avoid knocking (the second beeing temps and third doing something different). Is that not a problem at all? I haven't heard about any one conversion that has lowered compression so I guess it's not a problem?

Like somebody said before, ignition backs up starting at 57deg of the compressed air. Is there any way of increasing those 57deg knowing the car is mapped with E85? Maybe Peter can do that? If one measures the exhaust temps and of course intake air temp), wouldn't that be a pretty good indicator of the combustion temps? Or am I way off here?

 

 

 

However...

You guys are pretty convincing/persistant about the larger front mounted cooler ( )so now I'm leaning to use a 3.5" and 98oct just to keep things as simple as possible. With an ear rad of course.

As a software developer I'm often reminded that KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) is a pretty good way of dealing with stuff.

If that gives me some 210 that would still be a huge improvement over standard

 

 

Maybe I should start mounting the SC etc instead of sitting behind a desk and acting like a useless keyboard jockey

That work would absolutely raise more stupid noob questions...

[smiley]

yes, Peter can send you a basemap with a raised dial back option when you specifically ask for it.

 

 

 

Also lots of computergeeks seem to like the speedster/vx220

 

Edited by smiley, 26 January 2016 - 01:24 PM.

[tibby]

The computergeeks are the ones we need for tuning....
They're the brain of all this........
 
I only can start my car and  drive it.

































Now eat, me hungry

[Jocke_D]

Was some time now since i wrote something here.

Have been talking CC rads with Batman and doing some work in the garage.

 

The plan, for now at least, is to go with the (cheapish) ear rad solution this year together with a 3.5" pulley.

I have a set of Siemens injectors. They're 875cc if I'm correct, the marking says 127 90 827. ODBTuner will work with these and they'll be ok for me, right?!

 

Yesterday I took off the intake and found that my alternator probably will be ok. Hope I'm correct...

Of course I introduced the SC intake to the head but they were a bit distant to each other at first. I circled the bolt I need to grind down (I think). Correct me if I'm wrong

Do I dare grind it down still in the car or is that a bad idea. Feels like much could go wrong if I don't do it on the bench I guess...

 

The worst part so far of this undertaking is one of the two tie wraps (tie wraps? think I'm more into American english than her majestys ) on the underside of the intake holding some wiring. What a pita to get to...

But if that is the worst part so far I think it has goen pretty well. So far...

 

 

At this point I'm really starting to think about ODBTuner. Does anyone know more about v3? I really don't want to pay for the latest 2.x just to find that a month later 3.0 is released.

Edited by Jocke_D, 02 February 2016 - 10:17 AM.

[Captain Vimes]

Modifying the alternator is slightly more involved than just chopping that bolt down. You need to modify the cap and change how the positive lead connects. As you'll be taking the bolts out of the alternator anyway to fit the idler for the SC belt, I'd suggest it's easier to just modify it on the bench.

[Jocke_D]

Aha! Had not yet realized that it needed to go away for the idler. That made the decision easy, thanks

The idler is on it's way from CMS as we speak.

 

Remember reading about the alternator mod way before I decided to go SC but can't find it again. Any ideas?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

There big injectors for stage 2

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 02 February 2016 - 02:58 PM.

[techieboy]

There big injectors for stage 2

 

 

Mahoooosive. Unless they're needed because E85 is so inefficient.

[Jocke_D]

Got an hour in the garage last night removing the alternator, injectors, fuel rail etc. Don't think there is any stuff left now to remove

 

Started to look into what needs to be done to the alternator, more in detail, and got a bit worried. All pics I could find here in the various threads seem to show another alternator than the one I have. Could you SC Yodas please take a look at my picture from yesterday and say if it will work or if I must go on the same search as Vimes did (read the thread again last night).

And also if you could please direct me to a thread that shows more in detail what I need to do. If i remember correctly there was a lot of good info from Smiley when he did his!?

 

The last thing I found last night was that I couldn't find a definite way to mount the intake bracket that goes under the intake. I think I figured it out but not 100%. Any pics of the bracket mounted would really help.

 

 

Naturally I couldn't resist to mock intake and SC up. This pic is of course of little interest as it shows nothing new but it's kind of a mile stone for me 

Sorry for the messy garage

[Jocke_D]

Forgot one thing. The TMAP sensor...

 

Is this one ok ? - http://www.ebay.co.u...0IAAOSwrklVWz9y

 

If not, does anyone have a GM article number for the one to use? That would help a lot 

The missus runs the body shop at the local GM dealer so it's often really easy to get stock stuff, new or used.

Edited by Jocke_D, 03 February 2016 - 09:49 AM.

[smiley]

The 2.5 bar tmap sensor is a bosch, with part number 0261230042

(download the obdtuner client and open a dummy map. It will then show all options with the part numbers in the parameters tab)

 

The 2.5 bar tmap has a 4 pin connection (versus 3 on the 2 bar map sensor):

 

So to connect to the tmap sensor you need a 4 point plug.
(as you are now combining the wires of your temp sensor from the inlet pipe, and the wires from the map sensor on the inlet manifold into one)

 

You can either use the plug from an old postcat lambda if you have one lying around, as it's a perfect match, or buy new:
http://www.simtekuk....1/?k=:::1732215

Edited by smiley, 03 February 2016 - 10:06 AM.

[techieboy]

Using OBDTuner? Then you want either of these:   2.5bar TMAP Bosch Part No: 0261230042 (GM Part No: 93170309) 3.0 bar TMAP Bosch Part No: 0281002437

Edited by techieboy, 03 February 2016 - 10:13 AM.

[smiley]

Remember reading about the alternator mod way before I decided to go SC but can't find it again. Any ideas?

 

Basically there are 2 alternators out there. The 100a which is good, and the 120a which is a pita, because it's slightly wider, and touches the SC manifold:
It's about a 5 mm difference.

 

Once you have the 100a (it shows the 100A or 120A on the plastic cover of the alternator), remove the plastic cover completely.

Cut off the large bolt to a minimum, where you can still attach the power cable though.

 

Inside that plastic cap is a resistor. (to make sure the alternator does not interfere your radio)
Some put it back, some don't.

The above middle picture shows the resistor beeing re-used by extending the wires.

The main power cable is moved from the side of the plastic cap, directly onto the large bolt. (that you will cut)

 

So with a 100a, all you do is:
- Remove the plastic cover.
- Cut off a piece of the large bolt.

 

(I have no idea if and how a 120a can be made to work)

 

Does that make sense?

 

Edited by smiley, 03 February 2016 - 10:53 AM.

[Jocke_D]

You guys are absolutely incredible !! :)Two things about the TMAP though.Why would I want the 3 bar over the 2.5 bar (apart from the wider measuring band)?Is there a GM number for the 3 bar? Or cars (model, year) that would have had it if I want to go to the breakers?I'll probably get back about how to wire it up later on ;)Excellent guide how to mod the alternator. And now I get why the main lead is moved from the original place. Didn't make sense before.I think alternator mod will be the goal for tonight :)I have gone through Vimes and Chills threads now (again) and there were some good stuff in Vimes but Chills pics doesn't seem to work ?Maybe, if I get the time, I'll download the OBDTuner client tonight and start playing with it. Might be time for a first contact with Peter as well and see what he thinks.Has anyone tried running OBDTuner on a Win10 tablet?Have aranged for a welding magician buddy to do the dual pass mod next week so that work is continuing as well. Delivery from CMS with idler pulley will be late this week or early next. Must order the new, bigger (boooooring) pulleys as well.

[techieboy]

2.5bar TMAP Bosch Part No: 0261230042 (GM Part No: 93170309) 3.0 bar TMAP Bosch Part No: 0281002437 (GM Part No: 93171176) I'm using the 3.0bar sensor on my car (M62, 2.9" pulley ~1bar of boost) purely because the genuine 3.0bar Bosch TMAP sensors are half the price of the 2.5bar sensors. I guess, assuming the voltage ranges on the sensor are the same, the 2.5bar TMAP would give slightly better resolution of the actual manifold pressure but I think I'd still have to use the same pressure range setting in OBDTuner whichever sensor I used. ETA: Yes, I'm using OBDTuner on a Win10 tablet (and a laptop). As long as the OBDII interface you buy has drivers that work with Win8 or better (and probably Win7 in reality), you shouldn't have an issue.

Edited by techieboy, 03 February 2016 - 12:50 PM.

[Jocke_D]

Excellent, once more

I've put the missus to see what she can find at the shop.

 

 

 

Sounds good about the tablet. Would be great not having to bring the laptop every time into the car.

 

 

 

The formatting of my last post looks terrible for some reason. I'm not able to edit it. Why?