243 replies to this topic

[Exmantaa]

That one is called EVAP purge valve (or something like that; from evaporation...) Just extend the 2 wires.

If you're fitting an 68mm TB, you will need to swap some connector pins around for that to work, but take care you use the RIGHT scheme. (There is still that faulty swap scheme somewhere in an SC conversion instruction...)

 

And for the IC waterpump you will need to wire-up a 12v relay and use a suitable turn-on signal. Use the ignition-on signal or the white/purple fuel pump switch wire that goes to the X2-connector.

[Jocke_D]

The hvap connector wires needs to be extended. (2)

(that thing that plugs into that weird hoses contruction just under your fuel filler neck.  

 

Big thanks. This time I actually had a quick read of the manual before asking but didn't find anything

I'll probably get confused once back in the garage and post some pictures accompanied by some questions...

 

 

 

 

Regarding new belt for the SC...

Since my plan is to play it safe and use a BIGGER pulley than standard, what belt lengths do you think would be good for me?

Is there enough play in the tensioner to use the same for both 3.3 and 3.5 or do I have to use two different belts (there won't be that many miles before I go smaller, I hope)?

[Jocke_D]

That one is called EVAP purge valve (or something like that; from evaporation...) Just extend the 2 wires.

If you're fitting an 68mm TB, you will need to swap some connector pins around for that to work, but take care you use the RIGHT scheme. (There is still that faulty swap scheme somewhere in an SC conversion instruction...)

 

And for the IC waterpump you will need to wire-up a 12v relay and use a suitable turn-on signal. Use the ignition-on signal or the white/purple fuel pump switch wire that goes to the X2-connector.

Missed this one yesterday

 

I have a bigger TB but don't remember the size, think it's the 68mm though. I've seen the confusion regarding the scheme, will try to use the right one. Thanks for the heads up

 

The ignition signal was exactly what I was thinking, just didn't know where to find it. Thanks!

 

 

 

Got the idler pulley from CMS yesterday. For some reason I assumed they had included the longer bolts to mount it

m8 x 150 would do the trick, correct?! Will just have to get one of the stores here to crack open a box of bolts and sell me just two instead of a hundred

 

 

 

 

And to finish this post up. A couple more questions.

Anyone has an idea about what length SC belt I'll need with the 3.5 pulley?

 

I'm thinking I'll reroute the fuel lines to run from the filter, under the new TB with new hoses. No problem with the feeding one, that'll connect to the fuel rail and filter. The return on the other hand will connect to the fuel rail at one end but what about the other. Doesn't feel good to connect it to a plastic hose. Was thinking about routing it all the way to the tank to ge ta solid mounting point. Any ideas?

And speaking of filter, is there any point in upgrading it, and if so, to what?

[Jocke_D]

 

I have a bigger TB but don't remember the size, think it's the 68mm though. I've seen the confusion regarding the scheme, will try to use the right one. Thanks for the heads up

 

 

Was almost sure but not 100%, had to go out to check. Of course it was the 68mm. Painted in a gourgeos metallic blue 

It will look superb with the natural aluminium intake, black charger and blue TB. How about I get some red and maybe orange silicone hoses to match 

[Jocke_D]

Well, got a couple of hours in today as well.

 

Today was mostly about stripping wire looms and scratching my head thinking about what everything is, where everything should go and how to do it without making it look like crap.

I think got everything covered but here are some control questions and also I hope a pretty good guide for the future...

 

Red are injectors

Blue is the EVAP connector that goes to the small box thingy next to the water hose near the SC belt  

Green are the wires that go to the new TMAP. Two of them show the same connector/wire.

 

 

 

 

What is this?

It's a 4 pin connector located just under the hole into the boot (if the rear clam was still on)

 

 

 

And finally. In the kit I bought from the states there were 4 injectors with loom.

In the end there is a five pin connector. Is it possible to find the corresponding female connector ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have been emailing with Peter as well and it turns out my Google-Fu wasn't very good when I found that my injectors were 875cc. It turns out they are "only" 410cc (which is actually really good for me). That together with the fact that OBDTuner Pro won't be released until summer and the current 2.x doesn't handle E85 very well (Pro will though) made me decide to scrap the E85 idea for now.

 

 

Todays mistake was actually made last week. Like the fool I am I didn't mark the injectors when I removed the connectors. The wires are brown-red, brown-blue, br-green and br-yellow plus ground to each one of course. Which one goes to which cylinder?

I think I have a pretty good idea of which one belongs where but that isn't enough.

[techieboy]

What is this? It's a 4 pin connector located just under the hole into the boot (if the rear clam was still on)

Not used (as long as you haven't disconnected your lambda sensors in which case it might be a lambda connection). Some hangover from a Vectra or Astra.  

Todays mistake was actually made last week. Like the fool I am I didn't mark the injectors when I removed the connectors. The wires are brown-red, brown-blue, br-green and br-yellow plus ground to each one of course. Which one goes to which cylinder? I think I have a pretty good idea of which one belongs where but that isn't enough.

http://www.speedster...e Z22SE - 1.pdf

[smiley]

What is this?

It's a 4 pin connector located just under the hole into the boot (if the rear clam was still on)

 

 

 

Lotus put that connector in, so that some day you will accidentally plug in your postcat lambda plug in it, and the car will run rusbish.

 

 

[Jocke_D]

 

What is this? It's a 4 pin connector located just under the hole into the boot (if the rear clam was still on)

Not used (as long as you haven't disconnected your lambda sensors in which case it might be a lambda connection). Some hangover from a Vectra or Astra.  

Todays mistake was actually made last week. Like the fool I am I didn't mark the injectors when I removed the connectors. The wires are brown-red, brown-blue, br-green and br-yellow plus ground to each one of course. Which one goes to which cylinder? I think I have a pretty good idea of which one belongs where but that isn't enough.

http://www.speedster...e Z22SE - 1.pdf

 

See below regarding the missing connector

 

Thanks for the PDF, that was really confusing until I looked at page 2  

That clears everything up and wil lprobably be helpful later on as well.

 

 

What is this?

It's a 4 pin connector located just under the hole into the boot (if the rear clam was still on)

 

 

 

 

Lotus put that connector in, so that some day you will accidentally plug in your postcat lambda plug in it, and the car will run rusbish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks so much for clearing that out with the missing connector! Couldn't remember that I had unplugged it even how hard I tried, was bugging the hell out of me...

There was oen unused under the intake as well but that one I remembered.

[Jocke_D]

Well I'm back

 

Been away skiing again. And will be going the upcoming week as well.

 

Not much have happened here. But in the netherlands and in the USA

I've been talking to Peter trying to finalize my setup. He thought that a 3.4" pulley would be right for me. The ECU was sent on friday so should arrive today with some luck.

Nate at smoothpulleys made me two new pulleys (3.2 and 3.4) last night and they are on their way now. 

 

 

 

Before the next ski trip I'll try to talk to a local injector specialist about making a small loom for me so I don't have to cut into the car original loom.

 

Today I'll go to the shop where I ordered my new m8x150 for the alternator that should have been delivered last tuesday. And to, I guess what is our version of Halfords, to buy a XZN-MT14 bit to get the calipers off from my dads stupid Passat

[Jocke_D]

Back from sking again. This time living in the family cabin. Just one more, pretty short, ski trip left this year.

You guys would love the road up north. Last 100 or so miles is almost pure ice. And that's pretty much in the middle of Sweden.

Those sissy "ice road truckers" have no idea what our normal truck drivers go through

 

 

Back to the Speedster

When I got back there was one box at home and one to pick up at the post office. So now I have both the ECU back from Peter with base map for a 3.4" pulley. And that pulley (together with it's 3.2 brother) is located in a box next to me on the desk at the office. Nathan at Smoothpulleys was really good to deal with. And fast. The pulleys look good. Now I'll just have to find out if the pulleys fit my ZZP mps.

 

Two finishing questions...

Any ideas what length belt I need to get for my 3.4 / 3.2 pulleys? Hopefully I can get one that takes both sizes.

This one is perhaps a bit stupid. How are the cylinders numbered? Is 1 closest to the gearbox or is it 4?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

It would be around a 1270 belt maybe a touch bigger

[Exmantaa]

Fort standard stage 2 with a 3.35" pulley I normally fit a 5pk1280 belt. (the 1270 is a real stretch)

So with your 3.4 pulley can go maybe a tad bigger, but it's only a few mm's difference. => buy a 1280 or 1285 

[Captain Vimes]

As above. 1270 is a stretch. I think I went for a 1280 which went nicely on a 3.35" so 1285 should work on a 3.4" pulley.

[smiley]

Use a piece of string to get an initial indication of length.

Should be a quick test.

[Jocke_D]

Thanks to all

I'll try to find a 1285 then.

 

 

Use a piece of string to get an initial indication of length.

Should be a quick test.

 

How come the solutions that are the simplest often are overlooked

 

 

 

 

Had to take a picture of the pulleys. From the bottom:

3.4" (guesstimating some 240hp)

3.2" (some 270?)

2.8" (several million hp)

 

There was a slight difference in the pulleys from Nathan. The chamfer on the inside was bigger on the new ones but the fit was spot on. Mounted the largest pulley and secured it with thread lock.

 

 

Next step, hopefully this weekend, will be to take a huge breath and start to cut the wiring...

[smiley]

label each wire before cutting.

 

[OneYet]

label each wire before cutting.

 

Or do like I did. 

I was even afraid of labeling wrong. 

I did a cut and then soldered the new wire. 

One at a time. 

[Rosssco]

As above. 1270 is a stretch. I think I went for a 1280 which went nicely on a 3.35" so 1285 should work on a 3.4" pulley.

 

1270 also won't fit if you've added an intake spacer along with alternator spacers.. Recently tried..

 

1280 - 1290 seems spot on.

[Jocke_D]

I went with a 1280. We'll see if it fits

 

 

As I said early on in this thread this is a multi stage, multi year build. Next step is probably to increase CC and build another exhaust. Later on there will be forged internals or a different engine. 

Pro's with using the same engine is obviously cost, I won't have to buy another engine. Con's is it will take time to build which means not driving the car. With another engine I can build it "on the side", during summer even, and not lose any time on the road.

So I'm thinking (fantasies right now) about what engine to buy and start to modify...

Since I want ot use my OBDTuner, engine mounts etc (meaning I'll use something from the Ecotec family) I've come up with three different paths. Let's see how you like'em

 

1. B207. Either with 2.0 crank or perhaps 2.2 like Chill or even a 2.4 crank.

2.0 = more revs. 2.2 = "as is". 2.4 more volume but how about revs, will I lose more than I gain in the end?

The big question regarding B207's are what I would need to do to make it work in my car? Trigger wheel etc...

If I were to search for a B207, which would be best B207L / B207R? I'm thinking about what cams would suit me the best.

B207's are pretty common here. I can buy one for some £100-120. Those will have covered some 150k miles though, what do I need to change internally?

How many miles would be acceptable before I need to change internals due to wear? Could be cheaper in the end to get a low mileage engine rather than the cheapest one with lots of miles.

 

2. Another Z22SE with forged internals. Perhaps with a Saab head? Almost the same as above with an extra 0.2l included. Forged internals obviously.

I'm guessing I would have a harder time to source a Z22SE here compared to a B207.

 

3. A 2.4 Ecotec from the states.

As above but with another 0.2l. Saab head? A friend of mine is going to Florida later this year to buy a couple of cars and shipping them home. I can easily get an extra engine in that container.

 

This is just me thinking out loud really fast. There is obviously lots of stuff to consider before I can take the next step. Just wanted to hear your thoughts.

 

 

Feel free to add more set ups

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

ive driven a 2.0 and own a 2.2 but cant comment on the bigger cc 2.4 and beyond 

 

so between the 2.0 and 2.2 

 

the 2.2 does not suffer from lack of revving not sure where this has come from maybe there is some technical explanation somewhere but i rev the 2.2 to 7500 rpms with out any issue

the 2.0 has considerably less torque, it was very noticeable when i drove the 2.0 

 

down sides

 

the 2.0 need a external trigger wheel and all the other bits to go with it. in standard form its debatable how good it is, and how its coping in SC conversions 

 

the 2.2 needs a z22se crank and forged internals and valve springs  so can be quite costly to do this.