243 replies to this topic

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

To the sc just in top of the that pic It's brake vacuum Need a other bit of pipe

[Exmantaa]

The X2/X3 connectors are placed at the back of the header tank bracket. (from there the wire go to the boot relays) The thin white purple wire is activation signal for the relay. Use this for your chargecooler pump relay.

[smiley]

To the sc just in top of the that pic

It's brake vacuum
Need a other bit of pipe

 

Yeah, that.

 

 

Check if the rubber end on the other side of that plastic valve at your middle finger has not become brittle or torn.
That can happen over time, and you need that to support your braking.
 

Edited by smiley, 19 May 2016 - 11:03 AM.

[Jocke_D]

You guys are absolutely AMAZING. I've been on a lot of different car/bike forums but none - NONE - are as fast and to the point as here    

 

I like Smileys pic. This way it's impossible to misunderstand.

 

I thought the connectors under the tank was the X2/X3 but couldn't find the white/purple one there. I'll have another look.

 

Thanks a lot.

 

[tibby]

.....   I like Smileys pic.....

That means something else in the Netherlands/Belgium :-)

[Jocke_D]

 

.....   I like Smileys pic.....

That means something else in the Netherlands/Belgium :-)

 

 

 

Haha, and I'm afraid I can guess what it means

 

 

 

 

Anyway, hooked up the remaining stuff that was needed to press the button. Not much happenes unfortunately.

 

Fuel pump relay clicks but I can't hear the pump. There doesn't seem to be any fuel in the fuel lines. I opened the valve on the fuel rail and there was no pressure or even smell of fuel. Measured on the larger white/purple wire ("in the boot") but no voltage.

 

The throttle valve can be seen to move when I press the starter button.

If I f*cked up the pin switch for the 68mm TB what kind of problem will that cause?

 

There is a click from the starter motor when I press the button. Does not turn. Measured the feed - ok.

 

Some other stuff make some noise but can't pinpoint where it comes from.

 

Is there a way to tell if the starter inhibitor relay is ok?

What happens when you try to start the car but the inhibitor won't let you. Will the pump prime, for instance? Will the starter motor turn?

 

Three blinks of the indicators means alarm is on and one long is off. Correct?

 

Could a faulty ground to the ECU cause this?

 

I should of course mention that when I started to strip the car I accidentally put the boot relays on the silencer and there was a spark when the relay that was missing it's cover (!) touched the aluminium. Don't remember if it was K16 or K14 but I replaced it with one from another car. I assume there is no magic involved with these relays so that should be ok.

Checked both fuses in the boot and seem ok.

 

What kind of checks and measurements shall I start with?

 

I have probably left out half the stuff I did but please try to advise me. What kind of checks should I do with Opcom/OBDTuner?

Edited by Jocke_D, 19 May 2016 - 09:34 PM.

[Exmantaa]

For starters the ecu housing needs a ground wire attached!

 

Then on ignition-on you shoud hear the pump priming till there is pressure and hear the TB clicking and moving a bit.

Starter should turn over by pressing the button.

 

(The OEM alarm has no influence on the engine starting as it's not connected to the ecu. Aftermarket alarm can be different.)

[Jocke_D]

Forgot one thing immediately.

Tried the "test fuel relay" function in Opcom. The relay clicks but nothing more happens. I assume the pump should be active when this test is executed?! 

[smiley]

brown relay = ecu
yellow relay = starter
grey relay = fuel pump

 

If you feel the fuel pump relay is bad, just swap it for one from the front:

 

The connectors in the boot that the relays go in are color coded. Double check you did not make an error there.

Edited by smiley, 19 May 2016 - 09:59 PM.

[Jocke_D]

For starters the ecu housing needs a ground wire attached!

 

Then on ignition-on you shoud hear the pump priming till there is pressure and hear the TB clicking and moving a bit.

Starter should turn over by pressing the button.

 

(The OEM alarm has no influence on the engine starting as it's not connected to the ecu. Aftermarket alarm can be different.)

 

I extended the ground wire that was attached to the housing so that is attached in the same way in the ECU's new location.

I was thinking there could be a problem like what I'm having now if I somehow didn't succeed.

 

I thought I should hear the pump but wasn't sure. Don't remember if the TB made some noise at ignition on or if it was when I pressed the button. Probably at ignition on... The TB valve could also be seen moving.

 

Measured the voltage on the starter before pushing and during pushing the button. Almost no drop in voltage.

I can feel a click in the starter but nothing more happen. 

 

Good to hear about the alarm. It is the OEM one. Now I won't need to worry about having it on or off

 

Is there some way to check the starter inhibitor? How does the inhibitor work, I mean what is actually inhibited by the relay, will the starter run, will the pump prime?

 

What could have happened when the open relay touched the aluminium around the silincer?

[Jocke_D]

brown relay = ecu yellow relay = starter grey relay = fuel pump

 

If you feel the fuel pump relay is bad, just swap it for one from the front.

The connectors that the relays go in are color coded. Double check you did not make an error there.

 

I think it was the ECU relay that didn't have a cover and went bust. The other one (pump) seem to behave fine, it clicks on ignition on.

I replaced it with one from my Renault Master which I guess should work.

This is for sure one thing to look more into in the morning...

 

I assume I can replace the relays with generic ones, there can't be anything that special about them I hope!?

[Exmantaa]

maybe the fuel cut-off switch is tripped. Press that in to be sure. (rubber knob, located inside subframe, near the gearbox)

 

Do you have working headlights to see the battery is charged?

[Jocke_D]

maybe the fuel cut-off switch is tripped. Press that in to be sure. (rubber knob, located inside subframe, near the gearbox)

 

Do you have working headlights to see the battery is charged?

 

 

I was thinking about the cut off switch but couldn't remember where it is. I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks

 

Headlights work fine and I measured the battery voltage when pressing the button and it went down to some 11.5 or something like that so battery seem fine. Put a ctek on it yesterday. Will try with a charger that has a supply mode tomorrow just to be sure.

[smiley]

i'm not sure if the brown one can be swapped for a grey as a test.

Here are all the type numbers, in case you need to go shopping:

 

[D-DAWG83]

If its any help, when my starter inhibitor relay was not connected, the car would crank over, but not fire, and the fuel pump wouldnt prime. The Fuel Cut off switch is worth a go, as its simple, and easy to get to. Sounds like its something simple, just got to find what IT is

[Jocke_D]

i'm not sure if the brown one can be swapped for a grey as a test.

Here are all the type numbers, in case you need to go shopping:

 

 

 

Good point about the interchangeability, they have different number of pins. One has four and one has five. Can't remember which is which though.

My priority for today is to try to get my hands on a new - brown - relay

 

 

Does anyone have the GM parts number for these relays or know where they are placed in other cars?

 

 

 

If its any help, when my starter inhibitor relay was not connected, the car would crank over, but not fire, and the fuel pump wouldnt prime. The Fuel Cut off switch is worth a go, as its simple, and easy to get to. Sounds like its something simple, just got to find what IT is

 

 

In every bad thing, there is something good

Since my car isn't even priming or turning over that means that my inhibitor relay is (probably) fine.  Or I haven't just got there yet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Any pointers to where I should start to measure voltage to see if everything is ok?

 

Edited by Jocke_D, 20 May 2016 - 05:47 AM.

[D-DAWG83]

I hate electronics im afraid, and try to stay well clear! I dont trust what i cant see! lol

I can get you the brown relay part number if you want, but think someone already posted the part numbers and locations earlier in the tread

[D-DAWG83]

i'm not sure if the brown one can be swapped for a grey as a test.

Here are all the type numbers, in case you need to go shopping:

 

 

K18-Siemens AMR1088

[smiley]

Does anyone have the GM parts number for these relays or know where they are placed in other cars?

 

 

The brown and grey are from a range rover, hence easier to use the siemens serial numbers on those to find them. The yellow one is in a league of it's own, and we are still struggeling to find out what it is: http://www.vx220.org...w-starter-relay

 

Edited by smiley, 20 May 2016 - 07:39 AM.

[Jocke_D]

 

i'm not sure if the brown one can be swapped for a grey as a test.

Here are all the type numbers, in case you need to go shopping:

 

 

 

K18-Siemens AMR1088

 

 

Yeah., that I got. Was thinking about the GM part number that should exist

 

 

 

 

Does anyone have the GM parts number for these relays or know where they are placed in other cars?

 

 

The brown and grey are from a range rover, hence easier to use the siemens serial numbers on those to find them.
The yellow one is in a league of it's own, and we are still struggeling to find out what it is:
http://www.vx220.org...w-starter-relay

 

 

 

The grey one seem pretty generic. Similar one was found in my Renault Master.

The brown one is a different story. I also found they are used in Range Rovers. I was hoping they are used in other GM cars as well (Saab / opel etc). Perhaps it is a Lotus thing and therefore harder to get? How come neither VX220parts och seriously lotus have them?

 

 

 

 

Does anyone know if the brown ones are the closing or switching kind?

I think they are pretty generic once you figure the function out. Our "Halfords" carry lots of relays and I think they will do the trick if I could only figure out what it does. I don't think that much magic is used when making relays

A picture of the internal schematics would help if anyone could ge tme one. It is usually printed on the cover of the relay. The cover that was missing in my car

 

 

 

42-134 is a 40A single switching relay 

42-302 is a 30A single closing relay (this is the one I'm thinking will do the trick)

(sorry for the large pictures )

 

 

42-302   ==>                             42-134     ==>