243 replies to this topic

[Jocke_D]

Followed your thread with great interest -fantastic you have sorted out the problem ! Had something quite similar and spent lots of time and effort barking up the wrong trees ,really proves the need to check & double check the basics. Enjoy your extra HP 😀

 

Thanks so much

The feeling when I found the loose bolt was incredible, I knew right away that was THE problem and it would start. And it did.

 

 

Grattis från Huskvarna!!

 

Tack å bock.

Nu ska bara min variant av 9000-filtret på plats, städa upp i lite kabelhärvorna och sen är det dags för besiktning, haha.

Kom på en lysande sak med OBDTuner, kan ju ställa ner gassvaret så den aldrig går över t.ex 50%. I kombination med löjligt lågt maxvarv borde ingen besiktare i världen kunna gnälla om för mkt pulver.

[OneYet]

 

Followed your thread with great interest -fantastic you have sorted out the problem ! Had something quite similar and spent lots of time and effort barking up the wrong trees ,really proves the need to check & double check the basics. Enjoy your extra HP 😀

 

Thanks so much

The feeling when I found the loose bolt was incredible, I knew right away that was THE problem and it would start. And it did.

 

 

Grattis från Huskvarna!!

 

Tack å bock.

Nu ska bara min variant av 9000-filtret på plats, städa upp i lite kabelhärvorna och sen är det dags för besiktning, haha.

Kom på en lysande sak med OBDTuner, kan ju ställa ner gassvaret så den aldrig går över t.ex 50%. I kombination med löjligt lågt maxvarv borde ingen besiktare i världen kunna gnälla om för mkt pulver.

 

 

Smart!

Ta väldigt gärna en bild på din filterhållare. Jag är nyfiken. 

[Jocke_D]

So extremely pleased today

 

Got the car down it's wheels yesterday (some of you might have seen it on FB).

My thoughts was to get it out, idle until warm and check for leaks and strange noises. Couldn't find any so drove it really slow around the block (relays laying free on the exhaust, seats not mounted etc). Still no leaks or noises.

 

Guess it will take a couple of days to finish the engine bay, interior and rear clam. Then it's off to MOT. It has been an interesting project since I've never done anything like this before, so glad I've taken it all the way home (well, not quite there yet). I've done a pretty basic installation with respect to time and money. No bad comes without some good which means I have lots of improvements to do later on (I see this as a good thing). Next winter I'll build better cooling and focus on handling, perhaps some brake upgrades.

 

Everything is almost done as the standard conversion.

Some stuff perhaps worth mentioning:

OBDTuner of course.

Charge cooling is done with two Kawasaki KX500 radiators, one in each ear. I know the flow will be "a bit" on the bad side but that's what I'll use this year.

Unfortunately no dual pass yet. Some thing for next year.

Bigger (!) pulley than standard to get power down a bit knowing my CC is not that great.

CC pump is an ebersprächer from a Mercedes van.

Air filter is from a Saab 9000 with some customized brackets. Standard cost some £35.

Fuel lines have been rerouted to go under the SC on the left.

TMAP sensor from a Saab 2.2 Tid (we'll see if that works when I get to drive some more and look at logs).

Home built aluminium CC tank. Measurements from Exmantaa I think (?). Thanks Oneyet

 

 

First sunlight for some six months (sorry for the messy garage )

 

 

Idling in the warm swedish pre summer night

 

 

A couple of the filter solution if someone is interested (OneYet/Fredrik )

I'm SO happy for the blue TB 

 

 

 

This also means I get to use the mats I had made last year from the group buy. "Kompressor" means supercharger

 

 

A picture my friend snapped during my extremely slow drive around the block.

 

 

 

 

I guess the next issue I'll bring up is some OBDTuner magic (right after I publish some freshly washed-with-clam-on-pictures). Hope you guys are up for that?

Edited by Jocke_D, 02 June 2016 - 07:44 AM.

[OneYet]

Yiihaaa! 

Great. And about the Saab filter. You are so much smarter than me. Very clean design. 

 

But do not take those mats to MOT. :-)

Edited by OneYet, 02 June 2016 - 02:31 PM.

[Jocke_D]

Yiihaaa! 

Great. And about the Saab filter. You are so much smarter than me. Very clean design. 

 

But do not take those mats to MOT. :-)

 

Yihaaa indeed

 

You can take a whole lot of credit for the filter. I looked at yours, thought about it for a moment and found another way of doing it. It's called evolution = step 2 need step 1 to exist

The main thing about my design is that anyone can make it with what is laying around in the garage (assuming you have a piece of aluminium and a threaded rod).

If you want to take evolution even further I used this silicone hose => http://www.bjprace.s...&product_id=369

I cut a little bit to much for that perfect fit but still looks good.

 

Thought I wouldn't put the mats in until after MOT just to be sure I don't forget

[Jocke_D]

Have been doing a bit more work now. Mostly removing/cleaning/putting back the battery.

Thought I'd do some basic logging (and having Peter look at the loggs) before the clam goes back on.

So went out yesterday to take a slow, short, drive around the block but then the car wouldn't start. The fuel pump relay just clicked like crazy. Thought it sounded like a low voltage battery but knew I had had in on a ctek just the night before. To make a long story short I hooked up another battery with jumper cables and that worked fine. Ok, just replace the battery then... But measured a healthy 13V on it on the floor. Noticed some kind of black gunk on the connectors so out with the dremmel to clean everything up properly. In with the battery again and this time no problem at all

 

So now I could do a simple logg and almost everything look ok to me but the inlet temp seem a bit off. Any ideas where to start looking/measuring?

-Started the car cold, two "blips" on the throttle -

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Was your charge cooler running

[techieboy]

Wiring fault with the TMAP sensor or incorrect TMAP sensor, I'd guess.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Or wrong sensor selected Wired wrong

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 06 June 2016 - 12:30 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Becarful of that as obdtuner may start adding fuel and pulling ignition

[Jocke_D]

You guys are amazing. Incredibly fast and with good pointers

 

Started measuring some basic stuff and found that I had f*d up IAT ground and IAT signal. Switched them and everything seem fine now (?)

 

Think I'm ready to get the rear clam back on now

[Bargi]

Wiring fault with the TMAP sensor or incorrect TMAP sensor, I'd guess.

I thought different in tmaps would just be pressure range. Is it different temp range as well?

[Jocke_D]

 

Wiring fault with the TMAP sensor or incorrect TMAP sensor, I'd guess.

I thought different in tmaps would just be pressure range. Is it different temp range as well?

 

 

 

I'm guessing that techie meant I had a completely different sensor, not just the 2.5 / 3.0 bar versions. I chose a 3.0 bar sensor from a Saab 2.2Tid instead of the normal ones. It is probalby the same but couldn't confirm it since it had no markings, other than it was a 3.0 bar sensor.

 

 

For those that are thinking about doing this conversion ths might explain a bit.

The TMAP sensor is actually a combination of two existing sensors from when the car is NA.

The MAP part has three wires (ground, 5V supply and signal) and the temp part has two (signal and ground). My TMAP sensor had four wires (ground, temp signal, pressure signal and supply) which means I had to combine the two ground wires. What I did was I mixed up the temp sensors signal and ground. This meant that the MAP part worked but the temp part was way off.

[Jocke_D]

Yesterday I finished the installation. I hope. Unless any of you can think of anything that needs fixing.

 

Yesterdays work was mounting the EVAP valve somewhere and find some place to mount the crank ventilation tank and route a hose to it.

 

This is what I came up with. Seem ok to you guys?

Red is how I routed the EVAP hose and blue is crank vent.

 

 

Would more crank vent be a good thing. If so, how to do it?

All the gas recirculation stuff. What could be bad with getting rid of it all. It is a real pita to have all those hoses and tanks taking up space....

Edited by Jocke_D, 10 June 2016 - 01:55 PM.

[smiley]

The filter on your catch tank is a bit of a catch22.

 

Because it's not vacuum, most people will have higher oil consumption.

But if you put it back in the inlet to create vacuum, you would need to empty catch tank regularly, and regularly check for oil residu in the exit pipe, as once it's in your system it can clog up the laminova's.

 

 

[Jocke_D]

The filter on your catch tank is a bit of a catch22.

 

Because it's not vacuum, most people will have higher oil consumption.

But if you put it back in the inlet to create vacuum, you would need to empty catch tank regularly, and regularly check for oil residu in the exit pipe, as once it's in your system it can clog up the laminova's.

 

 

 

I'll take higher consumption over clogged laminovas any day

 

 

 

 

Got a couple of hours in yesterday. It is so close now I can taste it (please dont look at all the dirt that is on the car)

Left is arches (wheels), back liner in the cabin, seats (after a proper floor clean) and the underneath panels. And of course the stuff i have forgotten.

[Jocke_D]

Long time no see in this thread...

 

Quick summary so far. Car is running great, I think. Will get back to that later.

 

Was time for MOT soon after I finished the build so I had a quick check what could go wrong.

Found that my front pads wouldn't make the upcoming TD at my local track Gälleråsen and one of the positioning lights (LED) was dead. Ordered a set of Mintex 1155 from CMS that was delivered really fast. Forgot the LED and went to MOT. Obviously they found the light was out but also I had a high Lambda reading. 

 

Next was the TD at Gälleråsen. Joined up in the pit with Tonie and was really eager to test the new SC car.

New track with a kind of new car was interesting. Thought the car was down on power but that was kind of expected due to that I shared the car with my wife so it never got a chance to cool down. Had about the same top speed as Tonie (better driver, better set up car, some tuning) which was somewhat disappointing. But on my third outing there was some serious power. Had some 20kph higher top speed and ran into the limiter in places I hadn’t before. Also had some sliding out of corners with the same amount of throttle as before. Any ideas why?

Now I've bought a new Win 10 tablet so I can make some logs and try to find out what was (is) wrong.

The main thing with this day was the new pads. Thought a couple of times that the pedal went down and started to brake rather early to "fix" that. After three stints I took a better look and found that the right outer pad was all worn down

Went home really slow and found that two pads looked fine, one totally worn down and one with a crater like hole in the middle. This was after six stints from new (three by the wife who doesn’t use the brakes that much). Has anyone experienced something similar???

Looked long and hard at the calipers but they seem fine. Easy to push the pistons in with just finger force and they move as expected when applying pressure on the pedal. The old worn pads (also some mintex) went back on.

 

Next was trying to fix the lambda. Found after some investigating that my exhaust had come loose in the last joint before the muffler. So changed the LED and secured the joint a bit better. No problem this time at MOT. The plan for winter is now to build a new exhaust, manifold and all.

What size should I make it? Is 2" is to small and 3" overkill? I'd like to build a system that will be enough for a little over 300hp or whatever my M62 is able to produce.

 

After that I ordered a set of CL RC5+ and decided to upgrade my discs in the process. Ordered the 308mm EBC Ultimax from VX220Parts together with longer bolts and their spacers. Shipment was really fast but I got a bit disappointed when I opened the package and found two left (as I see it) discs. Also one had the black surface down in the grooves and one didn't. This one also seem to have been machined after the black surface was applied because the grooves was a slight bit larger. Never mind that I thought, they will work just as well but still annoying when buying new stuff. Then I got more irritated when I found that the spacers were too small. They are 10mm which should work fine in theory ((308-288)/2) but the larger diameter of the disc mean that they need to be some 11.5mm (which is what I shimmed them out to and then looked ok) to clear the caliper. How can VX220parts make and deliver stuff that obviously doesn't work?

Also I put the new HEL braided hoses in together with some new RBF600 fluid.

 

This brings us up to today. I’ve driven the car to work and trying to bed the new discs and pads in. Will try to do some logging before the next planned TD which is September 11.

[D-DAWG83]

Could be that the pads are getting stuck, and not moving freely. Got a similar issue with my rears at the moment, and after a quick Dremel, seem to be working better. Could be the build up of dust and debris is stopping the pad moving away from the disk.

[Jocke_D]

Made a logg yesterday and found that my injectors is a bit small.

 

I now have the "Green LSJ 410cc injectors" and would like to get my hands on a set of "Bosch 0 280 156 280" as they are the next size in Peters list.

Does anyone know what cars/engines they can be found in?

I think I know they are in the Astra OPC (VXR) with Z20LET but surely they have to be in others as well. For instance, is the Z20LET the same as a B207R injectorvice and I could go look for some smashed Saab Aeros?

 

Or better yet, does anyone have a set and willing to sell?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Yeah your lucky if you get 6500 rpm on the lsj injectors with standard pulley Get the blue Vxr injectors they should see you better If your car has forged internals ie more than stage 2 you need to start looking at Siemens 630