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Headlight And Rear Light Reseal- Don't Use Tiger Seal?


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#1 NDT

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 02:33 PM

I remember reading that people are having good results with the EliseParts butyl tape.

I bought some Tiger seal to do the job a while ago - is this not up to the job then?

 

Nick



#2 NDT

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 02:44 PM

Search is my friend....

Is the latest view to stick in situ with double sided tape then use Tiger seal to seal?



#3 fezzasus

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 03:46 PM

Use the Elise Parts butyl tape.

 

Double sided tape shouldn't be used as it's not waterproof, neither should tiger seal - it makes the plastic brittle.


Edited by fezzasus, 13 January 2016 - 03:46 PM.


#4 FLD

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 07:03 PM

I tigersealed mine 7 years ago and they're fine. A little care was all I have them. I suspect clamping the lenses while the glue cures is a bad idea as it can cause stress cracks to form. I just left mine.

#5 Aerodynamic

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:29 PM

How do I split them first?

#6 redvts

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:43 PM

http://www.vx220.org...e/?fromsearch=1 Read this..

#7 Singingwolf

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 06:37 AM

My personal experience! I bought Tiger seal in uk to seal my headlight .... Result .. 6 months than they are again open to rain. Use a normal glue silicon type.

Edited by Singingwolf, 14 January 2016 - 06:39 AM.


#8 jonnyboy

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 09:06 AM

Silicone wont bond to the ABS.

 

Tiger seal shjould be OK if the surfaces are correctly prepped. Try CT one power grab and bond. Feckers will never come off with that stuff.



#9 Singingwolf

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 07:32 PM

Silicone wont bond to the ABS.   Tiger seal shjould be OK if the surfaces are correctly prepped. Try CT one power grab and bond. Feckers will never come off with that stuff.

With silicon type I mean the same format ... I used "bostik Poly Max crystal" l apologize for misleading informations.....

Edited by Singingwolf, 14 January 2016 - 07:33 PM.


#10 Rudy

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 08:22 PM

Initially did the fronts with tiger seal and clamping, mixed results. Then used the tape and tiger seal method. Use both for best results imho. Butyl tape to fix the lenses in place and provide a decent seal, and then the Tiger seal around the whole edge to make it 100% watertight. Did mine again ages ago and never had a prob since. Just make sure you mark up the lenses relative to the lights otherwise they prob won't fit back in the clam properly.

#11 mark_vx

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 08:33 PM

I did my rear light with sikaflex. Left for a day and then replaced. However next day started to come away again. (It was a hot day though and I drove the next day). Sealed again and left clamped for 3 days. That was probably 2 years ago - been fine ever since.

 

Reading on here though more and more people seem to be recommending the butyl tape.



#12 FLD

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 05:53 PM

For PU type adhesives you need to use a PU primer. Without that the bond is sh*t hence people have them coming back off. Clamping the lens during cure will cause it to be flexed so at full cure the lens is flexed where the clamps were resulting in stress cracks. If you must clamp them use a load spreader.

#13 siztenboots

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 12:27 PM

having trouble cleaning off the original sealant used on the rear light to cover , tricky getting temperature just right, 130-140'C , but then I noticed the reflector plastic was melting a bit :(

 

its a pain to get the surface really back to clean prep






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