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Car Not Starting After Long Stand-Still


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#1 ttpa

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 02:55 PM

Hi everybody.

 

I have an annoying issue that I got after having the car sleep over the winter.

When I now, happy with the spring coming and all, tryied to start the car, it didn't.

 

The issue is that there are no fuelpressure, and this is due to the ECU not firing the fuelpump.

I have checked the fuelpump, which works fine.

The relay and connectors have been refreshed and are fine.

the FCO are reset and works as it should.

There are power to the K18 fuel relay

If I short the relay, the fuelpump starts.

There are 12v on the relay coil.

No error codes found on the ODBII

 

BUT there are no signal from the ECU to activate the relay.

The ECU does not prime the motor on startup, nor does it activate the pump when trying to start.

The starter cranks the engine without starting.

 

What condition has to be met for the ECU to prime/fuel the engine?

What to check for?

 

Please help! I want to take the little tubby for a spin....

 

Btw - its a Z20LET (Turbo) from 2003.

 

br

Patrik

 



#2 Zoobeef

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 03:12 PM

Possibly an immobiliser issue. Try your spare keys



#3 siztenboots

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 03:13 PM

or an ECU earthing fault



#4 ttpa

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 05:37 PM

Hi again.

 

Tried to shorten the relay for the fuelpump, and then tried to start the car, but still nothing.

I do have fuelpressure.

I checked the grounding on the ECU and it seems fine (no resistance to ground)

The EML is on (forgot to mention that before)

 

I do not have a spare key, so I can not test that. Is there any other way to tell if it is the immobiliser?

 

P.



#5 techieboy

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 06:24 PM

 Is there any other way to tell if it is the immobiliser?

 

 

Read the fault code.



#6 leevx2.2

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 07:17 PM

pull fuse 8 for 15 mins try to start it if it fires then stops its a imopiliser problem and i would start with your transponder around your ignition barrel .i have a new one in the garage i might sell brand new from Vauxhall they are £80-100 i think 



#7 ttpa

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 08:18 PM

I do not get any fault code. Tried to use odb-doctor and Torque but none find any error-codes.

I also reset the ECU by the fuse 8 (and also fuse 20 to be sure...) but the car does not start anyhow.

The can does not start at all - the starter cranks the motor, but the ECU does not want to prime on startup. 

But it does not fire even if I short the relay for the fuelpump.

 

 



#8 Zoobeef

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 08:41 PM

Is there fuel in the fuel rail?

 



#9 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 09:09 PM

Crank sensor ?

#10 The Baron

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 10:39 PM

Had a similar sounding problem a couple of months ago. Solved by mobile auto mechanic reprogramming ecu/key transponder to talk to each other again. Just need to finish suspension refresh and get back out on the road!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#11 leevx2.2

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 05:26 AM

pull fuse 8 for 15 mins try to start it if it fires then stops its a imopiliser problem and i would start with your transponder around your ignition barrel .i have a new one in the garage i might sell brand new from Vauxhall they are £80-100 i think 

i still think its an immobiliser problem are you shore when you pulled fuse 8 that on very first start it doesn't try to fire ?it won't start but on first turn it will go to fire ?



#12 ttpa

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 05:56 AM

I have retested the setup a number of times more, and tried to see if there are any notion of life in the motor at first start after reset, but there are nothing.

Not even if I override the fuelpump-relay, I does not even get a fire.

There are fuelpressure.

The yellow EML (I think it is) motor light in the lower right corner is lit.

So is the battery and the motor-oil.

 

I probably have to tow it to someone with an Op-com, but hate giving up....

 



#13 Exmantaa

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 07:45 AM

If all your relays and connections work ok, then it can be that the ecu does not see the crankshaft turnoing and so does not actuate the injectors and coils on cranking...

 

On Ignition On only; does your fuelpump start for a few seconds to pressurize the system and do you hear the throttlebody opening and closing?



#14 Mani

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 07:39 AM

try getting your key coded to the immobiliser again. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

#15 ttpa

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 09:34 AM

The fuelpump does NOT start at all, not at startup, not at start-attempt.

The only way to get the fuel is to shorten the relay, but still does not start.

 

This is why I think that it is something else than the cranksensor or immobilizer as there are no life no matter the position of the crank, nor does the car prime the fuel or fire at all even after reset the ECU.

Seems to be something else preventig the ECU from even preparing to start (i.e. priming etc)

 



#16 Wolfstone

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 06:52 PM

Loom of doom. Check connectors and wires at the large connectors behind the header tank. I had a similar issue and turned out to be a corroded worse in that area.

#17 ttpa

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 06:18 AM

Checked and refreshed all the connectors I could find in the Loom of doom - hardly any corrosion found..

Checked the throttle body position, and seems to work fine.

 

Anyone know the exact (electrical) conditions for the ECU to prepare and start the engine? - i.e. signals that should be active, that should be inactive etc?

 

 



#18 Wolfstone

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 07:36 AM

Zoobeef is your man. He diagnosed my non-starting issue using wiring diagrams.

#19 ttpa

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 10:42 AM

Hi All.

The saga continues....

I had the car in to Vauxhall/Opel service to check the immobilizer and error codes, and it turns out NOT to be the immobilizer. 

They also checked for errorcodes, and it seems that the IAT sensor might report the wrong value, and occasionally, the crank position sensor might report an error.

I have now towed the car back home again as they charge me over 100euro/hour - I have borrowed an Op-com from a Opel enthusiast to check for error codes etc.

 

I will check the IAT and the Crank position sensor, but does anyone know the correct values and how to check the sensors?

The IAT is a thermal resistor, and it shows about 500k at 20 degrees C - Is this correct?

Any ideas on how to check the CPS (I guess there are threads on this....)

 

P.

 



#20 ayresyy

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 01:27 PM

 If it's not getting a consistent signal from the crank sensor this could cause a non-start. Ideally you need access to Op-Com to view the live data from the sensor while cranking.  






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