513 replies to this topic

[Crabash]

Nev, it would be a massive pain, 1st I would want them low all the time I want it, i.e. when I turn it on. 2nd if you tune for it then your tune would be wrong half the time. Not to mention the fact that the water turning on would then turn itself off. There are already adjustment on the controller to alter activation points and ramp angles.

[Crabash]

I think given current power levels on well done harrop 1320 with 50/50, 420bhp should be achievable without too much fuss. Extreme tuning may require a step up in jet size purely to get the overall octane up. Jets I specced for people unsure about running water or 50/50 are a half way house that will work for both.

[Crabash]

For those who do want to try more with 50/50, thats where the 3rd nozzle comes in, you don't need the extra cooling just the octane lift, so you can slot a bigger jet in the pre SC location which saves taking maniflod off again, poss have to use bigger restrictor in FAV.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I claim nothing.. I posted my power run.. The temps said circa 35c..

Chris i cant find this 

 

can you repost ??

[chris_uk]

its somewhere in the dutch software thread. 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

its somewhere in the dutch software thread. 

do you have any idea of the date 

as thats quite a big thread 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I am using the snowperformance stage 2 kit from 2013 on my harrop'ed 2.0. I am using ethanol instead of methanol, mixed 60:40 water:ethanol.

Ethanol is much cheaper, not as toxic as meth and meth is very hard to get in Germany.

 

I did lots af thinking about the correct position for the nozzle. The spray pattern is a triangle.

This can be seen here:

At first i thought about injecting from the underside of the manifold like shown here:

 

But i was not sure if it can mix good enough in this short way to the head that every cylinder gets the same amount of water/ethanol mixture...

Did some searching in the US Ecotec Forums and nobody was injecting after the Laminovas because of this reason.

 

I decided to spray before the laminovas. You can see it in this video:

(I added a stop-valve when installing it in the car to prevent the dripping)

 

My installation is controlled by a air-flow-meter that i put between airfilter and throttle body. It gives a 0-5V signal that can be used for controlling the amount of injected water.

I programmed it that it starts to inject with 15% when the air-flow is on a level that equals WOT at 4000rpm.

It injects 100% at WOT and my rev-limiter which is set to 7700rpm.

Have to say that - if doing it again - i would by the stage 3 version that can use the fuel-injector signal for reference. Much easier to program and map it. But there is no need for the air-flow-meter as soon as OBD-pro is released.

 

The system works great for me and I do not know any other solution to get serious power out of the LSJ-Manifold ;-)

It gained me 35-40 degrees IAT and I am able to run around 25 degrees timing at 265kpa.

 

 

 

 

cheers for that thats some good infomation shared this is the kind of thing im after  in the thread 

[NickB787]

What about doing it through the Tmap sensor?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

do you mean the one on the sc itself nick 

 

the one on the manifold is far to close to inlet of engine to get a good spread 

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 02 July 2016 - 02:46 PM.

[NickB787]

Was thinking manifold, I wired in an extra signal wire just in case was thinking of using the map 0-5v signal.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

as mentioned earlier in the thread nick amost all the other crap, map pressure is not the best way to control the water injection as there is not a great deal of difference in the rates on a SC car 

 

i am  planning on using injector pulse rate and inlet temps to control it short term and longer term will be using a lot more information and ecu controlled but this wont be straight away 

[Exmantaa]

Injector pulse rate should be a good signal for your water injection amount.

(Can we forget about the boost/MAP triggered systems? That works crap for our SC installs as Chris explained.)

 

Also injecting before the laminova cores will nog give the best results. All the fine mist you're so hard trying to create will condense and puddle on the tiny laminova gaps and then evaporate again when the boost pressure gets lower. (=when you don't need it anymore)

It will also make the laminova's working less, as you're pre-cooling the charge and there is less temperature difference over the cores/chargecooling.

 

So best; inject WI after the cores, leaving the laminova's to work as hard as possible.

But placement needs some thought, as you want even cylinder cooling and the airspeeds there will shape that fine watermist cone fairly different...

Take care that you need a device (shut-off valve or pressure valve) then to prevent the engine vacuum on low loads sucking the water in...

(Best option is to have a system with constant full line pressure and a (pwm) operated valve close to the nozzles. also good for atomization.)

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

there available from aquamist 

[Exmantaa]

I know; their Fast Acting Valve. Need to find me one and already have 2 of their old-syle, but very compact, race-pumps lying here.

 

[NickB787]

Sorry guys scanned the thread and missed the map bit

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

 

its somewhere in the dutch software thread. 

do you have any idea of the date 

as thats quite a big thread 

 

 

found it 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Sorry guys scanned the thread and missed the map bit

its ok nick the thread went to pot for a while hoping for some better information now 

[Crabash]

Better info!!!

You are at it again chill, nothing here I didn't say ages ago, Mr "you are doing it wrong, bigger charge cooler is better".

You were happy enough to play nice when you wanted my help!

 

 

 

Edited by Crabash, 02 July 2016 - 06:46 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Better info!!!

You are at it again chill, nothing here I didn't say ages ago, Mr "you are doing it wrong, bigger charge cooler is better".

You were happy enough to play nice when you wanted my help!

 

 

 

 

What am i doing steve 

nick made a comment i am responding 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

If you dont want to put any relevant information on here then say nothing 

 

you have made it clear and i will repeat things for you 

 

crabash has done a install before and got good results from it on a st 2 sc conversion with a sh*t rad in ear 

works great the data is here to show 

 

if you pm crabash he will tell you its more complicated than what it is 

he will then try and make some money from you because its so complicated