513 replies to this topic

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I will use my current map as a failsafe and start to add ignition on my water injection map maybe even start playing with the AFR on the water injection map also

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

As you can see im getting a slight blip in to the failsafe map at high RPM 

 

 

will have a look at this also this afternoon

[Exmantaa]

What parameter is the spinkes/dips in the top graph?

Am I right you're playing in a test version of OBD-PRO, as I see you have an EGR pwm output signal (for WI control)? 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

its what map the car is currently using 1 normal safe map and 2 the map im slowly building for the water injection (which will end up being leaner more ignition and probably reducing the signal from the ecu to the aquamist from 100% to around 80 % at various loads and pressures 

[Exmantaa]

its what map the car is currently using 1 normal safe map and 2 the map im slowly building for the water injection (which will end up being leaner more ignition and probably reducing the signal from the ecu to the aquamist from 100% to around 80 % at various loads and pressures 

 

Ah ok, it's an indicator value where OBD switches from the 2.0 map to the failsafe 1.0 mapping.And when does it fall back to the failsafe map?

 

(Is a "map" simply a 2nd complete copy off all OBD maps, so including everything? Or only a few maps duplicated?)

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

There is a lot more in pro 

you basically have a general tab which is everything about the car (hard ware which cant be changed between maps )

 

then two side calibrations (maps) which allow you to make all the changes you  want individually on each of the maps 

 

im still finding my feet with it all but i do have the same map as before i put the pro on as map 1 (calibration)

and my second map started off as my map 1 with all the extra tabs around the water injection, 

 

at this moment in time the water has created knock retard on a similar map even with a degree more ignition in there might have to add even more yet as its been indicated that i may need as much as a further 5 degree of ignition to get the map as smooth and usable as before (its also obviously is slower and not as keen with the water injection switched on so this is really the first thing i want to get right ) the car also feel significant slower.

 

 

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 28 September 2016 - 01:09 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

if anyone can bring anything new about fine tuning the water injection it would be appreciated

 

[Exmantaa]

Would be interesting to see a powerrun graph with and without WI.

(just to see current state and how much the WI slows down the cilinder burn. I assume you use about 15% water vs fuel, as that is an often recommended ampount?)

Edited by Exmantaa, 28 September 2016 - 01:36 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Would be interesting to see a powerrun graph with and without WI.

(just to see current state and how much the WI slows down the cilinder burn. I assume you use about 15% water vs fuel, as that is an often recommended ampount?)

 

probably a bit lower tbh more like 10-12% when on full chat 

 

this is the power run with and without water injection 

but the water injection map has a further 1.5 degrees of ignition 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

what is apparnt the inlet temps are not recovering quick enough for the power runs after a sit in lay by

 

i havent got a lot of data around power at the moment its all been around setup and logs 

i am very early in to using this 

 

the ecu only went on 2 weeks ago and even then the aquamist was only working on the screen 

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 28 September 2016 - 02:32 PM.

[chris_uk]

Whats with the jump at 6k?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

it could be something in the road Chris not sure but it is consistency there ( i start the runs in exactly the same place )

 

well im still at it and finding quite hard to find consistency around the water injection 

i still have more knock with the water than my old map without water also my old map feels so much better and is producing more power (& heat )

 

 

 

i may be really underestimating how much of  a slow burn the water is producing and may need even more ignition in there, has anyone else had any expirience with how much ignition they have added to get the water injection to burn correctly ??

[Kieran McC]

Chris  does the system you have not work better as a water meths setup ?

[Kieran McC]

Chris  does the system you have not work better as a water meths setup ?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Chris  does the system you have not work better as a water meths setup ?

I'm really not interested in meth Kieren it will produce more power which I don't want I think this might just me being very cautious around the water I will study my logs tonight and try some more ignition and see if the knock comes down maybe even lean the mixture off a bit more But my temps are megger low

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 29 September 2016 - 04:09 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

here is a bit more from the inlet temps

 

 

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 29 September 2016 - 06:04 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

[chris_uk]

So even after wi your still only getting 50c intakes?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

So even after wi your still only getting 50c intakes?

 

when the car is on load which is hard to keep on load on the road the temps quickly drop below 40 

the real test will be on track on Tuesday 

water injection is setup only to kick in and 30 od% duty cycle 

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 29 September 2016 - 07:10 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

here is a bit more from the inlet temps

 

 

 

Chris if your looking at this second pic this is the none water injection map