96 replies to this topic

[smiley]

Too easy......

[fiveoclock]

 

 

 

 

If you track the car, it is advised to add a breather, so hot air can escape.

 

Somebody thought it would be a good idea to add a breather to my inner boots before I raced at Rockingham by way of a short section of plastic straw from a WD40 can. Had to take them out after quali and clean up all the grease that had come out, And yes the clips were tight and yes we used the best grease.

 

 

Sorry to hear that. We have been using it plenty for a few years now, but i take it you do more track miles. Don't you go through masses of cv's without the breather?

 

We get through quite a few boots but we keep an eye on them so they never run dry/dryish, As I said any sign of a boot deformity we just shove another shaft on it that we always have ready

[fiveoclock]

 

 

That's good information, the guide says you need to remove the wishbone ball joints to do the work but later someone else says you can get away with removing only the toe link. Don't really want to go removing the ball joints. To be honest I don't understand most of it as I don't know what's some of stuff means so I may get a garage.  

You dont need to remove the ball joints, you can drop the toe link and hinge the hub out of the way. Jack it right up and you lose hardly if any trans fluid. Getting the driveshaft out isnt the hard part, we have spare driveshafts and if a boot goes we can swap a driveshaft in 15 minutes.

 

So do you Jack it up, take the wheel off, leave the brake caliper on, drop the toe link leaving the outer cv and drive shaft in place, remove the drive shaft from the gear box with the CV joint connected or can you remove the drive shaft leaving the CV joint in?

 

Yes, crack the nut off before you jack it up. We just pull the whole shaft out and put another one in that we always have ready then refurb the old shaft.

[fiveoclock]

Wow, that's really helpful thanks, I take to you put the CV grease on the balls?

Lots of grease on everything to hold it all together. When you see those photos with all the seperate parts it looks daunting, as though everything falls apart as you try to put it together but use plenty of grease and it doesnt. Its the sort of job that when youve done one you'll do the next one in half the time. When you take the shaft out of the diff check the condition of the snap ring that holds it in the diff. It should have a round profile, if its been in and out a few times in the past it can have a flattened outer edge. If it has this the shaft can pop out when being used hard.

[slindborg]

Wow, that's really helpful thanks, I take to you put the CV grease on the balls?

You really have never done this before? It's such a messy job, you will have fun doing it

Based on many posts, I'd say leave it the fcuk alone. Pay someone to fit it, otherwise you're only gonna fcuk it up

[gaffer1986]

Thanks for all the posts, they are very helpful and much appreciated

[gaffer1986]

cvjoin3 by Richard Fanders, on Flickr

 

So you can take the inner side of the axle shaft out of the CV joint housing along with the cage, race and balls whilst leaving the housing connected to the diff/gearbox?

 

Also, doesn't sound like there would be enough room to pull the drive shaft back that far with the hub upright still connected to the wishbone and only the toe link disconnected? Just checking I understand that I only need to take the wheel off and disconnect the outer toe link to get enough movement to pull the driveshaft out?

 

cv_joint by Richard Fanders, on Flickr

Edited by gaffer1986, 28 July 2016 - 10:42 AM.

[smiley]

No, regardless if you want to take out the full shaft, or the big part, you will still have to:

 

- Use a breaker bar to get the central wheelnut off. (need good quality tool and force to get to 220nm) - Remove brake disk and caliper, disconnect handbrake cable and undo the track rod.

- Decide which second nut comes undone, so the whole construction can be tilted in such a way, that the shaft can come out.

- Decide full shaft out, or part. (depends if you have small fingers to operate on it like the angry man, or cba, and yank out the full thing.)

 

( i could be corrected on the part shaft method, as i never used that)   

Edited by smiley, 28 July 2016 - 11:42 AM.

[smiley]

 

So you can take the inner side of the axle shaft out of the CV joint housing along with the cage, race and balls whilst leaving the housing connected to the diff/gearbox?

 

 

Indeed.

 

 

Edited by smiley, 28 July 2016 - 11:35 AM.

[james_ly]

Also, doesn't sound like there would be enough room to pull the drive shaft back that far with the hub upright still connected to the wishbone and only the toe link disconnected? Just checking I understand that I only need to take the wheel off and disconnect the outer toe link to get enough movement to pull the driveshaft out?

 

Nope, you need to split the lower balljoint as well. I tried without and it isn't quite far enough. Balljoint off and the hub swivels on the upper joint enough to pull the CV joint apart while keeping the end in the gearbox.  

[gaffer1986]

No, regardless if you want to take out the full shaft, or the big part, you will still have to:   - Use a breaker bar to get the central wheelnut off. (need good quality tool and force to get to 220nm) - Remove brake disk and caliper, disconnect handbrake cable and undo the track rod. - Decide which second nut comes undone, so the whole construction can be tilted in such a way, that the shaft can come out. - Decide full shaft out, or part. (depends if you have small fingers to operate on it like the angry man, or cba, and yank out the full thing.)   ( i could be corrected on the part shaft method, as i never used that)   

Thanks smiley, if I do it I'm hoping not to have to remove the castle nut and bendy pin thing. I'm assuming if I too both ball joints off the upright I could pull the whole thing out with outer drive shaft still connected?

[gaffer1986]

Also, doesn't sound like there would be enough room to pull the drive shaft back that far with the hub upright still connected to the wishbone and only the toe link disconnected? Just checking I understand that I only need to take the wheel off and disconnect the outer toe link to get enough movement to pull the driveshaft out?

  Nope, you need to split the lower balljoint as well. I tried without and it isn't quite far enough. Balljoint off and the hub swivels on the upper joint enough to pull the CV joint apart while keeping the end in the gearbox.  

Did you have do undo the castle nut or did you do it with the drive shaft connected to the hub?

[gaffer1986]

That's good information, the guide says you need to remove the wishbone ball joints to do the work but later someone else says you can get away with removing only the toe link. Don't really want to go removing the ball joints. To be honest I don't understand most of it as I don't know what's some of stuff means so I may get a garage.

You dont need to remove the ball joints, you can drop the toe link and hinge the hub out of the way. Jack it right up and you lose hardly if any trans fluid. Getting the driveshaft out isnt the hard part, we have spare driveshafts and if a boot goes we can swap a driveshaft in 15 minutes.

Do you do this with the drive shaft still connected to the hub and just swivel the whole assembly to one side leaving the inner cv case connected to the diff/gearbox?

[smiley]

 

No, regardless if you want to take out the full shaft, or the big part, you will still have to:   - Use a breaker bar to get the central wheelnut off. (need good quality tool and force to get to 220nm) - Remove brake disk and caliper, disconnect handbrake cable and undo the track rod. - Decide which second nut comes undone, so the whole construction can be tilted in such a way, that the shaft can come out. - Decide full shaft out, or part. (depends if you have small fingers to operate on it like the angry man, or cba, and yank out the full thing.)   ( i could be corrected on the part shaft method, as i never used that)   

Thanks smiley, if I do it I'm hoping not to have to remove the castle nut and bendy pin thing. I'm assuming if I too both ball joints off the upright I could pull the whole thing out with outer drive shaft still connected?

 

 

That castle nut is the nut holding your driveshaft into your hub. So yes, it has to come loose. (I referred to that as the central nut, the one that needs 220nm to get back on. Which is a lot)

I could be wrong though, and the part shaft trick may also leave enough room for just the gearbox part.

 

From your posting i can see you're trying to find a shortcut.

I would suggest to give it a try on how you want it, learn from it, then move over to plan B, C etc untill you are where you want to be.

 

Would suggest to reserve quite some time for this. 

Edited by smiley, 28 July 2016 - 02:52 PM.

[gaffer1986]

I don't really want to find a short cut, I don't mind taking a bit of time but would rather not remove the castle nut because I'm not sure if it will come loose with my breaker bar and I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 220nm. I already have two torque wrenches, never seen one that high in the shops.

[james_ly]

 

 

Also, doesn't sound like there would be enough room to pull the drive shaft back that far with the hub upright still connected to the wishbone and only the toe link disconnected? Just checking I understand that I only need to take the wheel off and disconnect the outer toe link to get enough movement to pull the driveshaft out?  

  Nope, you need to split the lower balljoint as well. I tried without and it isn't quite far enough. Balljoint off and the hub swivels on the upper joint enough to pull the CV joint apart while keeping the end in the gearbox.  

 

Did you have do undo the castle nut or did you do it with the drive shaft connected to the hub?

 

 

Nope, leave the driveshaft connected to the hub. It's all in slindborg's guide which is correct.

 

Probably quicker to take the whole shaft out put like you I don't fancy undoing the castle nut and retorquing etc.  

[gaffer1986]

I'll look for Lindborg's guide. Just realised it was slindborg's guide I've been looking at the whole time. Makes more sense now I know more and some of the terminologies.

Edited by gaffer1986, 28 July 2016 - 03:14 PM.

[Stevie Dubyah]

This thread has pretty much 3x as many posts as the actual "How to guide"

 

[gaffer1986]

This thread has pretty much 3x as many posts as the actual "How to guide"

 

 

I'll put a link to this thread in the guide when I'm done as I think the information here is helpful to someone with little knowledge.

 

 

 

 

The only part of the guide I don't understand now is this bit:

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]"Do the CV clips up firm/tightly.[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Slotted strap method.[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Get as much tension on the strap as possible, even use the old large spring clip to wiggle through the 'teeth' into the next set of holes and lever along. use side cutters or preferably nail pincers crimp up the small part of the strap thats raised. (even better use the right tool [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;][/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;])"[/color]

 

Is slindborg referring to the CV Boot clips or are there more clips on the CV joint itself?

[gaffer1986]

Is this what he is talking about?