Geo And Castor
#21
Posted 31 August 2016 - 03:21 PM
#22
Posted 31 August 2016 - 04:03 PM
According to the TIS, the NA had 3.8 deg castor as standard but the Turbo had only 2.5 deg. Maybe because the Turbo was more comfort oriented?
Edited by harboged, 31 August 2016 - 04:04 PM.
#23
Posted 31 August 2016 - 05:58 PM
Some more comparison options.
#24
Posted 31 August 2016 - 06:20 PM
#25
Posted 31 August 2016 - 06:37 PM
I assume you went from 2-2 to a 3-1 shim distribution? (as you normally need minimal 1 rubberised shim at the uper "front-rear" position...)
Is 2-2 (presume 2 in front / 2 in rear) the standard setting?
Alternatively, I presume increasing the castor mean = 1 (in front) 3 (in rear)?
3 in front and 1 rear will increase the caster. You need to move the upper wishbone rearwards.
#26
Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:29 PM
#27
Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:50 PM
Same same, english american etcLet's settle the most important issue here, is it caster or castor?
#28
Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:52 PM
One of the washers should be a "snubber" washer which has a rubber coating on one side. The rear one on the front part of the arm with the rubber side facing the wishbone.
Edited by Zoobeef, 31 August 2016 - 08:53 PM.
#29
Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:53 PM
If you have no snubber, it will knock when you accelerate or brake hard as the wishbone is torsioned. If you only have 3 check your box section hasn't been bent in slightly.It appears that i only have 3 fwd, and none rear. I guess that maybe the source of my knock/rattle
#30
Posted 31 August 2016 - 09:03 PM
Edited by Chris P Duck, 31 August 2016 - 09:03 PM.
#31
Posted 31 August 2016 - 09:06 PM
Correct.
#32
Posted 31 August 2016 - 09:09 PM
Ideally you want to see what your caster is before, and see how the shims are set either side. And from that you can see if there's any strange tolerances in your chassis. I.e each side needs a different setup to get the same caster on each side.
There has been some found with different each side before.
#33
Posted 31 August 2016 - 09:16 PM
Or in my case it was different side to side but after I'd put it all back together with 3 and 1 both sides that was equal side to side.Ideally you want to see what your caster is before, and see how the shims are set either side. And from that you can see if there's any strange tolerances in your chassis. I.e each side needs a different setup to get the same caster on each side. There has been some found with different each side before.
#34
Posted 01 September 2016 - 11:58 AM
If I were you I'd stick with OEM settings Matt, lots of experience and talent went into setting the base car. As you drive it on the road, set it up for the road IMO (as per OEM settings).
Castor is the least influential day to day geo setting IMO. I didn't notice any change in my handling when I increased mine.
don't you only drive on the road as well?
telling him to stick to OEM settings and then saying you did something different is a bit contradictory
I run slightly different geometry to OEM as I have lots of non standard parts on my car, like different hub carriers, different wheels, substantially more tyre to take advantage of, more overall weight, different shocks, abnormal front/rear spring delta, different steering arms, more front axle loading, higher front ARB stiffness, much higher floating mass at the front etc etc.
His car is pretty standard I think, hence my advice is not contradictory, but different due to our vastly different parts & weights.
Anyway, my settings are pretty close to OEM, the only main difference is that I have 0.5 degrees of neg camber on my fronts with a bit more toe out and a bit more toe in on the rears.
considering you don't know the exact spec of his car, I think it is contradictory.
all vx's are different so all settings will be different.
your also assuming that he knows the spec of your car!
Edited by Andrew aka Stuwy, 01 September 2016 - 11:59 AM.
#35
Posted 01 September 2016 - 01:57 PM
Iv got Superpro bushes on mine, so dont need the snubber. However, i cant see any washer behind the bush on the upper wishbone. That maybe the annoying rattle/knock iv got. MBR set the car up at the start of the year,Going to investigate asap.If you have no snubber, it will knock when you accelerate or brake hard as the wishbone is torsioned. If you only have 3 check your box section hasn't been bent in slightly.It appears that i only have 3 fwd, and none rear. I guess that maybe the source of my knock/rattle
#36
Posted 28 December 2024 - 01:53 PM
New porsche gt3 rs 922 with double whisbone has 8°30min castor.
Alpine a110 with double whisbone has 7° castor.
I understand that lotus/ vx220 has only 4° castor because there in no power steering because big castor it is harder to turn the steering wheel ?
Edited by piwo, 28 December 2024 - 01:55 PM.
#37
Posted 30 December 2024 - 06:55 AM
You'd think Porsche owners wouldn't need power steering with all the arm excercises they do.
#38
Posted 31 December 2024 - 03:21 PM
You'd think Porsche owners wouldn't need power steering with all the arm excercises they do.
To be fair, they tend to be either the right or left arm, limited to a four inch articulation withiin a single plane, further limited by a ten second maximum time span.
#39
Posted 01 January 2025 - 08:15 AM
You'd think Porsche owners wouldn't need power steering with all the arm excercises they do.
To be fair, they tend to be either the right or left arm, limited to a four inch articulation withiin a single plane, further limited by a ten second maximum time span.
I think that's a gross over estimation. My guess - 2cm.
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