27 replies to this topic

[jhinchy]

I am in need of a new inner cv joint n/side. Is this shared with any other models? I've tried a search but couldn't find a conclusive answer. Mine is a 02 2.2. Part number is unique to the vx220 on vauxhalls epc, but perhaps there is a compatible joint that would be easily sourced?

[gaffer1986]

This one worked for me just fine.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

[gaffer1986]

Here is a guide

 

http://www.vx220.org...v-boot-replace/

[vocky]

from memory, only the astra gsi turbo (mark 4) short driveshaft inner CV

[KurtVerbose]

This one worked for me just fine.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

That's just the boot - he says he wants the joint.

[jhinchy]

from memory, only the astra gsi turbo (mark 4) short driveshaft inner CV

 

I looked up these on the parts catalogue, the inner LHS joint is shared with the 2.6 Vectra v6.  It will definitely match the gearbox side, as they are all f23, but will it slide onto the vx220 shaft is the next question.  An expensive gamble,

[jhinchy]

Just to add to the topic, the problem with my current joint is the splines have twisted.  What I thought was a leaking diff seal turned out to be a joint that had popped out of position.  The joint had popped about halfway out of the diff.  Probably 1 hard start from a standing stop was enough to strain the splines.  Ive got a quife diff, so hoping it didn't damage the splines in that.  I thought id be able to just push the joint back in but no joy, on further inspection I spotted the damage to the splines.

[gaffer1986]

This one worked for me just fine.   http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

  That's just the boot - he says he wants the joint.

Oops, I was rushing this morning.

[glitch]

But thanks for the link gaffer! Kia didn't have any stock for the boot and said minimum 4 weeks and opel quoted 120£ for the boot so I just ordered the one in your link

[KurtVerbose]

I had a cv joint go and I wasn't sure which one it was. Given the car is so old and rubber perishes I replaced the whole driveshaft. It wasn't cheap but it was easy to replace and now I have one with a good few years of life left in it.

 

[jhinchy]

I have ordered a full shaft from Liz.  She only had the RH in stock, so I will swap the joints onto my own shaft.  Great value at £80 for a complete shaft.  She only has one left now though.

[swast4]

Hi,
My Inner CV boot split recently at the beginning of a track day, it's the inner NS boot that split,, which is a common prob.

I've ordered a new polyurethane boot and some high temp Zx1 grease and will look to replace it next week.

My question is, will my joint be knackered? Should I replace it anyway as a precaution as its been run on track with a split boot. What can I look for, when I strip it for signs of wear?

Also when I've searched, I came across a complete drive shaft for a very good price, has anyone used them?



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[larres]

This one will fit too.
https://www.jandrcvj...ive-shaft/DS319
Only the thread on the outside is a little bit too long. You need a deep wrench socket or cut it a little bit.

Edited by larres, 28 June 2018 - 06:47 AM.

[vocky]

I personally would not fit a pattern driveshaft to a Harrop SC car

[Arno]

My question is, will my joint be knackered? Should I replace it anyway as a precaution as its been run on track with a split boot. What can I look for, when I strip it for signs of wear?

It's not great to run it that way as it may have expelled a lot of the grease reducing the lubrication and let dirt in.

 

One thing to check is if the CV joint has any torsional play in it. So if you turn the wheel end, is there 'slop' in the joint before the other end turns. If so then it's pretty much toast and not rebuildable.

 

If that still feels OK, then if you strip it down examine the balls and cup/races for any wear spots in the housing or galling/wear on the balls.

 

If there's only some smooth shiny/polished spots and no damage/scratches/galling to the balls then rebuilding it should be OK.

 

In that case, do try to keep the whole CV joint oriented the same. So keep the center section aligned with the outside 'as is' (eg. use some paint marker or a punch to make marks) and also keep the balls in the same 'pockets'. That way any bits that have worn in and shaped will stay 'matched'.

 

It's not a hard requirement, but tends to work nicer in the end.

 

Bye, Arno.

[fiveoclock]

The reason your shaft originally popped out of the diff will be because the snap ring is worn/compressed or has a flat on it. If you fit a used shaft make sure the snap ring is ok. Any wear on it will show up as shiny and you'll see that the outer profile is a bit flat.

[swast4]

Thanks Arno, I replaced my boot today and there was just a few shiney parts but no damage, so hopefully got away with it.

Took me 4 hours, god knows how someone's done it in 45 mins!

And wow what a messy job! I took the toe link and hub carry off where the top ball joint is, this was easiest as I've replaced the hub carrier bolts recently.

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[Arno]

CV grease tends to get everywhere if you are not very careful..

 

You start noticing black smudges and greasy marks all over the car, yourself, your tools, furniture...

 

When I rebuilt my outer CV's I used some of the NEO HPCC1 grease, which takes this to a whole new level as far as stickyness and 'black marks all over the place' goes!

 

Bye, Arno.

[BRG_Rob]

Sorry to drag this thread out of obscurity but...

 

Does anyone know how many teeth the driveshaft has? As in, splines going into the CV joint. To me it looks like an Astra GSI inner CV joint (passenger side) is identical to the VX.... 

 

This is for the Astra CV joint: 

 

INNER TEETH : 35
OUTER TEETH : 34
SEAL DIAMETEER : 35,00

Edited by BRG_Rob, 07 June 2024 - 07:54 PM.

[hairy]

According to larres post above yes, but outside thread is longer.