25 replies to this topic

[D-DAWG83]

Im seriously toying with the idea of having my 2 single doors replaced with full width door. Has anyone had this done, and did you go sectional door or roller shutter? As i understand it, sectional is better in every way except you need the rails in the garage for thw door to go back on, which im not keen on. Iv had one quote of 4.5k, and one at 3.5k. Its alot of money so want to get it right.

[The Batman]

Kristopha pointed me to this company for cheap roller doors, he fitted one of there's and is very happy Www.auto-roll.com I am guessing you need a steel beam between the two side pillars to eliminate the middle one? When I was looking at extending the garage, the steel beam wasn't expensive at all to be honest

[darronwall]

Look on eBay for a glideroll, I paid 1000 for a 4000 mm one a few years ago inc the elec motor

[jules_s]

Depends on the garage in the first place

 

Double the span usually needs some work to the piers either side, and the lintol over the opening will be somewhat deeper than what's there at the moment (if there is one at all)

[Foxy]

I've been thinking about doing this but the cost is putting me off. I'll probably just replace the two crappy up and overs with electric roller jobs. Is your central pillar brick or a wooden post?

[D-DAWG83]

Central pillar is brick, and iv got 2 steel lintels which almost meet in the middle. Iv also been told that il need a PVC facia over the lintel, or pay to have the bricks carefully removed, cleaned up and replaced.

[Foxy]

Same as mine...sound like a load of hassle. I definitely wouldn't want a fascia - my doors are in the gable end so it would look shit. Might try to get a quote all the same.

[Dan r]

I've got sectional Hormann doors and they're great, they obviously go back into the garage but you only loose the top 150mm or so of the wall, roller shutters are good if you can afford to loose some access head room as they need a box to roll into and you need all the wall space inside. Regarding the beam, if you wanted a brick gable above you can have a plate welded to the bottom of the I beam to build a brick wall on top of or you can just render board or mesh over a normal beam then render or tile hang over it. I assume the gable is brick? Post a photo as already said it depends what its like?

[D-DAWG83]

Here are a couple of photo's

[ElizP987]

Sectional Doors are NOT better in every way. Both have their pros and cons

The best roller door on the market is an SWS Securoglide Excel Roller Door. Made in Lancaster. You get what you pay for. Don't bother with a Glideroll, they are crap. If you compared them side by side you would see there is a massive difference.  They are also driven from one side by the motor which causes the curtain to cone aswell.

Its personal preference but if you have the headroom, go for the roller door as they are neater, and you don't lose as much space.

Sectional doors just don't justify the cost, the back of them is extremely thin aswell.

At the size you are looking at, the roller door would be more secure also.

Rick has been installing and repairing garage doors for over 20 years so is speaking from experience

 

Hope it helps

[PaulCP]

Had ours done 4 years ago and don't know why I didn't do it earlier, much better for working around the car when you can get it in the middle of the garage. We have a Hormann sectional door which works really well. The rail doesn't cause a problem but when we looked at roller doors what would have caused a problem in our case was the overall height needed. Needed a new long one piece lintel but the gable end is over our door so it was essential to ensure that removing the central pillar didn't case any structural issues.

[Griffin]

You'll need to replace the lintel, depending on wall thickness something like a Catnic CXL lintel, or a universal beam with a plate welded to the bottom which allows you to keep brickwork on the outside. A trim piece covering a beam always looks crap. You should in theroy make a application to Building Control for any structural work, and you might need a structural engineer to design a beam for you. Labour will be the biggest expense.

 

No personal experience of roller doors, I have an up and over, but have specified Hormann.

[D-DAWG83]

Chewrs for the help folks. Is it worth the saving to organise and sort it all myself, or just pay a company to do everything start to finish?

[Dan r]

That depends on your bank balance and your building skills! Get some quotes for materials needed and for someone to do the job as labour only if you can

[Dan r]

A catnic type that size will cost a fortune, an I beam with a plate on the bottom will be cheaper and will also need galvanizing

[D-DAWG83]

Building skills are zero! Lol Im not really a fan of having a PVC facia, so would want some bricks putting back in. Door width will be 5200mm, so need a 5550-5600 Lintel by the looks of it. I think il get an expert in to tell me what type etc, as iv not got a clue.

[Dan r]

It'll be well worth the effort

[Alastair]

Another vote for [color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]sectional Hormann doors, top quality and worth the extra money, i am really pleased i paid the extra over cheaper looking roller doors.  They will prevent things being hung on the ceiling though as they retract in to the garage.  [/color]

[jules_s]

You'll need to replace the lintel, depending on wall thickness something like a Catnic CXL lintel, or a universal beam with a plate welded to the bottom which allows you to keep brickwork on the outside. A trim piece covering a beam always looks crap. You should in theroy make a application to Building Control for any structural work, and you might need a structural engineer to design a beam for you. Labour will be the biggest expense.

 

No personal experience of roller doors, I have an up and over, but have specified Hormann.

I used a [color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Catnic CXL lintel and Pistol soldiers, then painted the lintel soffitte for that free standing look [/color]

[D-DAWG83]

Any photo's Jules? The initial quote from one place was £4200 for supply and fit of a Securoglide classic, but that was with a brown/black/white finish. If you want the wood effect, its £300 more. And that was with a PVC facia.