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Vx Given Full Classic Status By Classic And Sports Car Magazine!

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#41 Wolfstone

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 09:44 PM

When I proof read the article (I didn't at that point have sight of the section on the one for sale where the blue arb is mentioned) I pointed out that chains are recommended to be changed at 100,000m or 10 years. Given he changed other things I pointed out I'm not sure why he didn't change that bit. Maybe erring on the side of caution for future buyers?

#42 ghand

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:07 PM

Christ you lot are so negative.

  It just tickles one of my irritations, those who write into car mags enquiring whether their beloved is a 'classic'.  Truth is, there's no such thing as a classic or the mythical status of being so.  It's in the eye of the beholder.    So called 'classic car' policies are merely limited mileage policies.   If you think your VX is a classic, go and ask Freddie March whether you can enter one of his races.  I'll hear him laughing from here.
Have to disagree fella. Clasic Lines will insure my VX with a 10 k mileage limit and an agreed valuation fixed until I want to change it but will not insure my Celica or a run or the mill Ford. Try to get an agreed evaluation price fixed and considerably less than the normal costs on a bog shed and if you do give me the company number for my shed I'll change company and save sh*t loads He wouldn't have a VX enter as it would win every race 👍😂😂😂😂

#43 fezzasus

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:08 PM

In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one. 

 

I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear).

 

I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars.

 

(it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)



#44 ghand

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:20 PM

In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one. 

  I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear).   I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars.   (it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)
When the tensioner reaches max and the chain starts to gradually slacken won't you hear it becoming noisy and rattle especially when cold way before it gets slack enough to jump teeth. A chain must be well slack and sound like two skeletons shagging in an old dust bin before its slack enough to jump teeth won't it, he says hopefully 😂😂😂😂

#45 vocky

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:28 PM

My advice has always been if you hear a rattle on cold start up get them changed, if it bothers you that they are getting old then get them changed. Otherwise enjoy your vx.

 

But nobody moans about replacing a four year old cambelt which has only done 5000 miles do they .....



#46 Andyeddie

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:37 PM

In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one. 

  I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear).   I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars.   (it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)
When the tensioner reaches max and the chain starts to gradually slacken won't you hear it becoming noisy and rattle especially when cold way before it gets slack enough to jump teeth. A chain must be well slack and sound like two skeletons shagging in an old dust bin before its slack enough to jump teeth won't it, he says hopefully 😂😂😂😂
Ghandd, love your analogy of the 2 skeletons shagging!!! But yes, in my opinion, your dead (pun intended) right. If the chain were stretched, the guides worn to their limit, you would have been guilty of neglect letting it get to that point, I mean they don't just wear overnight. Back to my original point though, the article says you need to replace the chain, tensioner X etc at 60k, again in my opinion, that's none sense, of course I've seen belts/chains fail way below their intended life, but more often than not, if maintained oroperly these components will last well longer than the published intervals, it's just a bit of a gamble to do so. But in the case of the engine were talking about here a 60k chain change is bollocks, unless of course you want to, it's a free world after all.

#47 Wolfstone

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:09 PM

Like I said, I pointed out in the proof read that it was recommended at 100k or 10 years. Its no big bloody deal is it? Otherwise I think its a well written article that sells how good these cars are. Can't we all just be grateful for that? If you don't agree then then why the hell do you own one in the first place? And Partridge, I didn't write in asking if my VX was a classic. They wanted to write an article on the VX and I put my name and car forward. I had no idea until the article was written that they were going to mention it attaining classic status.

Edited by Wolfstone, 06 January 2017 - 11:10 PM.


#48 ghand

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:18 PM

In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one. 

  I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear).   I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars.   (it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)
When the tensioner reaches max and the chain starts to gradually slacken won't you hear it becoming noisy and rattle especially when cold way before it gets slack enough to jump teeth. A chain must be well slack and sound like two skeletons shagging in an old dust bin before its slack enough to jump teeth won't it, he says hopefully 😂😂😂😂
Ghandd, love your analogy of the 2 skeletons shagging!!! But yes, in my opinion, your dead (pun intended) right. If the chain were stretched, the guides worn to their limit, you would have been guilty of neglect letting it get to that point, I mean they don't just wear overnight. Back to my original point though, the article says you need to replace the chain, tensioner X etc at 60k, again in my opinion, that's none sense, of course I've seen belts/chains fail way below their intended life, but more often than not, if maintained oroperly these components will last well longer than the published intervals, it's just a bit of a gamble to do so. But in the case of the engine were talking about here a 60k chain change is bollocks, unless of course you want to, it's a free world after all.
I've seen thease engines with 140k plus miles on them on old runabout cars still going strong without the dedication to regular good quality oil changes most VXs get but it's just a gamble at the end of the day I suppose. I've been going to change mine for ages but it's only done 85K and still sounds like a Rolex so may hang on for the skeletons 👍😂😂😂

#49 ghand

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:24 PM

I'd change biscuit seats well before 60k 👍😂😂 Catch you tomorrow Wolfy, don't bring a Nerf gun 👍😂 Bet mines the only VX turns up, you fecking wusses 😄( if the chain lasts )

#50 hairy

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:30 PM

 

Christ you lot are so negative.

 

It just tickles one of my irritations, those who write into car mags enquiring whether their beloved is a 'classic'.  Truth is, there's no such thing as a classic or the mythical status of being so.  It's in the eye of the beholder. 

 

So called 'classic car' policies are merely limited mileage policies.

 

If you think your VX is a classic, go and ask Freddie March whether you can enter one of his races.  I'll hear him laughing from here.

 

 

Who is Freddie March? Honestly.  



#51 hairy

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:33 PM

Classic status! Now I'll have to sell it as I have no intention of wearing a flat cap and smoking a pipe in my car.

 

Martin S

ps Then again, maybe a flat cap might just work?!

 

 

 

Flat cap works on a lotus, but you need a baseball cap for a VX!



#52 The Batman

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:44 PM

Peasants

#53 ghand

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:58 PM

Peasants

😂

#54 TheRealVXed

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 09:36 AM

The second point in the Against column isn't exactly true either... I don't think Stage 2 and below mods have affected reliability... Even with SCs no?



#55 Wolfstone

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 09:55 AM

If you read the second column on the first page you'll see that reliability is noted as being an issue for higher levels of modification and specifically refers to cars with output from 300 bhp. That's what he's referring back to in the 'Against' point.

#56 vocky

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 10:25 AM

for what it's worth in 2016 I only heard of one engine failure, not bad considering how many tweaked z22se cars are out there thumbsup

 

And he knew his chain rattled but ignored it !


Edited by vocky, 07 January 2017 - 10:26 AM.


#57 Andyeddie

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 08:32 PM

for what it's worth in 2016 I only heard of one engine failure, not bad considering how many tweaked z22se cars are out there thumbsup   And he knew his chain rattled but ignored it !

It's worth a lot, probably around the cost of a needless chain/tensioner/guides/waterpump change out at 60k I subscribe to the o,d adage, take care of it and it will take care of you.

#58 turbo boy

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 09:34 PM

Bought a copy of the mag Ken just so I could check out your blue and biscuit 😊 Good feature to be honest. I have been saying for some time that these cars are due for rare / colllectable status.... I genuinely believe that remaining low mileage turbos will very soon creep towards £20k value. Cheers, Jon

#59 jonnyboy

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 06:17 PM

The auction one will do 20k I'm the spring it's possible we might see 20 on something.

#60 Andyeddie

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 07:32 PM

Pheasants 🈲





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