Vx Given Full Classic Status By Classic And Sports Car Magazine!
#41
Posted 06 January 2017 - 09:44 PM
#42
Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:07 PM
Have to disagree fella. Clasic Lines will insure my VX with a 10 k mileage limit and an agreed valuation fixed until I want to change it but will not insure my Celica or a run or the mill Ford. Try to get an agreed evaluation price fixed and considerably less than the normal costs on a bog shed and if you do give me the company number for my shed I'll change company and save sh*t loads He wouldn't have a VX enter as it would win every race 👍😂😂😂😂It just tickles one of my irritations, those who write into car mags enquiring whether their beloved is a 'classic'. Truth is, there's no such thing as a classic or the mythical status of being so. It's in the eye of the beholder. So called 'classic car' policies are merely limited mileage policies. If you think your VX is a classic, go and ask Freddie March whether you can enter one of his races. I'll hear him laughing from here.Christ you lot are so negative.
#43
Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:08 PM
In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one.
I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear).
I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars.
(it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)
#44
Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:20 PM
When the tensioner reaches max and the chain starts to gradually slacken won't you hear it becoming noisy and rattle especially when cold way before it gets slack enough to jump teeth. A chain must be well slack and sound like two skeletons shagging in an old dust bin before its slack enough to jump teeth won't it, he says hopefully 😂😂😂😂I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear). I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars. (it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one.
#45
Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:28 PM
My advice has always been if you hear a rattle on cold start up get them changed, if it bothers you that they are getting old then get them changed. Otherwise enjoy your vx.
But nobody moans about replacing a four year old cambelt which has only done 5000 miles do they .....
#46
Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:37 PM
Ghandd, love your analogy of the 2 skeletons shagging!!! But yes, in my opinion, your dead (pun intended) right. If the chain were stretched, the guides worn to their limit, you would have been guilty of neglect letting it get to that point, I mean they don't just wear overnight. Back to my original point though, the article says you need to replace the chain, tensioner X etc at 60k, again in my opinion, that's none sense, of course I've seen belts/chains fail way below their intended life, but more often than not, if maintained oroperly these components will last well longer than the published intervals, it's just a bit of a gamble to do so. But in the case of the engine were talking about here a 60k chain change is bollocks, unless of course you want to, it's a free world after all.When the tensioner reaches max and the chain starts to gradually slacken won't you hear it becoming noisy and rattle especially when cold way before it gets slack enough to jump teeth. A chain must be well slack and sound like two skeletons shagging in an old dust bin before its slack enough to jump teeth won't it, he says hopefully 😂😂😂😂I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear). I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars. (it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one.
#47
Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:09 PM
Edited by Wolfstone, 06 January 2017 - 11:10 PM.
#48
Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:18 PM
I've seen thease engines with 140k plus miles on them on old runabout cars still going strong without the dedication to regular good quality oil changes most VXs get but it's just a gamble at the end of the day I suppose. I've been going to change mine for ages but it's only done 85K and still sounds like a Rolex so may hang on for the skeletons 👍😂😂😂Ghandd, love your analogy of the 2 skeletons shagging!!! But yes, in my opinion, your dead (pun intended) right. If the chain were stretched, the guides worn to their limit, you would have been guilty of neglect letting it get to that point, I mean they don't just wear overnight. Back to my original point though, the article says you need to replace the chain, tensioner X etc at 60k, again in my opinion, that's none sense, of course I've seen belts/chains fail way below their intended life, but more often than not, if maintained oroperly these components will last well longer than the published intervals, it's just a bit of a gamble to do so. But in the case of the engine were talking about here a 60k chain change is bollocks, unless of course you want to, it's a free world after all.When the tensioner reaches max and the chain starts to gradually slacken won't you hear it becoming noisy and rattle especially when cold way before it gets slack enough to jump teeth. A chain must be well slack and sound like two skeletons shagging in an old dust bin before its slack enough to jump teeth won't it, he says hopefully 😂😂😂😂I think you've both missed the point here. A worn chain vs. new chain has the same tension providing the tensioner is still working within it's operating range. The failure occurs when the tensioner reaches maximum extension and the chain starts developing slack and jumps a tooth (either through chain elongation or guide wear). I've seen this in an engine with only 40 k miles on. It certainly isn't something that can be ignored on these cars. (it's also a massive issue for current 4 cylinder direct injection engines which almost all feature chains, the next oil standard will include a chain elongation test)In all seriousness though a chain guide covered in lubricant vs a slightly worn chain guide covered in lubricant = virtually no measurable difference in the tension or pressure on the chain. Its just a guide thats had the chain dragging over it for a bit longer than a new one.
#49
Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:24 PM
#50
Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:30 PM
Christ you lot are so negative.
It just tickles one of my irritations, those who write into car mags enquiring whether their beloved is a 'classic'. Truth is, there's no such thing as a classic or the mythical status of being so. It's in the eye of the beholder.
So called 'classic car' policies are merely limited mileage policies.
If you think your VX is a classic, go and ask Freddie March whether you can enter one of his races. I'll hear him laughing from here.
Who is Freddie March? Honestly.
#51
Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:33 PM
Classic status! Now I'll have to sell it as I have no intention of wearing a flat cap and smoking a pipe in my car.
Martin S
ps Then again, maybe a flat cap might just work?!
Flat cap works on a lotus, but you need a baseball cap for a VX!
#52
Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:44 PM
#53
Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:58 PM
😂Peasants
#54
Posted 07 January 2017 - 09:36 AM
The second point in the Against column isn't exactly true either... I don't think Stage 2 and below mods have affected reliability... Even with SCs no?
#55
Posted 07 January 2017 - 09:55 AM
#56
Posted 07 January 2017 - 10:25 AM
for what it's worth in 2016 I only heard of one engine failure, not bad considering how many tweaked z22se cars are out there
And he knew his chain rattled but ignored it !
Edited by vocky, 07 January 2017 - 10:26 AM.
#57
Posted 07 January 2017 - 08:32 PM
It's worth a lot, probably around the cost of a needless chain/tensioner/guides/waterpump change out at 60k I subscribe to the o,d adage, take care of it and it will take care of you.for what it's worth in 2016 I only heard of one engine failure, not bad considering how many tweaked z22se cars are out there And he knew his chain rattled but ignored it !
#58
Posted 07 January 2017 - 09:34 PM
#59
Posted 08 January 2017 - 06:17 PM
#60
Posted 08 January 2017 - 07:32 PM
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