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Couple Of Things!

advice central locking brakes

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#1 DX220

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 08:25 PM

Good evening gents, looking for wisdom about a couple of things:

 

1. Whenever I do a left-hander, the ABS lights up. The braking itself seems to be fine, braking fluid levels are normal &, only happens with left turns ~ > 20mph  :blink:

What's that all about? (lotus 4-channel CPU)

 

2. Where is the sensor/receiver for remote central locking? And is it replaceable?

Key-fob stopped working yesterday (luckily with car unlocked). Assumed it was the batteries, you can guess what happened when I changed them! (sod all!)

Have a spare fob, tried several combinations of batteries, little circuit board inside fobs......  :ffs:

 

Lest it's relevant; completely flattened battery a couple of days ago.

One of the kids prob tugged the trickle-charger. Wire came out from join I put in cable to get it thru wall of house.

+ve & -ve kissing  = pancaked battery

Seems to have survived recharging

 

Much aprreciated



#2 Madmitch

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 08:37 PM

Had precisely this problem with my ABS a couple of years back.  Turned out one of the wires to the NSF hub had broken right where it goes into the hub.  Managed to drill a tiny hole a couple of mm into where the wire goes into the hub and miraculously was able to get it all soldered together.  Didn't think it would last but it is still there.  Plan B for when it goes again is to take about a cm of copper wire core and file a point on it, tin it and then tap it gently into the tiny hole in the hub, then heat it until the solder melts and then solder the wire to the post to make a more permanent fix, 'Voila', job done!


Edited by Madmitch, 24 April 2017 - 08:41 PM.


#3 DX220

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 09:16 PM

Had precisely this problem with my ABS a couple of years back.  Turned out one of the wires to the NSF hub had broken right where it goes into the hub.  Managed to drill a tiny hole a couple of mm into where the wire goes into the hub and miraculously was able to get it all soldered together.  Didn't think it would last but it is still there.  Plan B for when it goes again is to take about a cm of copper wire core and file a point on it, tin it and then tap it gently into the tiny hole in the hub, then heat it until the solder melts and then solder the wire to the post to make a more permanent fix, 'Voila', job done!

 

Ok, when my head stops spinning I suspect I'll be extremely grateful  :wacko:



#4 navx

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 10:04 PM

Brake fluid sometimes has to be topped up to brimming point to stop the level sensor thinking it's too low. Worth a try.

#5 .Adam.

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 09:18 AM

Central locking unit is under the dash top, just in front of the binnacle, dead easy to change. What are the buttons on the door doing when you try to lock/unlock the car? If they move a bit, then if it was like mine, it might be the CDL unit, if they don't move then it might be the alarm unit. Does it still lock/unlock using the switch on the steering cowl? If it does, then I would think it's the alarm. If it's the CDL, then you can get them repaired, cheaper than a new one, assuming you can find one, they seem to be in short supply. Have a look here:

https://www.technoze...-module-repair/

 

You can get replacement alarm units from Abacus for around £150 if needed.

http://abacuscaralar...d&productId=555


Edited by .Adam., 25 April 2017 - 09:24 AM.


#6 Nev

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 10:18 AM

If your battery positive shorted to your negative you may have done something nasty to your electrics...

 



#7 DX220

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 08:23 PM

Brake fluid sometimes has to be topped up to brimming point to stop the level sensor thinking it's too low. Worth a try.

 

 

Central locking unit is under the dash top, just in front of the binnacle, dead easy to change. What are the buttons on the door doing when you try to lock/unlock the car? If they move a bit, then if it was like mine, it might be the CDL unit, if they don't move then it might be the alarm unit. Does it still lock/unlock using the switch on the steering cowl? If it does, then I would think it's the alarm. If it's the CDL, then you can get them repaired, cheaper than a new one, assuming you can find one, they seem to be in short supply. Have a look here:

https://www.technoze...-module-repair/

 

You can get replacement alarm units from Abacus for around £150 if needed.

http://abacuscaralar...d&productId=555

 

 

Will explore both these avenues on Friday.

 

Not holding my breath about the electrics tho  :(



#8 jibber

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 02:01 PM

Good evening gents, looking for wisdom about a couple of things:

 

1. Whenever I do a left-hander, the ABS lights up. The braking itself seems to be fine, braking fluid levels are normal &, only happens with left turns ~ > 20mph  :blink:

What's that all about? (lotus 4-channel CPU)

 

Had exactly that same issue with mine. Check your wheel bearings. 



#9 DX220

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Posted 29 April 2017 - 10:02 PM

............. Does it still lock/unlock using the switch on the steering cowl? If it does, then I would think it's the alarm. .............

 

You can get replacement alarm units from Abacus for around £150 if needed.

http://abacuscaralar...d&productId=555

 

So, switch on steering cowl does work. (never used it in a ~ decade of ownership!)

Any way of double checking my fobs are still working before parting with £150?  :huh:



#10 DX220

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 09:40 PM

The saga continues  :tt:

 

Ordered alarm and was using the car, without locking it.

 

Got stranded after not trickle-charging overnight, driving somewhere and leaving the car a couple of hours.

Battery dies whilst driving, must be alternator right?

Deposited at garage, new battery, alternator tested - all good.

And the nice man fiddled with my fob and got it working!!!  :groupjump:

 

Except,

Except...

Just did it all over again

Proper soaking today, soggy coat, soggy trousers, soggy socks.............

Is there anything worse than being stranded in a VX in heavy rain?  :(

Battery dies whilst driving, must be alternator right?

Roadside electrical testing suggests not

 

So...

If your battery positive shorted to your negative you may have done something nasty to your electrics...

 

Am fearing you are right

And it's going to be the ECU isn't it?  :ffs:



#11 smiley

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 09:53 PM

If the engine is running and the garage man measures the amps, it should have been around 14 if the alternator was ok (and charging).

12, if the alternator does nothing.

 



#12 Madmitch

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 10:08 PM

Amps or Volts................??



#13 smiley

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 10:27 PM

volts of course.

Time for bed.

 



#14 jonnyboy

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 05:01 AM

Check all the fuses These cars don't like dead shorts have seen quite a few with knackered immobilisers after incorrect charging. I theory you should get a battery light if it's not charging but not always. If you have access to a test meter you should get 14v when the car is running. Its not the ecu if the cars running ok you can pretty much rule that out. A very basic thing that can be overlooked are the battery terminals tight?

Edited by jonnyboy, 18 May 2017 - 05:01 AM.


#15 DX220

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 04:24 PM

I'm beginning to think the moral here is; 'trust no one!  :angry2:

(Except you good people of course).

 

The garage who fitted the new battery said 'alternator checked & working'.

The recovery man who picked me up when car died whilst driving (and the driver said he thought it was his alternator), said 'no, your alternator is fine'

 

In desperation, decided to see if 'Torque' & cheap OBDII adapter would give me a fault code.

No fault codes   :( .

 

However...

Battery voltage reading of car switched on but not started (CTEK overnight): 12.3 - 12.4V

Idling car Torque says 12.1V  :blink:

 

Voltage meter says the same!!

How is that not the alternator?

 

Ok, could be a loose wire I suppose, but logically I change the alternator 1st right?

And voltages should be checked at battery terminals, correct?



#16 james_ly

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 12:23 PM

Do you get a warning light on the dash? (think there is a battery one, when my aux belt disintegrated a light came on). Maybe the belt is slipping meaning it's not charging fully?



#17 DX220

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 09:53 PM

No warning light yesterday.

 

Have seen it about a week ago when this started happening.

Was flashing intermittently when accelerating which I suppose could go with a belt.



#18 DX220

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Posted 01 June 2017 - 08:53 PM

Update - alternator  :grouphug:

 

Of course the turbo hose then fell off with the excitement......but that's another story!  :happy:



#19 .Adam.

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 05:18 PM

Did you change it yourself? Think mine needs changing soon and can't decide whether to try it myself or not!



#20 DX220

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 02:52 PM

Did you change it yourself? Think mine needs changing soon and can't decide whether to try it myself or not!

 

Sorry for late reply, didn't see alert.

 

My father in law who's a car mechanic was visiting the following week.

Less swearing than normal if that helps  :tt:







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