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Brake Lines - Mot Failure


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#21 vocky

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 07:17 AM

I think you would need three metre hoses to replace the brake line from the ABS to the rear connection



#22 quimbles

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 07:57 AM

 

maybe the long pedal wasn't the pads after all? coincidence?

 

I'm hoping it was a coincidence... what if I'd run into the back of that BMW with the big wing  :o :D

 

Thanks vocky, Nelly and ghand - really appreciate your help  chinky chinky  I'm going to give Matt another ring tomorrow and see if he'd be happy to fit a Hell kit. Any idea how long your mate took to get through the packing material, ghand? And do you have a link, price and/or part number to the kit?

 

 

 

it would have improved the appearance..... of the bmw that is!



#23 robin

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 01:20 PM

Yes it's three meter lines needed not two But as mentioned is a pig to get from sill to front fixing points But running through sill is easy bit my suggestion is to get some White conduite which is flexible and push this down sill through The foam blocks and then feed the line through conduite Which then gives lines protection and stops rattling around.

#24 TheStotts

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 04:08 PM

Did this with bolt666 on his car, looked exactly as the pictures.. think we cut out the section at the rear bulkhead, and possibly got access to the other end of sill from front wheel arch. Copper pipe flarer, couple of nuts, roll of pipe.. it sounds a much worse job than it really is..

 

Must admit I'm not sure how exactly you managed to deal with the section in the pics - is it not completely enclosed in the sill? Car still at garage so can't look right now...

 

Thanks for any further info on the approach you took  :)



#25 TheStotts

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 04:30 PM

I think you would need three metre hoses to replace the brake line from the ABS to the rear connection

 

Thanks thumbsup

 

Yes it's three meter lines needed not two
But as mentioned is a pig to get from sill to front fixing points
But running through sill is easy bit my suggestion is to get some
White conduite which is flexible and push this down sill through
The foam blocks and then feed the line through conduite
Which then gives lines protection and stops rattling around.

 

Thanks - I think that makes sense! Is it difficult to route the flexi from the front end of the sill through to the ABS unit? Does it go under the dash and/or radiator? It's on the drivers side if that makes a difference. Sorry car still at garage so can't check and picture below not helping too much!

 

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#26 robin

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 05:04 PM

I keep meaning to have a look on car to work the front section out but from Looking at it it's feed same route as existing pipes will be fun for access From sill section

#27 haggi961

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 06:55 PM

Hel got that kit from me when I had mine made up but the sizes are:
Posted Image

Red to yellow circle brake lines is 250cm x2.

Yellow circle to blue circle brake lines is 68cm x2.
Brake lines are dash 3 and m10x1

Clutch line red circle to yellow is 293cm x1.
Clutch hose is dash 3 with m12 fittings.

All fitted with the sills on and for piece of mind I covered all the hoses in the sill in heat protection sleeve incase they sit on the coolant pipes.

Edited by haggi961, 06 June 2017 - 06:57 PM.


#28 haggi961

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 07:03 PM

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#29 tommobot

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 09:06 PM

Did this with bolt666 on his car, looked exactly as the pictures.. think we cut out the section at the rear bulkhead, and possibly got access to the other end of sill from front wheel arch. Copper pipe flarer, couple of nuts, roll of pipe.. it sounds a much worse job than it really is..

  Must admit I'm not sure how exactly you managed to deal with the section in the pics - is it not completely enclosed in the sill? Car still at garage so can't look right now...   Thanks for any further info on the approach you took  :)
From memory, cut out the section of each end of the sill, thread new pipe through and create a join at each end before it enters the sill..

#30 ghand

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 10:32 PM

I think you would need three metre hoses to replace the brake line from the ABS to the rear connection

Yes mine must be the 3m kit I think 👍 .

Edited by ghand, 06 June 2017 - 10:39 PM.


#31 TheStotts

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 07:58 AM

I keep meaning to have a look on car to work the front section out but from
Looking at it it's feed same route as existing pipes will be fun for access
From sill section

 

Managed to take a quick pic last night. I think you can see the brake line at point 14 in the middle of the pic and it's travel up the chassis is under the black cover with the light logo. Does anyone know if that cover can be unbolted/lifted without removing the front clam? I'm hoping to remove the front wheel arch tonight and see what the access is like to the sill and back the other way towards point 14. All good fun  :)

 

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#32 TheStotts

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 09:08 AM

Many thanks for all the info Haggi  :)

 

Can you explain what is going on in your second picture please? Is this showing the coolant pipe and brake line going up the sill? If so where is all the sill packing? What method did you use to get the brake line through the sill? Sorry if these are stupid questions!

 

Found a useful thread with some pics showing access to the sill. Bit at a loss as to how you get access at the front though. Any pointers would be great  thumbsup

 

http://www.vx220.org...re-rad-fitting/

 

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#33 TheStotts

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 09:12 AM

 

 

Did this with bolt666 on his car, looked exactly as the pictures.. think we cut out the section at the rear bulkhead, and possibly got access to the other end of sill from front wheel arch. Copper pipe flarer, couple of nuts, roll of pipe.. it sounds a much worse job than it really is..

  Must admit I'm not sure how exactly you managed to deal with the section in the pics - is it not completely enclosed in the sill? Car still at garage so can't look right now...   Thanks for any further info on the approach you took  :)
From memory, cut out the section of each end of the sill, thread new pipe through and create a join at each end before it enters the sill..

 

 

Makes sense - thank you  :)



#34 TheStotts

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 10:18 AM

Does anyone if the access panel discussed in the thread below is at the front or the rear of the car? Thread is for passenger side sill but hoping there's one of the drivers side too.

 

Cheers  :)

 

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http://www.vx220.org...-advice-needed/

 

 



#35 ChrisS1

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 10:36 AM

Front under the sill cover AFAIK



#36 fezzasus

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 10:57 AM

confirmed, access both passenger and driver side front under sills. You can widen the NA access with a dremel 



#37 TheStotts

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 11:13 AM

Thanks for the confirmation chaps  :)

 

Appreciate adding another join into the line isn't ideal but if it's done right is this a safe option? The one thing I'm confused about this approach is how the brake pipe is fed from the back through the sill and safely secured. Unfortunately it looks like Bolt666 hasn't been on the forum for a while :( Can you remember how you secured the new run of pipe, tommobot? Did you force the new pipe through the packing material rather than along its normal path strapped to the coolant pipe?



#38 ChrisS1

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 11:20 AM

Just had a quick look on SELOC and the S1 Elise has the brake lines running inside the cabin under a central divider. Is this a possible easier route (although it does involve dropping the tank)?



#39 fezzasus

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 11:55 AM

https://forums.seloc...ge=1#pid7113048

 

Same discussion here.

 

Central divider is no go due to the size of the wiring loom



#40 fezzasus

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 11:59 AM

One thought. It's only the last 4 inches of pipe that need replacing (the part exposed by the side vents). How far can you get a flaring tool into the sill? You can then make up sill to rear caliper lines from copper.






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