

2Nd Time Round! - Twincharge
#81
Posted 15 April 2018 - 06:47 PM

#82
Posted 15 April 2018 - 07:00 PM
No mate just doing it as it gives so much more room and looks better! No need for the rear window once the coupe is on either. I plan to eventually have a quick release rear clam also, so that coupled with the bulkhead being moved should make it nice to work on and check things over regulerly etcYes that hole in the piston may be the problem lol you doing the bulkhead to make room for a bigger charger ?
#83
Posted 15 April 2018 - 07:18 PM
Heres a few pics of what a hot piston looks like...... https://i.imgur.com/kdGDTWs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZfxRDBq.jpg
ooooh, that's not good
#84
Posted 16 April 2018 - 10:42 AM
So that will be a fresh B207 block with 2.2 crank/pistons/rods and a well massaged head then...
(Going for Wiseco pistions + Eagle rods?)
#86
Posted 29 April 2018 - 02:37 PM
Your doing this build on a "standard" Z22/B207 block I see. (Is it not a new B207? Block looks used.)
Saw last week a cracked #4 cilinder sleeve on a track 2.2 Harrop + WI (on OBD Pro). That one will be rebuild with a stronger Gen 3 sandcast block.
Edited by Exmantaa, 29 April 2018 - 02:40 PM.
#87
Posted 29 April 2018 - 03:01 PM
It's a shame nobody thinks of supercharging a Z20LET block (with closed deck). Cheaper than importing all these expensive engine bits from America I would imagine.
Edited by Nev, 29 April 2018 - 03:01 PM.
#88
Posted 29 April 2018 - 03:22 PM
Your doing this build on a "standard" Z22/B207 block I see. (Is it not a new B207? Block looks used.)
Saw last week a cracked #4 cilinder sleeve on a track 2.2 Harrop + WI (on OBD Pro). That one will be rebuild with a stronger Gen 3 sandcast block.
it's an original vx220 z22se engine, plus the new B207 engines are about to run out
It's a shame nobody thinks of supercharging a Z20LET block (with closed deck). Cheaper than importing all these expensive engine bits from America I would imagine.
nobody wants a boat anchor engine, especially when they have a lightweight alloy z22se
#89
Posted 29 April 2018 - 03:43 PM
Circa 25 Kg extra, but a robust 200 HP extra. I know which I'd prefer!nobody wants a boat anchor engine, especially when they have a lightweight alloy z22seIt's a shame nobody thinks of supercharging a Z20LET block (with closed deck). Cheaper than importing all these expensive engine bits from America I would imagine.

Edited by Nev, 29 April 2018 - 03:46 PM.
#90
Posted 29 April 2018 - 04:37 PM
It's a shame nobody thinks of supercharging a Z20LET block (with closed deck). Cheaper than importing all these expensive engine bits from America I would imagine.
Nobody wants to go the hassle of re-inventing the wheel with the intake on the wrong side of the engine, as none of the SC parts will work, including the ecu...
#91
Posted 29 April 2018 - 07:01 PM
Nobody wants to go the hassle of re-inventing the wheel with the intake on the wrong side of the engine, as none of the SC parts will work, including the ecu...It's a shame nobody thinks of supercharging a Z20LET block (with closed deck). Cheaper than importing all these expensive engine bits from America I would imagine.
Rotrex would be a piece of cake to mount; I bet I could design and make the mount in < 1/2 day. Using remote CC would once and for all get rid of the biggest bugbear that the SC'ed kidz have, so you could actually sustain 500 HP for more than 5 seconds before your IATs soar. Using the Pro Alloy setup would be easy, or just use some generic unit.
But it would take a bit of initiative... and most people just want bolt on parts and instructions, although if anyone could do it I thought Rich could.
Edited by Nev, 29 April 2018 - 07:08 PM.
#92
Posted 29 April 2018 - 08:57 PM
How much power roughly was it running If it was power that broke it ?Your doing this build on a "standard" Z22/B207 block I see. (Is it not a new B207? Block looks used.) Saw last week a cracked #4 cilinder sleeve on a track 2.2 Harrop + WI (on OBD Pro). That one will be rebuild with a stronger Gen 3 sandcast block.
#93
Posted 29 April 2018 - 08:59 PM
#94
Posted 30 April 2018 - 06:11 AM
Nobody wants to go the hassle of re-inventing the wheel with the intake on the wrong side of the engine, as none of the SC parts will work, including the ecu...It's a shame nobody thinks of supercharging a Z20LET block (with closed deck). Cheaper than importing all these expensive engine bits from America I would imagine.
Rotrex would be a piece of cake to mount; I bet I could design and make the mount in < 1/2 day. Using remote CC would once and for all get rid of the biggest bugbear that the SC'ed kidz have, so you could actually sustain 500 HP for more than 5 seconds before your IATs soar. Using the Pro Alloy setup would be easy, or just use some generic unit.
But it would take a bit of initiative... and most people just want bolt on parts and instructions, although if anyone could do it I thought Rich could.
Piece of cake? Not quite. I have gone through that process on a B207. Looking back, it's more like 3-4 full days. Just for the bracket. If you add everything else required to make the belt drive work (Rotrex in location where the alternator normally is, smaller alternator to airco compressor location, bracket for the alternator, whole belt drive 6 ribs etc) you can easily double that time. True, I'm slow and it will depend on the tools you have, but half a day, no way Jose.
And after that you get the pleasure of routing all the pressure side hoses and the separate oil circuit for the Rotrex with it's own oil cooler. Add more time. In the end I hope it's worth it. The Rotrex is more compact, lighter (even with all the peripherals it requires) and more efficient. And you can add a decent chargecooler. We'll see if it's really a better solution than the Harrop.
#95
Posted 30 April 2018 - 06:54 AM
Once the required brackets and partslist would be clear, i think there would be more people interested in a rotrex setup.
Indeed when it becomes more more of a bolt-on experience.
Especially if you can get the cooling better under control then the current laminova/harrop setup.
It will also help if we get feedback from you once it's all up and running on how it behaves, as all we have is Peter and Mark
who ran/run the Rotrex but are not really forum feedback types.
#96
Posted 30 April 2018 - 10:12 AM
Nobody wants to go the hassle of re-inventing the wheel with the intake on the wrong side of the engine, as none of the SC parts will work, including the ecu...It's a shame nobody thinks of supercharging a Z20LET block (with closed deck). Cheaper than importing all these expensive engine bits from America I would imagine.
Rotrex would be a piece of cake to mount; I bet I could design and make the mount in < 1/2 day. Using remote CC would once and for all get rid of the biggest bugbear that the SC'ed kidz have, so you could actually sustain 500 HP for more than 5 seconds before your IATs soar. Using the Pro Alloy setup would be easy, or just use some generic unit.
But it would take a bit of initiative... and most people just want bolt on parts and instructions, although if anyone could do it I thought Rich could.
Piece of cake? Not quite. I have gone through that process on a B207. Looking back, it's more like 3-4 full days. Just for the bracket. If you add everything else required to make the belt drive work (Rotrex in location where the alternator normally is, smaller alternator to airco compressor location, bracket for the alternator, whole belt drive 6 ribs etc) you can easily double that time. True, I'm slow and it will depend on the tools you have, but half a day, no way Jose.
And after that you get the pleasure of routing all the pressure side hoses and the separate oil circuit for the Rotrex with it's own oil cooler. Add more time. In the end I hope it's worth it. The Rotrex is more compact, lighter (even with all the peripherals it requires) and more efficient. And you can add a decent chargecooler. We'll see if it's really a better solution than the Harrop.
I think I must work a lot faster than you then. I made 3 shaped, positioned and welded brackets for my silencer in a lot less than 1/2 a day for instance.
I'd install it low down BTW (not near the alternator).
Edited by Nev, 30 April 2018 - 10:13 AM.
#97
Posted 30 April 2018 - 10:47 AM
#98
Posted 30 April 2018 - 10:52 AM
End of the day, for anything under ~350bhp, a custom Rotrex set-up is a waste of time and effort (unless you have lots of those to spare) in comparison to the tweaked OEM parts already available.
On swapping on the 80's iron-block engine and everything else involved in that.. Eh, nope!
#99
Posted 30 April 2018 - 11:53 AM
@Nev, I bet you're a lot faster. Keep in mind however that a Rotrex doesn't allow for a lot of play and you have to get it in line with the other belt drive components. A PK belt drive does not allow for a lot of play either. It all boils down to getting the Rotrex and the new alternator within half a mm and less than 1 degree (as you're an engineer, one transitional and two rotational degrees of freedom). And nothing to start with, except the mounting points of the original alternator.
@The Batman, a C30 fits where the airco compressor is meant to go. So way down. A C38 is too big for that. Frank, Exmantaa on the forum, actually came up with the idea of putting it where the alternator is, which is almost ideal for the routing of all the tubes. Only issue is that you need to relocate the alternator and the old one doesn't fit ... more work
@Rosssco, more or less agree with that statement, although the main issue with the Harrop seems to be that you do get very high IAT's, mainly due to inefficiency of the blower and the manifold with the laminova cooling is not really up to the task of dealing with the amount of air you throw at it. My way of thinking went the same way however and my original 350HP went in northern directions. When you do it, you might as well ....
#100
Posted 30 April 2018 - 12:18 PM

Edited by The Batman, 30 April 2018 - 12:19 PM.
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