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Sc Engine Cooling - Fan Removal Etc


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#21 siztenboots

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 05:07 PM

add water wetter

 

or use a surfactant ( washing up liquid ) just a tiny amount , also consider glycerin



#22 MartinS

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 08:06 AM

Chacha that is exactly what In would do if sc'ing a vx again.

I am sure others have done that, hopefully they'll pop up on this chat to confirm it does the job.

Martin S

 



#23 Rosssco

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 12:48 PM

Chacha that is exactly what In would do if sc'ing a vx again. I am sure others have done that, hopefully they'll pop up on this chat to confirm it does the job. Martin S

Many (including myself previously) have used a front mounted oil-cooler radiator. This is perfectly fine for a 'stage 2' sort of power level, although anecdotally, they may struggle a touch with sustained track use.

 

A half main radiator size with a single fan would probably also work for the majority. The large proalloy is often selected I feel as its a relative easy fitment without f*nnying about with mounting brackets, hose routing / adaptor fittings etc. even though its probably over-kill for the majority of SC'd cars.



#24 aquilaproejct

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 09:24 PM

Do you leave the single fan to cool only the main rad? Or have it working through both the small pre rad and main rad?

#25 MartinS

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 08:12 AM

I tried water wetter and that didn't help either I'm afraid.

Half rad and a fan switch is the way to go I think.

 

Martin S

 



#26 Rosssco

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 08:22 AM

Do you leave the single fan to cool only the main rad? Or have it working through both the small pre rad and main rad?

  The small pre-rads are often mounted vertically (or at an angle) well in front of the main radiator, so do not interfere with the standard engine fan set-up.



#27 Steve.i.am

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 09:16 AM

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

Its good to know what's been tried and what doesn't have much effect before I go mucking about taking clam off etc. It looks like, if I do anything it'll be to change the CC radiator for a smaller one.



#28 Firthy

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 11:15 AM

Mine was having big problems with getting hot quickly. This improved dramatically by fitting an up rated fuel pump, not had the same issues since. I just wonder if some of the cars are running a little lean....

 

When I re ran the fuel learn it was adding 10% more fuel at WOT (this may have been down to a slight exhaust leak) but either way it doesn't get as hot so quickly now.



#29 Matt_182

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 11:29 AM

I came close to those temps at Cadwell if I got held up for too long but it soon dropped back into the 90's with some clean air flow. I was going to add some more naca ducts and turbo ears but both seem rather pointless from reading the comments. 

 

I'll follow this thread closely for updates and maybe opt for a smaller CC rad if that's the consensus. 



#30 Steve.i.am

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 12:20 PM

Mine was having big problems with getting hot quickly. This improved dramatically by fitting an up rated fuel pump, not had the same issues since. I just wonder if some of the cars are running a little lean....

Thats interesting. My car has a Courtnay map which I thought were generally on the rich side, but while the tailpipes are sooty after road driving, they go completely white after track driving.

#31 MartinS

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 12:41 PM

Mine went white on track but mine also had a bigger fuel pump fitted.

An extra thought, mine and I believe others always ran a few degrees hotter after fitting the uprated heater, is yours a standard heater?

 

Martin S



#32 Steve.i.am

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 01:30 PM

Yeah standard heater (mine must be one of the few ones that actually sort of works). And I also put an uprated fuel pump in it when I did the SC.

#33 Bakazan

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 08:20 AM

It always seemed a bit odd to me blocking the flow to the main rad with the cc, especially given the anecdotal evidence that the water in the circuit doesn't get very hot. Didn't someone successfully run a motorbike rad in the right-hand ear saving the weight and hastle of running it to the front?

#34 Firthy

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 08:23 AM

I still have the front v on mine and wonder if removing it would have much impact..... Has anyone noticed a difference by removing it? I filled my crash box out completely when installing the rads so there is no gap there. To Arno's point more air flow is surely the key here

#35 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 28 April 2018 - 09:34 AM

I've never run it tbh

#36 james_ly

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Posted 02 May 2018 - 09:20 AM

How about one of the upgraded triple pass radiators? Eliseparts description claims to have tested on 300bhp VXT?



#37 Rosssco

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Posted 02 May 2018 - 11:01 AM

How about one of the upgraded triple pass radiators? Eliseparts description claims to have tested on 300bhp VXT?

  Might help with heat transfer, but the issue discussed above is more related to the restriction in airflow to the radiator, caused by pre-rads, fans etc. The triple-pass rad would still have to content with these issues..



#38 Jocke_D

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 06:04 AM

It always seemed a bit odd to me blocking the flow to the main rad with the cc, especially given the anecdotal evidence that the water in the circuit doesn't get very hot. Didn't someone successfully run a motorbike rad in the right-hand ear saving the weight and hastle of running it to the front?

 

 

I have rads from a KX500, one in each ear. Works fine with some 250hp with really crappy air flow through them.

Engine never gets hot although IAT gets a bit hot but never noticed any reduction in power :)






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